Bass Rutten

I never take what's not mine, someone may be back for it real soon.

Megabass diamante Heddon super spook Evergreen jt 115 Evergreen sb 105 Major craft benkei 6’9” mh 15lb p line copoly

Not sure if they're on the black list but omnia had a 20% going the other day, picked up a new tatula sv for $160

Anyone who’s competed knows there’s “levels” to any competitive sport, it’s what defines competition itself.

I've owned the tat and currently use the daiwa kage 7'0" m/f, it's superb for neko and shakey head fishing, it feels lighter and more sensitive than the tats (I've heard it's the same blank but unfinished), it's also rated 1/8-3/4oz, medium/fast is a very accurate power/action rating on both imo and am suspect of it's 3/4oz top end rating, like most rods it's top end weight can be done but it's pushing it, I've tossed lucky craft pointer 100's with it (5/8oz) and would not go heavier. I have a year old one in mint condition I'm about to list for sale as I'm leveling up to expride or possibly loomis real soon here. Pm me if interested.

Very curious, would you mind sharing the 5 techniques?

Strike King 3x elaztech 4 inch worm in watermelon/red. Crazy durable, I've fished entire months with one worm. Just started using the z-drop myself, impressed so far, seems a little more durable than average and I like the almost neutral buoyancy, should make a good compliment to the high floating elaztech.

My two cents... My ds setup is a shimano expride 610ml paired with a jdm stradic c2000s. It sticks to 'em like superglue, very high landing rate, super light, balanced, sensitive, it's an absolute dream to fish all day. Not quite high-end but you'd be hard pressed to put together a better $400 combo.

The older 18 lt ballistic has aluminum main gear, the new 21 mq lt ballistic has zinc main gear, which is what I own and should have clarified in my previous comment about it being the equivelant to the caldia.

I stand corrected.

I don’t know, did someone say it was? Is it not the equivalent? Both the mq ballistics and lt caldia have zinc main gear.

It was a question not a statement.

So does that mean the ballistic is trash? Could the improved overall design features make up for an inferior gear material?

I’m no machinist or metallurgist but I have read that zinc is tougher and more durable than aluminum and a better material for gears, just about on par with brass (a zinc/copper alloy) with its biggest downside being weight. It’s got a stigma because it’s used on lower end reels mainly for manufacturing efficiency and lower production costs. Also there are different grades of zinc, of course they claim it’s one of the better ones, who really knows? Between the huge gear size, magseal, and digigear technology I’m ok with the zinc and a professional servicing every few years. I don’t know the details on the zaion material.

It kind of replicates centrifugal brakes in my mind, very controlled up front and loosening up mid to late cast, previous sv's I've owned felt overbraked robbing you of distance, understandable so as they weren't designed for that. Boost sv seems to give you the best of both worlds, I find it a good skipper myself but I've read opinions to the contrary, then with a few clicks of the brake it'll distance cast effortlessly, mine's on a mh/f rod used mostly for skipping and roll casting/pitching plastics.

Got it, I misunderstood

Ok, I must be missing something, this indicates you didn’t know what it is (not trying to be argumentative). Anyway good luck with the reel, I’m sure it’ll be up to the task, I recently picked up a standard tat 100 for my chatter rod, very satisfied with it.

The “zero adjust” is a cast control just like any other reel in the past quarter century, it’s not some special mechanism, it’s just marketing speak for setting it to where the spool has a tiny bit of side to side play.

For anyone curious about the caldia it’s the jdm equivalent of the ballistic, absolutely love mine, another great choice.

You could buy a a $2000 omega watch to keep track of time, or a $40 timex which achieves the same task but... the omega looks sleeker, feels nicer, is more durable, more accurate etc The way I see it what gives things worth is the value that you place upon it, not necessarily how much was paid for it, that makes an objects value subjective therefore only you can answer that question. Hope that doesn't come off as evasive or snarky. That said a panfish rod is not worth $400 to me as I fish for them only about 3 months of the year. I definitely plan to grab a few, would've like to seen a 6'9" light in this series.

JDM 19 shimano stradic fl's are silky smooth, built like tanks and under $150, nothing beats them at that price.

Just got an email from St. Croix about a new mid priced avid panfish series, hallelujah! Same price point and blank material as the victories, always wanted a panfish series with better graphite than the scII and that elite at close $400 is a hard pill to swallow for panfish. https://stcroixrods.com/products/avid-series-panfish?utm_source=traditions&utm_medium=pr&utm_campaign=avid+panfish_pr&utm_id=avid+panfish_pr&utm_term=2022-08-01&mc_cid=43355308c3&mc_eid=033570e190

I can only speak to casting gear as I use braid on spinning gear but I've found YZH to be consistent, reliable, and cheap, a hard combination to find for anything these days. I use it for leaders on both of my spinning setups though, and I have 10lb on one of my mh casting outfits I've been using for soft jerkbaits and jigs. Fluoro at times seems to transmit vibrations a touch better than copoly but it's not an omg night and day difference, it's close enough that I'm not ruling out placebo effect either. I have no issue getting or detecting bites which imo is 90% angler and 10% gear anyhow. I also use 15lb on one of my swimbait rods.

Found the problem lol, ime that area probably isn't holding many fish, have you noticed weeds thinning out recently? If so you might be on a lake they recently poisoned, natural lake?