I have a few rods that have lost tips and one that has a bent guide (probably needs to be replaced). I have watched several videos on these types of repairs and it seemed the person doing the repair had some sort of machine that would "roll" the rod so they could apply epoxy and/or threads evenly. I am considering making these repairs myself - yet I understand that I need to learn more and perhaps pick up some needed materials.

One of those needed items might be the machine that "rolls" the rod.

My naive question is -- What is that machine called ?

Are there certain brands/companies that make them ? Are there styles/makes to stay away from ?

Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge/expertise. 

Mud Hole has a wealth of info and is my go-to.

They also carry quite a variety of rod-building gear.

https://mudhole.com/collections/rod-building-equipment

A-Jay

Definitely need something similar to this

 

That will do you wraps and epoxy application 

 

And you will need something similar to this in conjunction with the above to dry the epoxy - I actually use this to apply the epoxy as well

 

 

And I have this book BA (before Amazon)

 

 

That is very helpful to me

 

Good luck

@A-Jay and @Jigfishn10

Thank you for the information !

I had ordered an epoxy/brushes/thread "kit" from MudHole - but I did not know what the rolling machine was/is (they seem to have a bunch of different roller type machines that all seems to serve different purposes) ---- I am an avid reader/researcher so I will definitely look into that book as well as the machines that were posted. 

Thank you !

You are looking for a rod dryer.  The basic ones are pretty inexpensive relatively speaking.  You could probably make one of you really wanted to, you just need something that slowly rotates the rod so the thread finish dries evenly without sags.

 

It's possible to do it without a dryer by rotating it by hand every so often until it's dry enough not to sag.  I've never done this because it seems prone to a self inflicted mistake, but people do it.

The first guide I repaired was when I was a teenager 60 years ago, I just laid the rod in my lap and placed the thread in the palm of my hand and ran the thread through my fingers, all we had for a finish was my mom's nail polish which even to this day is a lacquer finish, I imagine that rod can still be found with the fishing gear though no longer used as the primary salmon rods used by the parents. Not pretty but it has been effective all those years of use. As usual nail polish dries pretty fast and was no concern as far as drooping. Your quality sporting goods stores have always had the capability to remove and replace tip tops at the counter; you just pay for the tip top and maybe a buck for the special temp hot melt adhesive that dries in just a minute after it is applied, just enough time to line it up right. If you are just doing these light repairs I would just have a local builder do it for less than it would cost to buy the equipment, they would have the right tip top and guide so knowing how to size everything and where to get it wouldn't be a concern, or the need to buy all the finishes and glue. People at your sporting good counter will know the builders/rod/reel repair people.

@Logan S and  @spoonplugger1

Yes, there seems to be a big difference in machines and pricing --- looks like a basic "rod dryer" machine is about $50 --- where other more complex machines that are $1000

This is why I asked the initial question/added the topic

My preference is a take on projects myself (even though I am not an intuitively mechanically inclined person) -- yet I also appreciate that some projects are best suited for those with the skills and tools (I have a cousin who is a master mechanic for Honda and I certainly defer to him as he has the knowledge and tools to do a significantly better job than I ever could -- I have a cousin who is an HVAC expert and has all the knowledge and tools to complete things I could not/would be too expensive)

So --- it seems the search continues --- 

I do not have designs on moving into rod making (yet you can never say never !) -- so I don't want to invest thousands in to machine/tools/things --- I am just looking to see if it is worthwhile for me to purchase a ???????????????????????????????????????? to use to roll the rod as I apply epoxy and thread 

A cardboard box with notches will work just fine for wrapping with a book for thread tension and a motorized dryer is usually used to apply epoxy and turn it to cure.  Please do this before spending serious $ for wrapping machines.

11 hours ago, WaskaCrank12 said:

looks like a basic "rod dryer" machine is about $50 --- where other more complex machines that are $1000

You are looking at rod dryers VS a power wrapper.  A power wrapper is for wrapping thread at high speeds, can be used for turning/shaping grips, applying thread finish, and yes also drying.  There is also a "finishing machine" type of tool that spins faster and have variable speeds for more precise finish application, but not used for wrapping or grip making (this is what I use).

 

For what you describe, anything other than the most basic rod dryer (retail or home made) would be massive overkill.   

 

You could also use something like Permagloss or CPXtra instead of a 2-part thread finish....These dry quickly and you wouldn't need a dryer at all.  

I have always called those rod dryer things   rotisseries because my first one was rigged from an old BBQ rotisserie.

@Logan S --- Excellent information !! Thank you - you gave me the clarity and information I was seeking

Bloom, I have been using one for 40 years that I cobbled up.  3 rpm.

Over at rodbuilding.org in the library section are simple plans to build a rod wrapper out of wood scraps some of us have hanging around, a dirt-cheap alternative. Built mine from oak 45+ years ago, much fancier and pool felt lined the stand v's, rebuilding/upgrading it now to pass on, it could go another 45 years no problem. Other than being a bit longer and lower than the one pictured it is spot on to what I have, notice the thread carriage can turn in on the stand so it takes up no extra room and it slides undisturbed the full length of wrapper before you have to move it, the pins in the stand lets you tie the rod down if you have to cantilever a bit to get to something. Notice the high tech power wrapper in use Lamiglas used over the decades.

I encourage new builders to turn the first few rods by hand. It’s PIA but it teaches you how epoxy behaves as it dries.  Beyond that, don’t spend a lot on equipment. Cobbling together tools is half the fun. 

@Delaware Valley Tackle - thank you, words of wisdom, I will heed your advice 

In the spring/summer of 2024 I took on some significant boat motor issues -- bought a manual for that motor (93' Evinrude/V4/90hp) -- watched YouTube vids (Brandon's Garage/OutboardDad/others) -- asked many questions here on BR -- borrowed some tools, made use of tools I already owned (which were not many), bought a few tools that I will get use out of on the regular, had to source some parts from salvage yards, took me 3 months, it was a PITA -- but I learned a ton (made many mistakes but failed forward) and now have the knowledge/skill/confidence/some tools to take on most future engine issues -- I will look to take a similar approach to these rod fixes -- who knows, it might blossom in to making a rod someday......   

On 12/28/2025 at 9:13 AM, Logan S said:

You could also use something like Permagloss

Idk about the CPxtra, but permagloss requires extreme ventilation. 2 part epoxy should have some ventilation, but permagloss is on a whole notha level with its toxicity

 

Just wanted to put that out there since I had been suggested to use it but never warned a few years back. I, like you, dont have a background in chemical or mechanical anything. Safety is often not mentioned in these discussions, I think people take for granted that they already know and assume it goes without saying when they tell you to just use XYZ or melt plastisol in a microwave without knowing you plan to do it in your basement that has no windows.

You don't need a dryer to get a good finish on your rod repair, you can simply rotate the rod by hand, I don't mean continuously just enough to ensure the finish dries even, when you first put the finish on it will be most fluid and will run to the bottom side in a visible droop in 1-2 minutes, you simply flip the rod over 180 and it will flatten than droop the other way, at which time you 180 it again, it gets thicker and longer between turnings as it sets, you continue this till it sets enough to stay flattened, how do you reliably know when to stop? Check your extra you didn't use as your guide. Press the end of your brush in the extra, when you leave a dent, it will self-level, when it no longer does that, you're done. I just watch something, read a book, build grip assemblies, etc. while this is happening to pass the time.

You are not naïve for not knowing the term.   My first several rods were hand wrapped using a box, three books, razor blade and dental floss.  Time consuming but rewarding.  The winder, drying supports and a handle lathe with cork reamers came later. 

There is nothing about rod building that is rocket science or can't be done without machinery, when many of us started the internet wasn't around, so thought and common sense was all we had. Asking what if and then setting it up as an unglued prototype for testing, it goes a long way in ensuring thing are installed correctly, up or down threaded section, etc. with good fit and finish which is the most important part. As you remove things from your prototyping just lay them out as they come off the rod, just that simple.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I go way back, we used to have Dale Clemon's custom tackle as "the" rod builder supplier.

You can take a BBQ grill motor and put in a electrical box. Make an rod end holder out of a piece of BBQ rod and attach to a 2" PVC end cap. Drill 4 - 90 deg apart holes, thread for thumb screws, and put plastic tips on the ends of the screws so they don't dig in. Then you need some sort of rod holder(s), but you can just use your regular wrapping ones as the supports. I have one like that. I can post a pix, if interest. They used to sell the parts at Clemon's. He made metal rod supports with adjustable 3 wheel support bearings and they've been very useful for a long time. I wrapped manual for about first 20 years. I made my wrapper out of an old singer sewing machine case. I bought the Clemon's power wrapper and installed inside so you can close the lid when your not using and store stuff in the drawers. You can use a sewing machine motor and pedal to build your own but it's the gear reduction that's the hard to come by piece. It's a small lathe chuck, belt attached to pullies to supply the speed reduction. I've had mine a long time, >40 years? I don't do much any more except repairs, but occasionally I'll make something special.

Dale more or less wrote the book on rod "crafting" and he's long gone. I went to the auction of his store and bought a bunch of stuff, most of which I still have.

I usually apply thread color preserver on the power wrapper, let dry, then move to the "dryer", apply the finish while rotating, and rotate til they're firm. It rotation helps even out the thicker epoxy so it don't glob.

Some production guys use a rod cover box to prevent dust, etc. and can heat the box with light bulbs, etc to cure.

5 hours ago, fish'n Jim said:

I go way back, we used to have Dale Clemon's custom tackle as "the" rod builder supplier.

...

Good stuff Jim. I get envious when I hear the old guys talk about Dale's book, Rod Crafters magazine...etc.

I would have loved to have had that stuff when I started. The only thing I had was knowing a bunch of local people who built rods.

I know that more people today are building rods than ever before....but, back in the day you could walk into just about any tackle shop and buy a blank...at least in middle Tennessee you could.

I think what really started it circa '60-'70s, was you couldn't buy a good rod or a specialty rod with good ceramic guides then. They had agate which was brittle. cf; I could buy a Shakespeare glass 7' spinning rod for $2 which was a 'name' rod then.

At least that's why I started. I was fishing Canada every summer and made my second rod for there. We were (ultra) light lining, 2,4,6 lb. Fenwick and Lamiglas were about the only suppliers of quality graphite freshwater blanks, until Loomis came on. Eagle claw got in on it for a while with glass and composite. Then there were imports, Lews, etc. Boron was a flash in the pan but was very good and I still have/use. Wish I could get some more boron blanks. Dale had some made as house brand and shopped in the far east - Fuji, etc.

Now I don't even recognize most of the brands Mudpuppy sells.

The off-the-shelf quality was awful too. That shakespeare broke in half. I was using mostly ABU's but they had stainless guides and 'eyes' line grooved real bad with light line. Doesn't take much of a knick to render 4lb test useless. Some of those still around here, too. This was about the time we were transitioning from glass to graphite.

Somewhere around here I got both of Dale's books.

Well, I got my lower unit back today, so first good day on the water, or if none, I'll go south(er).

Jim...I'm with you on the Boron. I had one I made into a Slider rod with a Tennessee handle and a Cardinal 3....and lost it off the back of the boat.😭

I also like Fenwick Feralite.