5/0

Was strolling around Google Maps the other day and saw this body of water. It reminded me of a conversation I had with a boater while traveling to the Delta for a club tourney some time ago. He said he used to fish there many years ago and was successful in catching bass. For those who have been there recently is it worth a try or a waste of time?

This is what I do. Curious as to why a product sold as “leader material” would be better? Are there properties in leader material that make it superior to say a mono or FC line of the same brand? Thanks….Joe

?It’s the flash!

Good one! Gotta be an old fart to reference that. He was the original Elton John.

Got one too. I fell afoul of the breech last year. Luckily my bank caught it and we resolved the issue. Good idea to change your password and not use debit for purchases.

My guess would be that by cutting back the top leaves a less bulky profile and provides something different visually. The extreme version of this is the puffball jig.

I’m not nearly as experienced as many on here, but I don’t think amount of activity can be determined beforehand. If there are no fish that is a mute point. If there are fish or the presence of prey than you’ve got to present bait or baits to find out their activity level. They may ignore one lure, but gobble up another, or they may ignore everything thrown at them. Ignore may not be the right term because I believe a bass is fully aware of what’s in it’s surroundings. Gotta figure out what floats their boat.

Would that be the CBMF?

Yes. All my spinning set ups are braid to leader. The main factor for that is manageability. Also there is a cost factor, I don’t have to switch out line as often. However I haven’t thrown crankbaits on them. Mainly shakys, nekos, wacky rigs.

A while back I watched an older video from Tacticalbassin where Matt Allen used braid on all rods. Fully understand the downsizing of rod action and drag mods needed when doing this. But how do you compensate for the buoyancy that comes with braided line which, to me anyway, would hinder getting the proper depths on moving baits?

They are so annoying.

Me too! It’s so much easier to tie on a boat. My fingers are to chunky for most knots. wish I hadt the hand dexterity of Hank Parker and Shaw Grigsby. Going to start practicing the SD Jam though.

So for you Tom there are times when a large part of the body of the trailer, a craw for example, extends past the skirt.

All my jig skirts are trimmed to approximately the same length, 1/2 inch below hook bend. I adjust trailer length the same way others have mentioned above to allow free movement of the claws/legs. If using something like a swim bait or fluke trailer on a chatterbait or swim jig I’ll adjust the length of the trailer so that the bend of the tail is at the end of the skirt. Again to allow free movement. This is probably debatable and I’d welcome any responses as too why.

That’s a good tip, will have to try it! One thing I’ve found is that the knot is pretty forgiving if you don’t always interlace the wraps going back. I always try to do this, but not always easy on the water.

Use this exclusively for braid to flouro on spinning, 7 up 7 back. Have not tried it on heavy braid to heavy leader yet though. Can you reduce wraps with the heavier lines and still have good knot strength?

Do you guys try to match diameters or use pound test when selecting a leader? The reason I ask is that I have a H/F casting setup spooled with 65# braid and debating what size leader to use for moderate to heavy cover (tules, grass, submerged brush) fishing jigs and TRigs. Our club does not fish waters with this type of cover very often. Would a 12# leader be too light for this?

On spinning with 10-20 lb braid I will use 6-8 lb flouro leader. The leader length I use varies. I will start with 20 ft length. This will bring the knot onto the spool which many do not recommend. If it works, great; if not I shorten the leader to 5 ft. The problems I’ve encountered are not the knot going through the guides, but the tag end of the flouro hanging up on the braid on the spool. If I can trim this close enough it works fine at 20 ft.

This is soooo right! Except anytime I try it, that little bird whispers…hold on you may just need this.

Yes sir! Can’t find it? Solution: Give up and buy 3-4 more and then you’ll find it.

Looking for some #2-#3 split rings for making up some Jika rigs. The hooks get caught up in the narrow gap on the Owner & Spro. In searching past posts this should not be a problem, but having the hook swing freely would seem to be better. Would the Decoys be narrower? I use Gamy EWG hooks. The pre made Jikas with solid rings are nice, but at 6.00+ for 2 are a little steep! The Gamy hooks sold with the solid ring looked nice, but come in only 2/0 & 4/0. Having a 3/0 option would be nice. Any help would be appreciated. Joe

Actually worked for a company that that used GMT as the every day clock.

Thanks! Bought them to add skirts, debating on whether to carry them plain as an alternative.

It’s probably an unusual question, but are arky jig heads without a skirt used with craws, creatures, or swim baits? Or would a TRig, Swing head, or Jika rig be a better option? Thanks….Joe