shackman

X2

Just like Phish said, it’s just the nature of the beast. I’ve got metanium’s that became geary just after a few outings so higher end reels become geary too. I do feel like higher speed reels seem to become geary faster, anyone else relate to that?

30-50# braid on most of my Shimano bait casters, 10# pound on my Stradic. with 10,12,15 and 20# big game tied with an fg knot for yrs now with very minimal failure. I highly recommend learning the fg knot if you’re going the braid to leader route. Tie it over and over and over till you master it. Now can tie it in 2-3 minutes in any kind of conditions but it was definitely a learning curve. It’s also easy to break off when hung by wrapping braid around some type of handle, I use a wooden dowel. Most of the time leader knot will remain intact and will break at bait knot. Well this is the method I personally prefer anyway, but to each their own.

I do service my own reels but have never had a need to go into these yet. The higher gear ratio Mets do seem to have a little bit of whine to them than the lower gear ratio ones but it’s a very faint whine and does not bother me as long as they perform well and I’ve never had a problem out of any of my micro module gear Shimano’s. Just a faint whine in a few but other than that, all is good

X2..I’ve got 4 of em. Light, smooth and casts light baits if needed. Been Fish’n em hard for 4 yrs now and I don’t think they can be beat!

X2, I’ve got 8 of them that’s still going

Abu definitely had some unique innovations back in that era. I remember the reel with the orbital gearing system and one of the XLT models that when you disengaged the clutch to make a cast, the line guide would stay stationary and you had to rotate the handle until each side of the line guide had to lock into place before line guide would move again. It was very interesting concept and it brings back a lot of memories.

Expride A 7’3” XH is all I use for frogging and I’ve had it doubled over many times in the slop. It’s one tough, light weight rod that you can frog fish all day long with minimal fatigue. Also use it with a heavy jig and swim baits. It’s a beast of a rod!

I don’t have any St Croix rods but have several Zodias, old style and new and I like them pretty well

Centrifugal brake Shimano's is all I use. Set em and forget em

I use 30/40 braid with 15# leader with fg knot on casting reels for tx rig and jig and have never had a problem. When I used to Ty the Alberto with leader, I always blew the connection knot and had to Ty new leader everytime. I can break off 2/3 times with the fg and always still have a leader to ty on and get back to Fish’n.

I also use an expride A 7’2” mh with braid to leader. 50lb pp super slick with a 6’ 15# CXX leader with no problems

For years a Uni knot with 5 wraps is all I Ty on all lines. Braid,fluro, mono..never had a knot fail and can Ty it in the dark.

Me either Catt. Too slick, can’t grip em. Any EVA rods I have gets heat shrink tubing over it.

I’d get the metanium mgl..smooth as silk, lightweight, very comfortable to palm and casts great. I’ve ordered 2 off of digitaka with no problems. Took about a week to receive them.

Yes I did remove the dc module but just to look at the other side to see if I saw anything but I didn’t service the bearing but I will go by the schematic like you said and disassemble it to the bearing and make sure everything is seated as I go back together with it. Thanks for the info, I’ve serviced and repaired many reels but this is my first dc. I also have another dc that I have tore down. It’s a Calais 200dc but it just needs a drive gear that is almost impossible to find. No problem with the dc module on it.

Ok, I wish I knew you could tell me too. Do I need to just make sure all points are the same distance with mm ruler where the screws are or could you suggest anything else that I could look at DVT?

Hello folks, I'm working on a reel for a guy and it's got me stumped. I've been all through it and have eliminated everything under the handle side plate. It's a curado dc and it's something going on with the dc system and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. I can put the dial in the open position and take the side plate off and put it back on and it's fine until you turn dial to a setting then it gets grindy sounding.then I move dial back to the open position and it's still grinding until I remove side plate and put it back on, then the grinding is gone. It's like it re sets something. As soon as you move dial to a setting, grinding sound is back. Man I don't know, I have no idea how these dc's work. Is the I-DC4 system serviceable? Can you even get in it or is it sealed from the factory? Can you clean contacts and put dielectric grease in it? Any thoughts?

This is the best method I’ve found for tying the fg knot. I can tie it in just a couple of minutes on the boat and it’s all I use. I use to tie the Alberto but my leader always broke off when I got snagged and had to tie another leader every time. Reason being, I believe because you have to fold the line and with the fg knot the line is never folded. When I break off with the fg knot, knot is still intact and still have enough leader line to just tie on another bait and be back fishing.

Personally I’d use my 7’3” XH Expride in that with 50# braid. Just like others have said, you gotta get em out quick cause if they wrap up in the pad stems, it’s over

It’s just the nature of the beast when it gets little ware on the gears. Higher gear ratio reels seem to do it sooner. Even my metanium 150 hg has the buzz now and all my older Shimano’s except the ones with HEG gearing. Newer technology is not always better. I use my older Chronarch 50mg’s and D’s and E’s more than my newer reels with micro module gearing. I also like the 6 pin set em and forget em centrifugal brakes vs the newer style with an outside adjustable wheel. That’s just my preference.

I have both of them too, you’re gonna love em Randy!

I’ve used a combination of oil and light grease on the worm gear for years and never even had to replace a pawl on my old Shimano’s. It works for me anyway but other than that, yes, only main drive gear gets grease

Yes that is weird..should throw a 1/4 with no problem.Don't get me wrong cause I do like my Metanium 20. I have a JDM Met 20 and USDM Met 150b and I prefer the JDM version more because I don’t really like the deep narrow spool on the 150b and I prefer the 85mm handle but I like the spool on the JDM and also have a shallow spool that I can change out with it too.

Yes sir, I’ve used those as well over the years. They are tanks! I still use a chronarch 100A that I converted to 5.0:1 for deep cranks. The drive and pinion gears came out of 200B5 curado. They will interchange with no problem