JustJames

Most of the time Columbia backcast convertible. https://www.columbia.com/mens-pfg-backcast-convertible-pant-1543971.html in cooler month any running long pant should work.

The 70 not gonna be as smooth as K. It might be at first but after heavy use it become geary fast. That why I don’t recommended it. How I know it I have 4 and all developed geary feel. If you don’t mine capacity, also Daiwa Alphas series is super smooth out of the box.

If you want smooth reel, you might have to turn to Daiwa. The new tatula 100 might fit you. If you want to stay with shimano then you have no choice but to get Bantam MGL or 19 Antares.

And yet we don’t have Academy in SoCal. I don’t shop at B&M a lot only when I need to see the items. Just two days ago I went to Dicks to shop for some crappie stuffs, what’s a disappointment, most of the shelf were empty and selections nothing like online.

If you have another reel with no line, you can use that reel to get the line out. A-jay method is fool proof but still you have to know how many yards of such line will fit in your reel, you might get 150yds with 10lb but only 100 or less with 20lb.

I know Catt still using his big game, I have 12lb on reel for topwater and still have 25lb full spoon for my swimbait. As high as my ten fingers and 10 toes around. Wait a minute oh I’m normal.

And how many bass anglers using big game mono?

But you don’t get skin cancer, your pick. I don’t fish in 100 degrees very often but if I do those are a must.

The heavy coil on the bottom of you spool will restrict a good cast. I don’t really care much about IPT so I don’t keep my spool full all the time, but I’ll look for when it get down to heavy coils. If the line is expensive and fixable with line conditioner then I’ll add backing (cheap mono or braid) to the line and keep using it until it get past backing. But if you follow majority here then you should re-spool fresh line every trip/month/quarter/season since one of those fish of a life time might be on the line or Line is cheap. I don’t fish tournament nor try to beat the world record so I don’t care much. If I loose the fish today of course I’ll get mad, sad and frustrated but there will always be tomorrow. That is part of the game and also the fun of fishing AND I AM CHEAP LOL.

Start super early or stay late until sunset (I caught a 5lber last night). Look for grass area if you fish in the morning and give them weightless worm(Texas/wacky) or dropshot. Also topwater would be good. Hat/LS shirt/long pants/gloves/mask, however you like to protect from sun.

I’ll be off next couple days,PM me if you wanna come fish here. There are plenty of bass but to be honest, I fish more crappies than bass these days. Don’t worry about that rich guy, he charge huge fee so he can live among richest in OC. Lol

I’ll add this one to the mix. BTW, finally I got my hand on this one, that why I want 51 to fill the hole.

Do you have CQ51? I just got rid of Aldebaran in favor of Alphas Air. I almost cried all the way to post office.

My daiwa is slim down to just this. The rest are shimanos. They both good, but would be better if you know what reel is best for what techniques and not just I prefer such brand or price.

If the prices are the same, i’d pick scorpion any day (I’m a sucker of black with red trim) hell I even paid more on used scorpion. Warranty is last thing I’m worry about, this is shimano Curado class not cheap class reels of course there are lemons but chances are slim to none. About Japanese class bearing (black/dark rim compare to regular stainless steel bearing, I think all 5 bearing are (not sure about x-ship and main shaft but pinion support is). The free spin of this bearing is about twice as long compare to regular, but you won’t see different in distance unless super light lure. Now Curado 70 is on market for quite sometime and the 200K already more than a year old. I’d think shimano should do some upgrade to 70 size soon. BUT WHO TO TELL? Shimano came out with SLX with MGL spool and about the same MSRP as Curado.

They are the same except bearing 2 on handle and better Japanese made spool bearing.

I have seen a lot of bluegill in my lake big and small. Too bad no grass to be found yet and no wolf pack around just some small bass. I changed to finesse and did pretty good, shakey head and Ned rig, but weightless worm got no love. Another bait I remembered work well at this time last year is light standup jig head with either hula grub or baby brush hog, gotta try that soon.

Daiwa alphas SV105 should fit your bill, to me it is not as comfortable as 70 but close. The body of alphas just a tad wider than 70. The new Tatula 100, I’ve heard base all old Steez flame and will take SV spool from tatula SV (I don’t own this but owned Steez in the past)

#1 I prefer cheap/budget rods/reels. I think it is up to circumstance of each individuals, you buy what you can afford but don’t trash other on opposite end. #2 I need to spool new line every trip/quarter/season. #3 rods for each techniques known to man. #4 bass fisherman is the coolest.

What no googan?

d**n you guys got so many ways to spool the reel lol. Very simple for me, spinning reel just use half rod, run line through first guide, set the bulk spool on table label up and start reeling, for baitcaster, first off take of you shoe and your sock, I use chopstick poke thru filler spool, hold chopstick between your big toe and index toe and start reeling, you can apply pressure with your big toe to the side of spool.

I bought cheap, unpainted jig head 1/32 up to 1/16 in a bulk package from either eBay or amazon. I never have problem hook bending while pulling in crappie or bass 2-3lbs as long as drag set properly. If you want a good, cheap and strong jig head may be try it with #4 sickle hook. BTW, hook file is your friend when buying cheap hook. I also experiment painting my own jig head with Enamel paint or cheap Nail Polis, I think powder coated paint is a little too much since I normally cast and reel.

And they are success again to have all of you talking about them. MORE POWER TO THEM WEATHER YOU LIKE IT OR NOT. And no I’m not tired of them since I don’t watch them that much.

It happened to me but I won’t tell anyone lol.

I don’t spool line base on lb test only but diameter along with type of line (mono, FC or braid) Mono and copolymer nowadays, they listed as one or other so I’ll group them the same. Now let look at mono/copolymer line. Trilene XT where a lot of ppl base on 12lb is 0.15 diameter (listed as mono @ TW), where as Hybrid which have a lot of user here 12lb is 0.13, while Mono from Japan like sunline super natural 12lb is 0.11, FC 12lb also mostly fall between 0.11-0.12. To sum up I spool line with dia in mind, A lot of reels base on Japanese market and not over state like US MARKET for Lb test. If I want 12lb, I’ll look for line with 0.12 dia and you can be curtain that you’ll get as close to 120 yds per line capacity, but if use XT of course you might not get even 100 yds on that reel. NOTE: Daiwa also well know as they usually pessimistic with their line capacity on a lot of reels. Reels manufacturers built a lot of reel size/capacity for user to get advantage of specific need. The bigger size reel, more line capacity, more weight and even more weight when you have full spool of line. The smaller size reel, less line, less weight and make it smaller/more palm able. Im not gonna use 200-300 size reel for Finesse, not use my 70 size reel for big swimbait.