JustJames

Doesn’t sound too good for me. Most of bigger companies care more about cost and completion than quality or consumer. They will try to produce as much as fast and as lowest cost as possible. It might be good that they in corporate Senko color selection to other type plastic and more widely available but once they lower quality/recipe, the Senko become nothing but dinger or stick-O. Time will tell, I guess but in the meanwhile I’ll stockup especially 3-5” Senko, Fatika and Hula grub.

Maybe you don’t use enough wraps on your connection knot? All braid with multiple strand will show sign at the end line. Depends on how tight it weaves or fused, some braid I can separate strand way above that and most will show sign of frayed after good used. with such small and slick line I will use extra wraps on the knot. I use double uni knot, most of 10lb braid I use 6-8 wraps pull really tight before trim the line. Power Pro super slick and Nanofil will get more wraps since it smoother than other line. Jbraid I don’t like it in small diameter (10-15lb) a lot of tip wrap, harder to deal with wind knot and more buoyancy than other. Never have experience with Smackdown, but I like Sufix 832 and PP original as my go to for smaller braid.

At beginning you will need more brake or even more spool tension. Once you feel comfortable with the reel and know when to use thumb, you can relax on spool tension. Once you know how to tether the line with your thumb when line fluffing you will need less brake. Once you feel like you will never get backlash, start flush and clean your spool bearing (and you might feel like noob again ???) At this point for me, I don’t need a lot of brake and spool tension is loose (set it and forget it) for both day and night. I will not hesitate to add more brake when it needs like in wind or when I cast from tight space.

This guy didn’t cast 100 yds but 100 meters.

Just for a heck, I decided to try the rod casting cd3 1/8oz (no hook) under trailer in the manner you mentioned. Given that I used the wrong reel Curado 70 instead of pixy (magnetic should control better than centrifugal) I still can manage about 25’ on some casts no backlash. It definitely harder when underhand cast than sideways cast. I have to bring the lure all the way to rod tip for smooth loading. You will have to time the right moment for releasing when lure spring back. Rod action, this rod can definitely get the job done with lure lighter than 1/8oz. If you want I will sell mine but 5’6 though. You might already seen this.

If I were you and if I were gonna fish stream I would… im not gonna worry about your reel since I know you have plenty that can handle this type of fishing, but should start with stronger brake and a little bit spool tension at first. Once you feel comfortable, you don’t need any spool tension but keep brake high. choose the rod shorter than 5’ with moderate action. The Tsurinoya ares have slow action I believe. Shorter rod would be easier to load and easier for underhand cast. choose the lure in 1/8oz or even higher as long as it make me load the rod easier. There are plenty of good 1/8oz 1.5” length lure that can catch trout. choose the line, in this case I would go 6lb mono. I know trout is line shy but with moving lure it might not be so bad. Smaller line or braid might cast better but it is also harder to control. From what I see in video, it is all about wrist movement. The most important thing is loading the rod, next would be releasing point. Have you ever do parallel side arm cast where you swirl the lure and cast? It should be the same concept. I know it is easier to type than doing it, but practice make perfect. I can only do backhand cast both hand, underhand skip but to master this gonna be tough as hell. Btw forget all about lob easy cast on BFS, that only work for trout magnet lol. I hope you do well man. I’m really appreciate ppl that use the gear for its potential. I know I haven’t and it is such a waste.

Recently I got hook on anything black color and pumpkin with black and purple flakes (Yamamoto color).

Lol, I’m not sure when I came across this post or maybe one of your video. I’m looking for deep water techniques since I don’t have luck lately with jig and I don’t fish Texas rig a lot. I’ve heard about this rig and also Tokyo rig but didn’t play any attention. Anyway today I have no idea what I’m gonna be using, a lot of grass die down and bass is not concentrated as before. So this morning, I grabbed whatever I can to make of this free rig. I don’t even know the weight just old tear drop weight I have and custom creature bait that I got from someone. After trying Fatika with no bite, switched to free rig. How do I know got the first fish after a few cast. I don’t even remember what retrieve I used. Got a few more bites and end up with another small one. My observation, yes it is similar to Texas rig but the free fall have greater length (you can speed up or just let it slow fall with rod tip. Once it is in shallow I drag just like Texas rig and the rig seem to drag better, the weight and line not get into rock as easy as Texas rig. Long cast and deep water, you gotta be good line watcher and super quick. I got a bite while free falling but couldn’t reel fast enough (d a m n Sol)

I can see why you need those techniques when wading around stream with tree and brushes all around you. I think the closet one that might be able to help you in US is hobie one kanobi. He always post in TT forum and have his own YouTube channel. Rod and lure selection is very important in this situation. I got the same rod he is using in this video Tsurinoya Ares, the whole solid blank. His is 4’7 mine is 5’6. It is a shame, I haven’t never used that rod since I got it. Where I plan to use this rod.

Even though I’m not a fan of using UL rod for bass, but often time I catch them with tiny lure. I don’t use these very often, but when I use them I have those palm size bluegill and 12” crappie in mind and in the area. These are in 1/16oz and 1/8oz but to me 1.5” and 1/8oz is perfect size to target both species. Also Rapala ultralight series is pretty good, I like rippin rap from this series.

Such a shame if you don’t throw weightless plastic ????. I love the feel when Bass bite after popping the lure, way better than waiting for them to take sitting lure.

Depends on what type lure you are gonna be using the most with this setup. I don’t like braid for most anything weightless. I feel I lost contact with the lure more often especially in wind, waves, deep water. When the lure drop it feels like forever and that sometimes confusing with bite. The problem is weightless don’t have enough density to get the right tension. Of course you can feel obvious tab bite but subtle bite is hard. The highest test I can get away with at least 4” Senko is good 10lb braid (Sufix 832, I might have to invest in sinking braid). The braid is good in some condition though, the past month I only use 10 and 15lb braid no leader because I fish in weed, where braid doesn’t sink my lure down to the deep weed. It have power to cut thru weed better and have strength that I can pull the fish out from deep weed. Another problem is abrasion resistance, 10lb braid doesn’t give you a lot at all, if you fish around rock or timber just a small snag you can kiss your lure good bye (leader is really a must for thin braid but the connection knot gonna be a little bit cumbersome). I also use a lot of 6lb Copolymer (Izorline) which is diameter around 7-8lb good FC line. I’m still debating if FC line would get me a lot more benefit compare to Copolymer in that such small diameter, regarding abrasion resistance, sink rate and sensitivity.

What are you trying to achieve? Line visibility, casting distance or lure movement. It can be done as @WRBmentioned but mostly the other way around to add extra abrasion resistance to light line. If you add leader you add another weakest link into the chain. I use light line for casting distance, more natural movement of plastic and also to improve sensitivity. I rather use cheap main line than using leader in this case. Why I bought cheap 6lb 2000 yds spool Izorline line ??

BFS reel is just that another tool. It is only a reel with shallow spool same way as spinning with shallow spool. Ppl just emphasize too much on being/naming BFS. As I drop the last question to those “BFS” it isn’t really anything special at all, just regular bass lure but on light weight category. Yes you can fish with regular size casting reel, but to use shallower spool you worry less about backing and enchant your casting and accuracy. I look at those shallow spool for what I can use with 10-15braid or light line and don’t have to worry about backing. Same way as Shimano have Aldebaran 30MGL and Daiwa have Alphas finesse or pixy 10 years ago, Where these reel target those with finesse fishing in mind. Let get back to line, most mono/Copolymer sold in US are bigger than FC, 4lb Copolymer is about 6lb FC, 8lb is a little bit larger than 10lb FC. I’m staying with 6lb Copolymer as lightest but might try 8lb FC . I try 4lb Copolymer and 6lb FC before but I had problem with line broke when lift fish or hookset at close counter. I only use this size line for Dropshot, weightless worm (finesse/trick) and sometimes Ned Rig (mostly the techniques that use light wire hook or open hook) Remember though if you try to stay with regular size reel (in your case Daiwa 103) and 6lb FC, you might need about 150-200 yds unless you use backing. If you want reel with more efficiency you might have to look for Alphas Finesse custom or Pixy. I used my 105 but I use a lot of braid as backing.

I rely on Rod then Drag never line stretch. That why it is one of important factor to choose the right rod for crappie. Most ppl prefer parabolic bend for crappie because that help preventing tearing paper thin mouth the most. I have to remind myself a lot when using bass fast/XF rod for crappie. I might not be 100% right, but you make me wondering how many pound force it take to make wet 4lb mono stretch. If I do big hookset like jig with 4lb mono, would mono give enough to prevent pulling hook from crappie mouth. BTW I’m not expert but from my experience, more than 50% of my catches, the hook on top roof of crappie mouth where it harder and not tearing as easy as side of the mouth. I learn how to reel to set hook with a light jerk rod tip up 90 degree when crappie fishing. I admitted that I had experience pulling the hook out from crappie mouth when I first started. I’m not sure though if because I tearing it’s mouth or too small. Once I learned and set hook and drag according, I hardly have any problem whatsoever.

Another thing to be considered is up size your rod length especially float fishing for something in 7’6-8’ in light or ML depend on bobber type. Definitely braid or super line would help feeling the bite even using with bobbers. I got almost the same story too, difference is I was the guy catching fish. These two guys fish there for a couple hour and managed 1-2 fish, I got there and caught 4-5 in first 10-15 mins. I handed my setup to one of the guys to try and he caught fish in his first cast. “The right tool for the right job” right? The combination of the success for me is lighter head, longer rod, better line and lower gear ratio. My rod is 7’3 but with handle about 4” shorter than my 6’8 rod. Let me show you one of my video, I swear to god most of the catch on bobbers I didn’t see the bobbers at all. This is why I said distance is separation between crappie and slab for me.

There are many way to achieve further casting distance beside spool size and softer rod. #1 and most ignore fact is casting motion, then how to load the rod, rod length and line size and type. I’m not sure what 2 power and 1 power compare to but my guess is 2 power is ML 1/16oz and 1 power is L 1/32? Im not claim to be an expert but one of my crappie expert friend has open my eyes from his ability of casting. We casting the same weight 1/16 oz crappie jig, he used ML power 7’ rod and 500 size Stella and 4lb mono line. I used 6’6 Light power, 750 size Sahara 8lb braid. He cast at least 30% further than me (more than 100 feet compare to me at 50-60 feet). He showed me the proper way of casting motion (lob easy cast like golf swing) and how to load the rod properly with lure hanging about 2-3’ of rod tip. I felt like noob that day (and just like you I don’t use spinning as often). I always swing with whipping motion and never feel the lure weight on my index finger while casting. Since then I have been practicing, lob easy cast startup, make sure I feel the lure weight loading on my index finger every cast. Now I can cast 1/16oz head on ML power rod further than a guy next to me using L-UL but not to my friend level. I also got 7’3” rod switch the line to Nanofil and I can even cast 1/32oz head even further. Bottom line is before investing in a whole setup, you might be able to add distance by adjusting your casting motion or get not just a softer rod but longer instead. If 2 power is lower end lure rated at 1/16oz, it should be able to load 3 grams lure easily. Most of my reel are 2000 size which balance perfect with 3-3.5oz rod. My rig for both bass and super slab, crucial 6’8 ML 1/16-1/4oz Vanford 2000s.

Just go enjoy fishing kid, I can proof you are wrong in many directions right now.

If you are looking into micro braid. I have tried 4 and 6lb Finns windtamer braid. It is not a bad line, still quite and don’t have that nasty texture of PP. I only use it for awhile before sold the reel. For me distance is still not as good as Nanofil. I also have freshly new 3lb Nanobraid waiting to try out but couldn’t find any reel to fit into it. From crappie community, this line should have almost the same characteristics as Nanofil but a lot stronger especially tensile strength. Might worst a look to. To me when fishing for crappie from shore, distance is everything. I’m willingly to look past some flaws to get distance I want. It is a separation of catching 6-10” crappie to a big 12-14” slab.

Lol and I thought you call yourself a BFS fisherman, you might appreciate the setup. Anyway let look at other that showed no big hole as you stated. Rod is graphite super fast solid tip not fiberglass (bluegill rod), and 4lb Nanofil. My landing ration was about 90% from hundreds of crappie I caught last year. 5% from me tried to flip those 10-12” with my rod. I think it wasn’t sound so bad. This is not tried and true just pure experience.

You are too much technical young man. Doesn’t matter 2lb mono 10lb braid. Anything can tear crappie mouth. Mono stretch yes but it has to has enough tension. In your theory if I tie 4lb line to a 2lb weight. It would stretch out just like those rubber band? Again mono can tear a larger hole in crappie mouth if you just keep pulling the line. In about how you play the fish use the rod bend to help absorb tension. So let me ask you which one would be easier to give, mono line or rod. Fiberglass rod and jerkbait with MF or MM rod? You read too much young man. I caught plenty of bass with Jerkbait on Fast rod using braid, FC and Copolymer. All my crappies rod are graphite some fast some moderate fast all with either Nanofil or 6-8lb braid.

You don’t use just line to fish do you? You think those 10-12” crappie can stretch out mono? I’m not crappie expert only fish for them the past two years but one thing I know for sure doesn’t matter what line you use if you set hook too hard, you would rip those paper thin mouth.

This is really fault, you can rip paper thin mouth with mono easily too. You think those mono that stretch can prevent that? LOL It all about rod, drag and experience.

I never have any problem breakage on hook set 4 and 6lb. It is mostly for my crappie and bluegill rig which mostly a quick light jerk or reel to set hook applied anyway. I agree with tension strength though, I can tug the line when testing knot and broke the line a couple time. I also have 3 on my bass rig which still hold up fine. I like the line for no weight feel. It is essential when I fish Neko rig and the rod tip up almost 90 degree. Even the line have more buoyancy than braid but cut thru water better yield to better sensitivity.

It is super slick line so add more wraps when you tie the knot. If you gonna fish bottom better to have leader since this line have non abrasion resistance. It’s frayed easily so better check quite often. At first the line with coil up bad but will get better after used. The line sink slower than mono and braid so take that into account when you do count down fishing. Last but not least the line is not very friendly in wind. I use uni/double uni knot with 8 wraps and hold up fine.