bulldog1935

The spool matches '15 Stradic = FK https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product-list/643 Hedgehog, Plat may have better prices, but you have to find it through their parts schematics. IMPORTANT NOTE - in JDM, your spool is actually the C3000, S-23 stroke. JDM model for your reel is 2500HG (Not C2500) @The Baron HERE - found an ebay listing...

the trick is finding one without 40 years of old grease inside. Or, buy an old one and completely rebuild it - not difficult on these reels - plan on buying a pinion gear, and you can get parts Many places - e-replacement parts, Dad's Ole Tackle, Mike's (Canada). If you want an heirloom quality reel that's raced out and ready to fish, might look through inventory at Don Iovino http://www.iovino.com/index.php/reels.html?dir=asc&order=price Might also search some of the parts suppliers for rebuilt reels ready to fish. Put a WTB ad in the BR Classifieds? Very cost effective - a new round Ambassadeur, Millionaire, or Lew's. (not as classy as an old one)

75-yd groups, and the sight-view through my favorite globe insert

In Florida's case, it's because of aquarium-industry breeding ponds, and hurricanes spreading them out. From s. Texas monsoon floods, I've seen monster koi in the Guadalupe tailwater. In Louisiana, they curse feral Rio Grande cichlids for taking over the bayous. Of course, we love them in Texas, where they belong - serious fly rod fare.

@TnRiver46 You hear snook slurping around dark boat docks at night. Our standing winter Arroyo dock-fishing trip, broke off my lifetime snook. Saw it gliding by our lighted dock right under my feet, to the next dark dock - it was well over 30" and was a shocking dark mass as it glided by. This was about 4 am, and I had just got up from a cat nap - no coffee yet. He slurped at the next dock, I tossed a blue SS3 over there, he nabbed it, and the rod was bent deep for a short run. Probably cut my line on his gill plates, but one of those disappointments you never forget. So far everyone on our Arroyo trips has landed snook, here's my dad with a 17" - he hates releasing fish after a good fight - his 90 b/d trip. He looks 10-years younger holding his limit of specs after the next night.

haven't had one like that for 3 years, and it was because of a one-turn line wrap on the rod tip. Had a back-up reel to swap, and finished a great morning.

again, a bass-fishing answer, and the thread below still applies for shore fishing - fresh or salt - I hope this thing is on... or inshore drift fishing, including working baits at distance

again, '18 Stella, '19 Stradic, '19 Vanquish, '20 Twin Power, '20 Vanford, '20 Exscence - all interchange spools (all parts), and all have the same models and spool capacities - the trick is identifying your USM reel in the 2-1/2-times-as-many JDM model list. This list happens to be Stradic, but the only thing that changes for different reel series is the weight (and BB/bushings). Here's the JP Fishing Tackle News article on Vanford If you notice JDM doesn't have a Vanford 500, it's because they have the Soare. The new Vanford 500 is USM-only, and is the same short-stroke locomotive-drive Soare 500 with a facelift.

They're called steelhead rods (and spinning noodle rods) in the US. Here are Lamiglas G1000 casting rods in lengths and weights as I showed above. You can make your own with a fly rod blank. Only in the past few years, the Japanese have entered light game shore-fishing using baitcast reels, though, they've been shore fishing light game for centuries, and have been refining these long rods for decades (though, they're generally the same progressive tapers as fly rods). There are also long noodle rods - Okuma makes some, though spinning rods. You're kind of hung up on fresh/saltwater thing - the rod and technique doesn't care about the salinity. I hope this thing is on. Okuma SST offers these long casting rods, 10'6" to 12'4", though only the 10'6" has a lure weight range you might use. These aren't as versatile or as good as the Lami rods, and nothing at all like the Japan light game rods.

There are some really nice steelhead rods in range of weights and lines around 8-10' Two 8'6" , ML and MH As a rule, longer baitcasters are a lot easier to cast than shorter rods. I have this 8'2" Japan light game rod that's a joy and Very Easy to cast and fish - even 2-3 g out to 120' (with the right reel) This is the longest Yamaga Blanks offers, but I believe there are some in Japan to 9'4". You can also build a wide-lure-weight-range bait rod yourself using a long fly rod blank (5-8-wt). A friend on FFR forum and fellow Texan had a 10' 5wt fly rod blank, asking what to do with it, because he didn't want a fly rod that long. I mentioned a light game bait rod for shore fishing - he built it and loves it. @SergeiD If you want to cast that 5 g, though, you'll do better with a reel that's capable of casting even less. Daiwa SV brake system handles UL to heavy extremely well. You're going to find a lot more rods available in spinning that will fit this niche - long light game baitcast rods are something new. PLAT/Fishing Tackle Store-Fishing Equipment/Catalog-Rod-LIGHT GAME-en You're also going to get bass-fishing-specific answers on this forum, and your question isn't exactly bass fishing, it's shore fishing.

owie - you can't give an edge to a striper - probably the smartest fish we chase, and one of you will be unconscious at the end of the fight.

Ande created an offshore market for themselves, since their line is ready to go for IGFA records - a piece of line for proof test has to be submitted with an application for IGFA class record. The Japanese do this, btw - they report their lines as Max breaking strength.

@12poundbass I could beat my dad at 13, but 14, I grew 3 inches that summer and lost my coordination. ps - my dad played basketball at Memphis St before that meant anything.

Kind of the whole purpose of the trough cone lip is to prevent line hourglassing at the front of the spool. The nice thing about shallow slant spools, you don't have to fill them to get good casting. With perfect application and shimming - here, the shallow #2 Tica spool with 270 m PE#1.5 X-braid - you can fill all the way to the rim, if you're getting hour-glassing, quit when the spooled line makes the rim height at either end of the spool. I always use the line keeper trough as a guide - when I can run my fingernail from the keeper trough over the line and not feel a drop or ridge, the spool is full. Again, with hourglassing, have to watch line height front and rear, and may not make it to this height Spool shimming is important, also. If your line is not laying evenly over the spool stroke from the beginning, back it up and work on spool shimming. Otherwise, it will get ugly before you fill the spool. Tica spol shims are da bomb - they don't compress like dinky Shimano shims. Unfortunately, they don't come with the reel, so you have to call TicaAmerica and order the part - cheap enough, and worth the effort.

Just about any long-stroke spinning reel will lay line that way. If anyone hasn't seen that Tica built the Daiwa reel in his photo, must be blind... Slant spools - they're made for casting tournaments as opposed to fishing. Straight spools will give you more reliable line management - that said, I get pretty good results on my Tica #2 spool, and haven't experienced a wind knot. You really need perfect line lay on slant spool, and you're not going to get that with a deep spool that takes line stacking to fill - if you look closely at my Tica Libra with the blue Sufix braid on top, it shows a bit of hourglass - you just can't avoid that when using stacked braid on deep spools, and would be especially bad for wind knots in a slant spool. Here's the Tica Libra again - note even Shimano gets hour-glassing when stacking lines on a deep spool. The Shimano is loaded with (probably Varivas) X-braid from Florida Fishing Products - 30 lb, and has backing with thicker 30-lb Seaguar braid.

I have the same type surf reel, made by Tica, and I have spool #2 and #4 below. Deep spool capacity on 76-mm diameter x 35-mm (or 45-mm) stroke spool is outrageous - the only time you would ever want the deep spool is offshore with big game braid - or maybe mono in the surf. Even mono, most people fish 15-17-lb in the surf. The 2nd most shallow spool, #2, holds 300 yds 36-lb X-braid, 0.18 mm The #4 spool holds 300 yds 46-lb X-braid, 0.23 mm The #1.5 below would be the best spool to load your 0.11-mm braid. This is the empty #2 spool 300 yds 0.18 mm 36-lb X-braid I fish this on 11' Tsunami Air Wave Elite 1102H great taper and light-in-hand staggered-ferrule surf rod - the tip section is 7' Tica, btw, builds all those $300+ Daiwa surf reels, and many parts interchange. Definitely not a rig for casting lures in the surf, but great for 2-oz spider weights and cut-bait or gulp pieces for bull redfish and pompano. Keep that in mind about the 600-800-g gross reel weight. Typical light baitcast and spinning reels are often under 200 g. If you're casting a lot, you might be happier casting something like this - a 4000/5000 size Shimano with shallow braid spool, 280 g and 52 mm spool diameter. note that a 3000 size Tica Libra SX is a bit heavier at 350 g, and a bit deeper spool, but the same long spool stroke, excellent line management, and 52 mm spool diameter. I fish these with mono or heavier braid backing and 0.22 mm working braid (15-lb Sufix 832). Same idea would work for you - fill up the spool most of the way with thicker mono or braid and top off with 150+ yds 0.11-mm braid. Here's the line capacity calculator for stacking lines of different diameter

Tough to hook, a blast to watch them shoot 10' across the surface to attack your lure or fly - their eyesight is amazing - they also give great aerials. I've mentioned before we have a spot on the Guadalupe to sight-fish them on fly rod - there's a really deep gouge in the dolomite under those cypress, and they're always stacked there. ps - the arctic fox in my cats whisker gets caught in gar teeth, but you still have to plant the hook, and Tiemco hooks are sharp-enough

here's the best line capacity calculator for both English and SI units, based on line diameter. Here's the table that all Japanese line capacities are based on - - silk thread diameter numbers the Japanese have used for centuries (PE#). it's real easy to google a mm to inch conversion or a m to yds conversion The reality is no line capacity is based on pound-test - it's all based on line diameter.

It's not quite fair to lump non-Japan-made reels into "China" production. Taiwan is a special case. Tica has been making reels there, beginning with big offshore conventional reels, since 1960, and Tica makes a good portion of Daiwa reels. Ever since the Japan bicycle industry moved to Taiwan in the '80s, most of the world's best bicycle frames and components come from Taiwan. Shimano's non-Japan production line is Malaysia. Even aftermarket reel parts - Ray's Studio is Thailand, not China. If you buy Ray's Studio parts from Ali vendors, tracking shows they're first imported into China before finding an Ali warehouse and shipping container. Korea has their own fishing tradition, and Doyo is there, making Abu, Lew's, and BPS. British production lines moved to Korea, including Hardy and BFR, which was bought by Orvis. There are also good parts coming out of Hong Kong - Rorolures. Most people are going to measure spinning reels by smooth and light, or how inexpensively can you buy a reel with a brand name you like. I measure them by what size fish and how long they can keep bringing big fish to hand, and have fished through too many good reels to do otherwise.

Inshore I fish Stradic, Super Duty, Steez (salt-rated) and Zillion. No real worries as long as you don't dunk them and keep them rinsed. Surf is a little trickier because you're often getting splashed in surf and sand slurry. Get inside at least once/year. I always use unshielded spool bearings, at least partly because shielded bearings retain salt just like they retain lube - that also gets me inside more often to flush and lube spool bearings. But I fished old Lew's 20 years in the salt and surf, and this reel is still going fine - of course I retired it. Here's my Super Duty after 4 years inshore fishing. I have unshielded low-inertia spool bearings installed. Looks like my palm-plate brake magnets need replacing - four magnets are showing filliform corrosion lifting the surface plating... ...ordered replacement magnets from AMO Store on Ali Express... that magnet went right in the garbage after this photo. Another thing about reels in salt - remove/replace parts showing any signs of rust. The salt rust itself is more corrosive than the salt, and you don't want it spreading through your reel.

@Alex Ball The first I bought above is 8.3 SDG1XHF - been fishing this reel 4 years and I'm always floored by how it out-casts everything else. More recently I added a 6.8 SDG1H - but this is the first low-profile baitcaster I liked enough to buy a second of the same model - after trying singles in several different models. I gave away a spendier dual-brake Lew's to a friend, and sold two centrifugal brake spendier models. The only other reel that's impressed me this much is Daiwa SV TW, and there's not one at your price.

Lew's website still has Super Duty G listed at a sale price of $144 (shipped), and it's available with 8.3 gears. To me, it's just a better-built Revo. Mine's a little extra tricked out - I like a long-pitch handle on the XHF gears. The latch on Lew's LFS frame palm plate is superior to just about everything. When I talked to the guy who runs Lew's repairs, he has a soft spot for this reel, also.

the idea is that it won't close by itself mid-cast. The reel is intended for manual bail. Auto-bail-close is just a bad idea all around, and we're going to see them disappear altogether, as they already have on offshore reels. Good manual bait technique is required to fish braid - you completely eliminate line twist and wind knots, by feathering line at the end of your cast with fingertips, and taking up line slack before retrieving. @Newbrunswickbrookie otherwise, congratulations on a great reel choice. The magnesium rotor makes it superior to every reel below it in cost, which all have CI4+ rotor. (excepting aluminum rotor Twin Power) The only Shimano part I don't like is their plated-brass line roller, which is common for all ball-bearing-line-roller models. There's a nice upgrade made by MTCW, no seals, dual bearings, and a titanium roller.

@The Bassman The differences between Vanford and Vanquish - Vanquish has titanium bail and magnesium body, which gives it bit more stiffness - otherwise, drives and rotors are the same. Stella and Exsence share the same magnesium body and rotor - Exscence has the same aluminum drive as Vanquish and Vanford, and Stella has stainless steel drive. Neither Stella or Exscence have the extreme low inertia and weight of Vanquish and Vanford. And since I'm here, my pimped Vanquish

@BassWhole! to each their own cup of tea, um, or, whichever. IXA bearings (KTF) - my favorite for salt-resistant hybrid air bearings. What you gain with these bearings is your spool is faster out of the gate without overshoot, and that equals extra distance. You get equivalent brake result using less brake, and that equals extra distance. Using these same bearings on Super Duty in 1/4 to 7/8 niche. Targeting 1/8 to 1/4 oz on this Zillion. Of course a KTF wannabe with Ray's Studio spool. it holds 110 m PE#1.2, 27-lb X-braid, and casts to next year it's purdy, too