Reel

I make my own from components I don't pour. Usually 1/2 oz in white and chartreuse for smallmouth mainly ( works for largemouth too). I use willows in 4 1/2 and 3 1/2 size ( white and chart.) Skirts are hand tied and layered. They are glued on so they last till the last strand. R eyes are also tied with fly tying thread so they don't bend as much. Loose a bit of vibration but it's OK. Catch pike and walleyes on them so tying helps. Don't use trailers. For smaller baits ( 3/8 oz) for very shallow water on flats, I use a commercialy made Swagy in a kind of bluish color (natural bait).

For me, Expride 7' 2'' ML

At lunch and dinner 3/4 of my plate is green.

I have the same setting, but with an Helix 7 gen 2. The position of the transducer is really important. If it's mounted outside on an aluminium boat transom, it's best to have a metal mount on a composite plate that gives you the possibility of adjustment. The plate also places the transducer a half an inch from the transom and that helps with the reading. For reading at speed, the sensitivity must be set low. If it was working well before, maybe you hit the transducer and it's position has changed. A slight angle at the back is best. I can read the bottom with no problem at over 50 mph.

For me jig and worm rods are not the same. I've had many jig rods, from NRX to very basic rods. My favorite right now and for the last couple of years has been the Zodias 7' 3'' H - Fast.

In general, gobies do not make for a good jerkbait bite. They stay close to bottom. In the connected waterways (St- Lawrence) section I fish, perch are very abondant and, surprisingly, juvenile stripers have been very present the last years.

Another trick you can use with soft jerkbaits (flukes ) or 4 inch senko type lures (wacky or not) is to cast them way ahead of cruising fish. Let them rest on the bottom without moving them and start a slow retrieve when the bass are close enough. Fish don't expect something not natural rising from the bottom.

I fish the same waters you do and I have found over the years that using a heavy leader or a metal leader is not the solution. These types of heavy line take away a lot of natural lure action and you end up catching less because you want to save lures. When there are a lot of pikes, I use longer surface lures with mono and that helps. The same with lures like spinnerbaits and chatterbaits. Using a trailer with a trailer hook helps entice the fish to strike further back. The problem is with small pike that have teeth that are close together. When the line lodges between those razor sharp teeth, the line diameter does not help much. For larger pike, there is more room between the teeth and you are better off with regular diameter line. You can always use a short piece of metal leader line, without snap and swivel, that is knotable, but you will loose some lure action and it sinks. This is available in Fly Shops. I have learned to put up with it.

I fish for that type of smallmouth all the time. Making long cast is a good idea. There are lures that will be better than others. A crankbait is not one of them. Wacky senkos work on the first cast. Spy baits are one of the best approach. You can also use light marabou jigs or soft jerkbaits.

I never go heavier than 1/8 oz.

I don't use them but I took a look at this spinnerbait and it seems well built. It' a little bit heavy on the wire ( 0.040 ) but that makes it last longer. I make my own ( for the last 30 years) and I like 0.035. You can help with longivity if you wrap the R bend with fly tying thread ( braided line) or put a small split ring over it.

Yes, one of the solutions is a baitcaster with no line guide. You can remove the line guide of a regular baitcaster or use a saltwater jigging reel like a Talica 8 or a Thorium 14. Those last ones are very durable and well suited for salmon.

The store is a good suggestion, but a rod can be very different when there is a reel on it and it's got a jig tied to the line. I like around 7' 4'', MH or H depending on the rod

I don't think these fish were on beds. I have seen the same thing here where I fish a little bit north of you. I think these fish use old beds because they seem to draw minnows. They are a kind of ambush point for bass at this time. So all the techniques used for bedding bass don't necessarely apply. They will not take a bait in their mouth to take it out of the nest. They are more roamers. Smaller lures that have mouvements when sitting still usually work. I use a lot of 4 inch senko type baits in light colors or small flukes (nose hooked).

The gambler is kinda special because it has a crease in the middle that helps with the tail mouvement but on a more conventional bait, like a Rhythm Wave, a long hook takes away some of the mouvement.

It still exist and I used it a couple of years ago. I have found better products now with the same advantage. I now use metered line that is thinner for the same pound test What are the advantages ? Well you can see it. When you are wade/drift fishing with other fishermen that are a couple of feet from you on either side, you want to know where your line is.

If you had the choice between fishing two bays, one where you could see (not during the spawn) 5 or 6 big bass swimming around or one where you could not see any fish, where would you go first ?

I've got that rod (901) and use it for shad and smallmouth. There is no problem with large fish. It's made to cast 1/16 once lures. I can cast a small shad darts ( between 1/16 and 1/8) a long distance but it's a compact bait. For smallmouth I use it for marabout jigs (1/8 oz). Right now, if you buy new, you will get the NRX901 + that is a little stiffer than the original 901.

Changing over to what the other person is using is the biggest compliment you can make. It means that person has figured it out. If my partner does it or I do it, I don't see any problem, quite the contrary.

I can spell it out if you like: Shimano Mastiff Fluorocarbon Fishing Line Might not be the best of names but, maybe the best of line !!

I like Mastiff.

What you are asking is : Does a guy that builds rods go to the store to buy a rod because it's easier than making his own and it also gives him time to build rods for others and make a lot of money ? No, most rod builders start because they do not find the exact type of rod they want and when they get good at it, their friends ask them to build a rod for them.

When the cows a lying down it's a very bad sign !!!

I can also skip senkos under docks using spinning tackle. I use a large series reel like a series 4000 Vanford because I get better distance and can use a heavier rod and heavier line. This year, I also started using baicasting gear with scat type lures that are the easiest to skip. I use a regular MH 7 foot rod (Zodias) with a Curado MGL.

If I remember correctly, co-polys were invented before fluoro. And yes, you can use anything you want but braid gives you a formidable advantage when you are fishing with a floating frog.