5/0

They are Spro Power swivels. I will be jigging the spoons, so if I went to ball bearing swivels I would be okay with the Owner snaps?

Yes. And the snaps are Owner Welded Quick Snaps #1 rated at 33 pounds. Thanks. No weeds where they will be fished.

I’m thinking of doing double duty with my Dobyns 705 CBMF for cranks and spoons. The clip would make switching out between the two baits faster. Spoons would be 3/4 oz. and have barrel swivels attached. Is there a downside to the clip to swivel attachment? Thanks….Joe

Have you looked at Roboworm Sculpins, Alive Shad, or Jackall X-Tail? Don’t know if Robo makes the Sculpin anymore though.

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Thanks, I’ll give it a try.

I have used the Falcon Lake. Yes, it is more red than orange. As you mentioned, it may be close enough. Not directly related to this topic. I have noticed that the SK baits are not uniform throughout the package, they can vary between individual baits. Have you experienced this?

I’ve always used the Senko but would like to try the Dinger due to numerous posts about their better durability/cost. I’m hoping for some input on crossover colors between the two brands. In the Senko, colors 221, 301, & 956 have been good to me. With Dingers would Bourbon Berry, Watermelon Candy, & Camo come close to the Senko colors respectively? Joe

Hey All, I’m replacing hooks on Kastmaster, P-Line, and Hopkins spoons. All are 3/4 oz and the stock trebles appear to be size 4 and look small to me. Should I be stepping up to size 2 on these? Also, round bend or EWG? Thanks….Joe

Anyone out there that use these? I got the tool and the 7mm size only for Senkos, but not any other sizes. What sizes would fit Roboworm, both the Regular and Fat? Thanks….Joe

It is a glass rod. Kinda confused about the ratings on Dobyns rods though. It’s rated at 1/4-1 oz lure and 8-20# test. Also, MH/Mod-F.

Will this rod work well with 3/8-5/8 oz jitterbugs. Since jitterbugs have trebles I would think it would work. Is this assumption right or should I be fishing them on a MH/F? Joe

Sounds like a good program.

Hey MN Fisher and other Minnesotans. Just saw a story on our local news regarding hand removal of grasses/weeds from Minnetonka. Out here it’s usually done with herbicides and this appears to be a much safer way for both wildlife and humans. Has it been effective? Is it a lake wide operation or is it restricted to home owners and businesses on the lake who pay private individuals to do the work? Joe

That is something that I would guess is not done much out here. Looks good!

I do make sure the claws are free to move. It was the legs that I was thinking about. I have used hula grubs as trailers to give the jig a fuller skirt profile.

Can the legs on craw baits used as jig trailers interfere with the action of the skirt? I’ve almost always used Rage Craws or GYCB grubs with no legs for my jig trailers. Recently picked up some XZone craws and Paca Slims to try as well. Should the legs be removed on these baits when used as a jig trailer? My fingers are ?. Thanks…..Joe

Good video! The point I picked up on was where the hook exits the tube and how to determine that point. As Glenn would say, that is key! Don’t recall any other videos I’ve watched mentioning this. Another point was that you need larger than 3 1/2” baits.

Your answer to the OP’s question hits on something I’ve battled with for sometime, the sweet spot for a rod’s weight rating. Not meaning to hijack the thread, just looking for some clarification, and it will also help with the original question. My heaviest rod tops out at 1 1/4 oz. A 3/8-1/2 oz jig with hook, skirt, and craw trailer will exceed the rod’s sweet spot. The 1/2 oz being at the rod’s upper limit. So I would need to look for a rod with an upper rating of 2 oz? Wouldn’t that be in flipping stick territory and would it load up enough to cast these jigs without problem? Thanks…Joe

Don’t have any experience with this rig and want to put several together to try. The pencil/cylindrical weights, especially in the larger sizes, give the rig more of a Tokyo rig look. I’ve not used that rig either, just an observation. Would a tear drop shaped casting weight be a better option on the jika? Joe

Was fishing a popper on a spinning outfit. A really nice spot blew up on it. I’m reeling him in and my reel freezes, panic time. So I’m watching the fish do various acrobatics and horsing the reel trying to get it to crank. I eventually look down and see that the bail had caught in another rod tip, snapped it off and was jammed in the reel. I got it out and was able to land the fish, close to 4 lbs. Luckily the broken rod was a 20 yr old Daiwa and not my brand new Champion XP laying right next to it!

Those old Bill Dance videos are so hilarious! I liked the one where he snagged a tree branch. While poking at it with his rod tip a snake fell into his boat.

Years ago our deer club had a very small pond with 4-5 one pound bass in it. It was pretty clear. We’d catch mice when cleaning out our cabins and toss them into it. They’d last about the time it would take to snap your fingers.

Wow! Gotta be an omen!

T-Rigged worms & creatures. Usually 3/16 bullet weight pegged. Pitching to open water is not necessarily a problem. It’s when I’m pitching to flooded bushes that the problem arises. You’ve got to hit something before the lure hits the water below. Like they were doing on Lake Ray Roberts if you saw it. Should I be stopping the pitch above the cover and then let it drop through? I’m not worried about getting hung up, that comes with the territory when throwing into it. But I would like to be able to get to that point without the overrun.