Junger

That's like trying to compare two tools that almost do the same thing but not quite, like a Phillips and Flathead screw driver. My Zillion SV TWS or Tat SV TWS doesn't come close to casting as far as my Curado DC when bombing an appropriate sized lure. I can set up the DC to skip lures on Mode 4 and a tightened tension knob, but it won't skip as far as the SV. I use the SV spools for lighter lures, pitching (when I don't want to thumb the spool on splash down), and skipping, while I use the DC for bombing lures. Both systems are different tools for me that I think do some things better than the other and I love using both.

I love my DC. I love the noise it makes. I set it up so that I have to thumb it when the lure hits the water, but that's how I set up all my baitcasters. But what differentiates it is that, it self-clears overruns on the fly so there's no magnetic or centrifugal brakes to mess around with. I think there's an unrealistic expectation that the DC braking system should also be a tension knob braking mechanism as well.

Size 0 Clips for smaller lures around 1/8-3/8oz like poppers, jerkbaits. Size 1 Clips for lures around 1/2-1oz like medium swimbaits, chatterbaits Size 0.0 Swivels for small inline spinners like Mepps. Size 1.2 Swivels for larger lures up to about 1oz like whopper ploppers, Spro BBZ Rats

I use both the clips and ball bearing swivel/clips, and have not had any problems with them. They do get a little tricky with lures with a cupped face (poppers), or lures with a plastic lip where the eyelet is inset. Hard to explain, but the way you have to curl the clip on can sometimes make it a little tricky. Duo-lock clips have the advantage in those situations.

Personally, I can't tell a difference in sensitivity between lead and tungsten. My bottom contact rod is an Orochi EMTF with SniperFC and I can feel hits on slack line using both types of weights.

My open water/light cover jig rod is a Zillion 7' M/XF, and I think it has a very soft tip. It does not take a lot of force to get that tip to bend, but when it does it is a true XF bend. It's rated for 3/8 to 1 1/2oz, but I think the upper end is really pushing it's limits.

Yep, that's my go to underspin open hook jighead, I linked it in the second post.

A lot of these underspins look nice, but I wish they would disclose the hook size more often. I've been in the OP's situation where I've tried to match a jighead to a 2.8" Keitech or 3" Fat Albert grub, and a lot of the underspin jig heads turn out to be 3/0, which are too big for me for those sizes.

I think the term "soft" gets used in a variety of meanings. Just to clarify, you like the fast flex on both rods. But it takes less force on the Lightning rod to get to the backbone. So if you put a 4oz weight on both rods and are holding them horizontally, the Lightning Rod's tip would bend a little further toward the ground than the Mojo, even though both are bending in the upper 1/3 of the rod, is that what you mean by soft, rather than a rod that has a different flex (moderate vs fast)?

Coolbaits Down Under: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Coolbaits_Lure_Co_The_Down_Under_Underspin/descpage-CLCTDU.html I like the 3/8oz 2/0 hook for an open hook. For a closed hook, I like the Owner Flashy Swimmer: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Owner_Flashy_Swimmer_with_CPS_2pk/descpage-OFSCP.html 3/0 will work with the 3.8", but the 1/0 works better for 3.3" and under.

20% off $25+, max $50 off with code JUMPINTOFALL The $20 off $100 coupon is by invitation only, so if you don't see the banner you maybe don't qualify. https://pages.ebay.com/promo/2018/0906/68008.html?_trkparms=%26clkid%3D6649946956160214836

Nice - stackable with the $20 off $100 coupon when paying with a credit card or debit card. Just picked up a Zillion 721MHRB for $140 with these two coupons.

I fished my CT Type-R very hard in the weeds this summer, and one day while frogging, I lost a fish on a hook set and thought the line snapped. Well it actually didn't break off and the spool slipped while engaged. The spool kept slipping even while the drag was set all the way down and I sent it back to Daiwa for repair. On the return invoice (free under warranty), the part they replaced was the Spool Assembly which is about 8 things. Part Z02-1543.

I know I'm crazy, but I keep a detailed spreadsheet of all my tackle, and I keep a record of the lure weight/size. I usually check the packaging, the website description, and mfg'ers website. I've even emailed them sometimes for more specific information. I also keep a small digital pocket scale that's somewhat accurate if I can't find any info on the lure at all.

I hate you, yet like you at the same time....Never knew about this site and just bought $35 worth of plastics and miscellaneous things I probably don't need. They do have some good prices on Yamamoto grubs, and Z-man stuff.

The flex is XF, but the medium power should give it a nice soft tip for light moving baits. I have the 6'10 Tatula MH/F and it is not as soft, and takes quite a bit more force to bend it to the backbone.

I have the OG Zillion version of this rod and love it for my light underspins, or weightless plastic swimbaits. Definitely suitable for light moving jigs such as the war eagle finesse spinnerbaits or booyah pond magics. 3/8oz chatter/spinnerbaits with a trailer seem to push it's limits, and I move to a 7'3 MH/F for those.

Yeah, interesting they have it labeled as a spinnerbait/bladed jig rod. Definitely way too heavy for my liking, but the heaviest spinner/chatterbaits I throw are 1/2oz plus the trailers which usually are under 1.5oz total that I throw on a 7'3 MH/F Zillion. So you do have the 7'2 MH/RB-G? I'm highly curious about the flex in the 7'2 MH/RB vs the MH/RB-G and if it really is just a tad faster and crisp. I love my ZIL721MHRB-G, but it's a good 2+oz heavier than my other rods, and to me it's just a bit tip heavy, but that's OK because it's always pointed down when I'm cranking with it.

I have the Zillion 7'4 H/R and I use it for pitching. It takes a lot of force to get the tip to bend down. I have the Zillion 7'2" MH/RG and always wondered if the glass version took less force to get the moderate bend than graphite version, as I'm interested in the 7'2 MH/R for moving single hook presentations...the MH/RG seems a little too moderate for my liking for that purpose. I'm wonder what the Tatula 7'4 H/F-G weighs...the ZIL721MHRB-G is definitely heavier than the other rods, by at least 2oz's and I don't think flinging heavy jigs/baits on a 7oz rod would be that enjoyable.

Thanks all, it seems like it's more of trigger finger. I'll try those hand exercises, as well as some Advil and hopefully it'll go away soon.

This is my first year of consistent fishing. I go out at least once a week for 3-4 hours, if not more which started in late April to now. Just the last few weeks, I've noticed waking up with my left hand (my main hand that I hold a baitcaster) kind of stiff. The way I describe it is, the range of motion in my fingers is "clicky" compared to my right hand. With my right hand, I can open and close my fingers with a steady motion with no resistance from the joints or muscles. With my left hand, when I try the same motion, my finger knuckles seem to be very stiff, and it's like they click on or off (open or close)...it is not a steady motion. It's not painful, but it's definitely noticeable. It goes away after I start pounding my keyboard with emails and get the knuckles moving, but I've never experienced anything like this even after years of video games in my teens, twenties, and having worked on a keyboard for 20+ years. Anyone else experience anything like this?

I have the 7' H/F for throwing horny toads/soft plastic frogs. I'd say it's more like a MH+ than a Heavy compared to my other Heavy rods (Tatula/Zillion/Powell). I've read other people also think they're a little less powered than the stated rating too. The reel seat is probably the only drawback, it's just plastic but not flimsy and to me that's the only thing glaring about the rod. For $54, I think it's a great rod. It's lightweight, balanced, and the sensitivity is more than adequate for moving lures.

Hit up Widewater from 5PM to sunset on Saturday. When I first got there, I saw a lot of emergency vehicles and saw 2 rescue boats in the parking lot across from Angler's. I asked one guy if they were launching, and he replied "not yet". So I'm not sure if they were there as a pre-emptive measure, or if there was a rescue or recovery underway. Anyways, got a small dink at a laydown by the water overflow tower on a Cowboy. No other bites all along the bank before the bridge. The water level was even lower than the last time I went out there. I saw large schools of fish swimming around, wasn't sure what they were, but definitely not bluegill or bass fry. Either white perch or shad, but I didn't think there were any shad in here. Well, walking up further towards the lock, I saw this...some kind of shad. Towards the lock, I saw about a dozen separate schools pushing water and figured there must be some predators following or waiting for them and switched to a white chatterbait. Still no hits and when the sun started to set, I switched to a popper and ended up with a decent 2.4lb LMB. I find Widewater pretty frustrating this time of year and at this water level. I'm thinking the bass are along the far walls, which is where I caught this one on the popper. But there are so few access points from the main trail. I may have to try Berma Road on the other side, but access there looks real sketchy too.

What do you want to catch, the bass, trout or BG?

Hmm, wonder why the handle side is so big and chunky then compared to Daiwa. Still, the palm side for me is flat/curved enough that it palms similar to a Daiwa Tatula frame, although the handle sticks out a little more which has no impact to me.