flechero

fyi- They didn't raise the prices when the xpediter program was started.

It's unlikely that you can get it to go a full size but we each have little tools and tricks to try. I have flared the tubes and gained some additional diameter a few times... combine that with a few thousandths from tip prep and you might get there but it's no gaurantee. Check with your builder to see if he has any options or tricks he can try. The safest thing is to use a different tip... maybe there is a tip that would be an upgrade that you can use. The other thing to consider is that when they list a blank- it's often not correct... (or was only correct for the sample they measured) since the blanks vary a bit you might have a size in either direction of the posted diameter. So you might have to go up 2 sizes or you might just be ok. Without the specific blank in hand, you just can't know.

Range time and some training is the place to start. A 1911 is a superb weapon, but it's also one that requires some time and training. If you are willing to invest some time and money, it's a great option for some. I don't have any experience with the beretta. For a no nonsense SD weapon don't over look a revolver. For many situations, they are a great choice. If you take a basic pistol class at a local range, you'll be able to see, handle and fire a variety of handguns and calibers... that's a good way to get started, IMO.

I bought a Mossberg 500A in May of 1990... it was my only shotgun until about 5 years ago and I hunted dove, quail, pheasant and shot a lot of skeet & trap every year with it. I lost track of the round count several years ago, in the neighborhood of 9500 so i can't give you a true reading now but it's a lot! Anyway, I hunt with guys that have guns costing more than my old trucks did. ...lol Bottom line is that I was the only guy in the group with a "cheap" mossberg (yes they teased me about it) and the only guy in the group that never had a breakdown in the field in that 20 year period. (And yes, I teased them about that) I just broke that streak 2 months ago but it was my fault, as the ejector screw backed out... I didn't tighten it enough after the last cleaning/reassembly. :-[ I like the 500 better than the 870 since I'm a lefty- the safety is ambidextrious on the Mossberg. Bottom line is either is a versitile, reliable shotgun, capable of lasting a lifetime with proper care... and both are budget friendly.

From an old thread witht the same question....

We've used it for the last 6-7 years... liked my old cpa but between the cost and errors we like turbo tax much better. It walks you through each step and you can't scew it up. (unless you just type in the wrong numbers)

Very true and as you point out, it doesn't matter the weapon... there are people that make poor shots and poor decisions with all of them. My beef is with those that either lack the maturity to pass on bad/too long shots or have such an inflated ego that they take the shot anyway. Being a guy that strictly limits shots to about 15 yds with my bow, I really frown on those that take poor shots.

So I suppose you limit yourself to magnum cartridges and wide open broadside shots of under 100 yds, off a benchrest? Also, dropping one in it's tracks, doesn't always mean killing it instantly. Real hunters should know their effective range and try to take ethical shots, period. No one can gaurantee a perfect shot, even within range in good conditions. FWIW, I've seen a much higher percentage of rifle hunters take shots out of range thinking they "might be able to hit it" than the bow or muzzle loader crowds.

Look up the IPT of the reels you like not the gear ratio, as two are rarely the same. Base your choice on the closest actual retrieve rate, not gear ratio. And for team depends- It just wasn't that long ago that Abu put out the 5.3:1 "High Speed." :

If you really know what you want or have a builder take the time to educate you on options, a custom rod can change your mind about ever owning a factory rod again. Aesthetics completely aside, being able to spec grip diameters, shapes, sizes, lengths, material... having the ability to use any blank and even be able to modifiy it if needed to tailor the power/action for any purpose... having it balance to a specific reel, not to mention component choices, spiral wraps, etc.... well you get the idea. Here is the catch and why I say "if you really know what you want" because for some people, the perfect rod is already available in a factory rod. (most factory rods are decent, although guide spacing and fit/finish are the common complaints) Picking your colors and specifying which guides a builder uses, is not a custom rod... I hate it when I see ads for "custom rods" and that's what it is. :-X

I agree but the diameter is a size smaller different on the sufix seige compared to the XT... I use #14 & #17 XT a lot but use the #17 & #20 in the suffix for same applications. It's clearer than XT and has less memory. Maybe not quite as tough but it beats most other monos I have tried. and it's what I use in place of XT in cold weather since XT is so bad in freezing temps.

do you have a set of calipers? Just measure the tip and convert. I copied this from rodbuilding.org a while back for just that reason.

One of the nicest men I had ever met.

To know what the actual rod wt. is you need to measure it on the CCS scale. It will tell you what the rod is, not necessarily what it was labeled. (which is often not accurate) http://www.common-cents.info/ A 5 wt. will work for panfish, bass trout and more but as stated, you may have your hands full with bigger bass or cover. Just use a little heavier leader and you'll get by ok. The biggest limitation is casting larger flies, not catching the fish. There is a guide down on the Tx coast guides for bull reds (bulls are over 28") and only uses a 4 wt. Now having said all that, I prefer my 7wt. ...lol But I do occasionally break out the 2wt and 4 wt. for smaller bass.

For most people a technique specific rod only helps them narrow what it might work well for. But then remember that there are basically H, MH and M power rods with mod, fast or x-fast actions in bass fishing... now there are about 100 technique and species specific rods. You do the math and see if there isn't a LOT of cross over. for example: My 7' H fast rod does about 6 things really well- but it would be only labeled for one thing. :-? On the flip side to get all those techniques on the rods, you would have 6 rods that are all 7' H fast. (but labeled for different things) See the problem? edited to add: While the labeling can be a great help to some, it really serves as a marketing tool to sell more rods.

With micros, I agree... you can'y keep line off the blank without narrowing the spacing too much. That's one of my few complaints with micros... Even then, with a real small butt guide you can't keep the line north of the blank - unless you move the guide way back. (or just catch small fish ) pgersumky, Micros are not for everyone or every rod... if you don't enthusiastically want them, don't do it. If you comprimise on "wants" your rod will never be your favorite. I love the idea of micros all the time for weight, balance and reduction of other material but it's not always the right answer. That's just my opinion- consider the price. ;D

Jay, is this near you at all? Looks like a pretty cool event. And the weights were up there in the '09 results. http://www.bassnfly.com/The%20Bass-n-Fly%20Challenge%20tournament.html

What a cool thing to do. Kudos to you! Only one question though...Why no pics of long mike? ;D

Or just combine the arts 6"-9" flies turn some nice fish! http://members.ij.net/danscustomflys/MagnumBunkerPage.html

Greatness! What perfect timing... as I sit here working on a (my) new 9 wt.

Depends on the bow... some of the shorter recurves are not capable of going 32". Most of the 60" or longer bows should be ok but I would make a quick call to the mfr. of whatever brand you are considering just to be sure. You will probably like something in the 62" - 66" though since most 60" bows will stack heavily at anything over 30" so finding the desired weight may be a lot of trial and error. Good luck!

In double foots- I'd be using BLNAG's. (or CLNAG's if you want chrome) Why? Because alconites are the best value in guides, period. They are strong, light, smooth and will hold up to braid as well if that's what you like. If you wanted to dump a bunch of money you could go with titanium SiC's but for a swimbait rod that's a complete waste of money. (IMO) I'm not a fan of the ringlocks... love the idea but when I had them in stock, they were horribly inconsistent and would bend very easily- not what you want in a big bait rod. Not to mention the prepped feet were awful... they were burned up and differed in lengths and needed more work than unprepped guides. :-?

I build cranking rods with eva and feel rods with cork... I like cork better but after a coupl hours of cranking, I really like eva. ...lol

Please don't heat the blank! Go to your local tackle shop and ask who they us for repairs or if there is a custom builder locally that can do repairs. Replacing a guide is easy if you know what you are doing... and usually cost less than $15, parts and labor.

the dbl chug bug was even popular back about 10-15 years ago in the north texas lakes.