islandbass

The bottom line however is that this aspect of a rod, is purely subjctive and the only way you know for sure is to hold both. This is not to doubt ghoti (awesome screen name btw) at all. To give a different example, so many people say that Ugly Sticks are among the least sensitive rods in the book, but not to me. I find them quite sensitive. No I don't own one, but I have fished with a few and was shocked. Then again, I have this one rapala rod that to me seems to lack the sensitvity and feel of even an Ugly stick. I have held a Cumara and I instantly thought that it felt just right in my hands. It was a medium xfast if I recall. It's all relative and subjective certainly at best. The only way for certain is for you to hopefully handle both.

I find your enthusiasm admirable and I sure wish I started young. I myself started about 5 seasons ago and had to learn everything by myself. However, I think it would behoove you to focus on mastering the mechanics of the cast before you think about making long distance casts. I do not believe that practice makes perfect. It most certainly does not all the time. If that were true, then every dolt at a golf driving range who whacks golf balls with no target or purpose would become a better golfer. It is the same with learning to cast. It is quality, focused practice that will get you there and not mindless practice. Learning to make the rod work for you to make your casts will allow you to make the most of your casts with the least amount of effort. This leads to getting to those long distance casts that you want. I bet you've already found out what happens when you make too hard of a cast. ;D For example, if and when you do make a bird's nest, ask yourself, "how did it happen?" Was the reel set to the lure's weight? Did I cast too hard? And, "When did the nest occur? At the beginning of the cast, or perhaps the end? Asking yourself these things to analyze the situations will enable you to fine tune your reel. Also, pick a target and cast for it. You will be amazed at how your mind and body will work together to hit your target as each cast to your closes in and finally hits the bullseye. Alright! So you've hit the target! But can you hit it again, and again and again? Move back 5'-10' and try. So on and so forth. So master the mechanics and everything from a 25' pitch to the laundry basket in your basement to casting a 3/8 oz 5" Senko into the next zip code will follow. Yeah, I'm geeky and I concede I can overanalyze once in a while, but doing these things really helped me to learn how to use a baitcaster alone.

Less startup inertia perhaps? I think it aids in making the same casts we make with less effort on our parts. I plan to get some bearings reel soon to see for myself.

Wow. Sounds like you've got the score of the year. That beats my crucial for $59.00.

Fortunately both reels can get the job done for most situations. The already provided guidelines are an excellent recommendation. Bottomline it boils to down preference for each application. I am one who loves to use both because I see both as tools.

It irks the heck out of me. ;D I do my best to take care of my stuff but I have bad luck like dropping the rod/reel onto the asphalt (curado 201D). > I've done what you did but with scissors on the side of the reel where the spool meets the side plate too (curado bsf). I loan my dad my pristine symetre when I took him fishing, and not to my knowledge for most of the time fishing he put the reel down on coarse boulders. This reel was super cherry and flawless but when he handed it to me at the end of the day, my jaw dropped and my eyes popped out of their sockets. The bottom was all beaten and scratched and the finished shine ruined. It looked like a 10 year old reel. I blame myself because it was my fault for not telling him (newbie) but I guess you can say I irked myself. I don't like to fish with it anymore or at least I don't look down at it. ;D

I have only used Centrifugal brakes to date, so I can't comment on the other types. I will say the the VBS system spoils the angler such that you almost don't need a thumb.

They do look awesome as I mentioned, but does anyone know how those zirconia guides compare to say the Fuji Alconites or even Aluminum Oxide guides? Ever since I got my Crucial that sports Alconites, it seems hard for me to go in the other direction guide wise.

Wow!!!! I didn't get to the Okuma link yet and I'm out of Brawny paper towels. ;D

Looks like Rod Long beat me to the punch. Thanks!

You're in luck. I have both. What measurements would you like me to compare? I'm not a photagrapher so if I took pics they might not be to scale, but I can take measurements. I can tell you that the 100s will look considerably smaller and definitely easier to palm as well. Both are awesome. I'd be more than happy to take measurements later this evening after work today.

If you're talking about the curado e. it is goiong to be shorter (vertically) than a curado 100d. Now that is great news. A reel that is actually a 100 sized reel but yet has the line capacity of a 200. Yee ha!!!! 8-)

You've been given excellent advice. The only rod that I would consider is the Berkeley Cherrywood rod. It hovers at about $20.00 and they have 2 piece casting and spinning models.

Thanks! I am definitely going to try this after my right ankle heals. Oh yeah. 8-)

It has a bushing.

Can you post a pic of the how it is rigged? I am not familiar with either the hook or the bait can't really visualize it. Perhaps I finesse fish too much. ;D

Unfortunately, just about any non braided line left of a spool of a reel is probably going to acquire memory. You haven't see anything on memory until you've used Pline's CXX. If you looked up Fishing Line Memory in the dictionary, you might see a picture of a spool of CXX. Solid line, but memory up the ying yang. Not that it affects the line, but it is rather unsightly.

Did you check the sharpness of the hooks. I keep my trebles super sharp so that when the strike, they impale themselves. There are almost is a hook set at all.

Fortunately, the lines don't have to be the same strength. However, if you will need to find the right knot if the line diameters are significantly different. Some knots for joining lines are better suited for lines that are approximately the same diameter and other knots are suited for lines whose diameters are significantly different. You will only need about 10 yards of mono or whatever non braided line to prevent the braid from slipping. If you are primarily bass fishing, you can get away with say filling the bottom half or third of the spool with mono and then fill the rest with braid. For example, my reel with braid is filled mostly with mono with the last 50 yards with the braid. This will allow me to use up all of the braid which would have otherwise spend all of its life on the spool and never seeing any action. Overtime the volume of the braid diminishes with every cut off and retie to the point that the spool is no longer at optimum capacity. Line recovery and castibility are both affected and as mentioned, that braid at the bottom won't get used. With a large mono backing with braid in the top, the spool stays near capacity even when the braid is low and then I just add the next 50 yards of line on top. The typical 150 yd. filler spool allows me to do this 3 times. Keep in mind this is for bass fishing or targetting lesser, smaller species. I would never do this when I battle salmon or steelhead. Last year a brutish chum salmon fought me for 22 minutes before he spooled my curado 201DHSV that was filled to optimum capacity. :'( I tipped my hat as a sign of respect.

I have the left handed version of this reel and can vouch that it is a solid reel in terms of features and performance. However, those who are weight weenies will note how heavy the reel is and therefore it is not worth it. I must say that they do have a point. The darn thing is nearly 10 oz. Pros Great Features Clicking Drag Star Dartanium Drag HE gearing Excellent caster of even lighter weight 30" line recovery rate Cons Weight Weight Bulky - if you don't need the line capacity and will primarily fish for bass, the 100D is the lighter and wiser choice, unless you need the higher line recovery rate. Weight Weight ;D Mine also battles salmon and hence the need for the 200 size. So other than its hefty weight, the reel is flawless. With all that said, I would wait for the newer curado E. It will superior in just about about every category and would IMHO be worth the weight (pun ;D) I mean wait. The 200E will actually be smaller than a 100 but have the line capacity of a 200 and be over 2 oz. lighter. The link below is a link to the TT Review of the 200DHSV http://www.tackletour.com/reviewshimanocurado200dhsv.html

You shouldn't be too concerned. Unless both reels have the line on it, no comparison you make is going to be fair. The line you bought, isn't going to give you the best castibility at 10# test on a spinning reel to boot. Also, you will need to learn how to properly load the rod during the cast to maximize casting distance. If you are hearing the rod whiff by your ear (on an overhand cast) too quickly, that is usually a sign that the rod was not properly loaded by the weight of the lure. I am inclined that you believe that you know how to cast a spinning set up so I will place my bet that it is the line that is the culprit. If the line on the Zebco is thinner in diameter that the one on your spinning reel, this will probably be the reason. I have 12# yozuri on my casting reel and IMHO it yields fair casting distance but I know of other 12# lines that outperform it in the casting department. It does not detract from the rest of its awesome traits and it is a keeper in my arsenal.

Definitely brakes with the curado. I was just testing my personal limits and have concluded it's not worth the trouble. 8-)

UPDATE With a Curado 101D I don't know about you all, but I thought that I "had it down" if you know what I mean. I was quite confident I could handle my Curado 101D in the same fashion. El wrongo!! The first cast the spool spun so fast it was not even controllable but luckily my thumb stopped it cold. Whew! Did I mention how fast it was spinning? I thought the abu g was free, but the Curado D was a completely different animal. A few more casts were about the same, even with "wussy" casts. May 30-50' before it becomes too difficult to manage. The cast has to be super smooth, no muscling at all. Overpower=backlash. It is the epitomy of smooth and easy and even then you might overrun. It was amazing though how fast the 101D goes with no brakes. I still can't compute it. Then on the last cast some wind comes up out of nowhere and I did the "deer in the headlights" thing. I didn't even bother untangling it. Just glad I was at home to remove the spool and add new line. Going zero with a curado d is going to take some adjustment. It ought to work fine for short casts and pitches, but with distance casts, no wind had better sneak up on you. It's a disaster waiting to happen.

Yep, that's a good idea to call them up. Sorry to hear that you have to go through this.

Are you using braid for the first time or other similar superline? If so it is not the guides. The weird sound you are hearing is the braid rubbing against the guides. This sound is normal and you will only hear it on the retrieve, especially when fighting a fish. This will not hurt the guides. Alconites are among the lighter and tougher guides. If it isn't braid, then some more investigation is in order.