iabass8

I have multiples of the Steez A and the SVTW and also a single 100 that I bought to try. They aren't identical. I understand how somebody would think that looking at them though. For one, the 100 doesn't have a recessed brake dial like the A and SVTW so the palmside plate is already different. The middle frame footprint is also just a touch wider on the 100 than the sv and the A. Splitting hairs but I wanted to know if they were actually "identical" like some claim. I've measured it out of curiosity. they're both very small and comfortable to palm but the A and SVTW are noticeably more comfortable.

They're close to the same footprint but not identical. Side plates are the glaring difference but it's a smidge wider but noting that's noticeable without actually measuring. I mean not like tomorrow or anything but I could see it being phased out in the fall already. I'm sure it's a good reel but it's a niche series. If anything, the P/F will go away pretty quick /w the SV introduction last month on the 100 platform. It would be a pretty tough sell for people people to spend the extra 50$ on a reel when you get an SV on the entry level tatulas and with how well it was received in the previous version. As for the far cast, I'd rather find an older HLC than buy the elite. Asking somebody to spend 150 give or take to cast a little further than the standard 100 will be a tough sell as well.

I can see it being d/c fairly quickly. with the new tat SV that came out last month 50$ cheaper and the 100 regularily found at 100$, it's likely going to find it's way to clearance sooner rather than later.

You don't need a cranking battery and a battery for electronics. Wire your electronics properly and you won't have any voltage issues. Get the biggest battery you can afford/fit in your boat. The X2 31 AGM is a great battery just make sure your charger you plug in when you get home can handle AGM batteries. Run 10g wire directly from each unit, on it's on wire, back to the cranking battery and fuse each hot wire /w the correct waterproof fuse holder. Solder/heat shrink the connections between wires. This is the cleanest power /w the least amount of interference. Avoid house power for electronics on your boat. I've done it this way for years on every boat. Yes, 10g is "overkill" for 2x 7in graphs but if you decide to upgrade, you won't have to rewire when larger graphs call for it.

IPT isn't static. It's based on a full spool . Your IPT vary based on the amount of line you have on the reel , spool circumference and depth of the spool. the less line you have on the spool, the lesser your IPT are. Gear ratio remains the same but IPT lessens as line is taken off the spool.

TackleTrap sells the Zillion SVTW inductor and the R+ inductor. Both are huge upgrades over the stock sv103 inductor.

The 894 balance, to me, was really bad Without modification. You either have to add weight to the butt end or redo the handle altogether. It’s a stupid sensitive blank but the tip heaviness is annoying I sold mine.

The first gen Tatula SV is on the CT platform. The new one that just came out is on the smaller compact 100 size frame.

Most Daiwas aren't. Get away from the CT platform.

It will loosen up over time anyway. Dont let it confuse you, its just a CC knob. Theres nothing special about it or how its set. Ive loosened up all of mine and swapped them between A’s and svtw’s. Its set in the “prefered” way at the factory which is too tight for my liking anyway.

I have the same set up .glad you like it. It's killer.

No, I'm very, very for it. I do it to most reels or if people ask me to on their own. However, "polishing gears" isn't considered a "supertune" or anything more beneficial than a cosmetic upgrade. Unless you're bruce lee /w a dremel, stay away from gears. supertuning is polsihing friction points, spool ends, shafts, spacers and drag washers. f If you watch more of this guys videos,he also makes claims that polishing spool shafts and the inside of a pinion "does nothing" to a reel....which couldn't be further from the truth. For example, polishing the internals of of a pinion gear and the spool shaft on the E series curado makes a huge difference. Free floating spools benefit much less than a through shaft design however. this guy whose video you posted knows his stuff for spinning reels but listening to his claims on casting reels and watching some of the things he does maintenance wise is hard to watch and "cringeworthy" to say the least.

Don't ever...ever...ever do this. It does absolutely nothing performance wise.The less you touch the gears when doing maintenance, the better. either use the softest brush you can find after soaking them in a degreaser/ultra sonic cleaner or use brake clean/qc cleaner on them and rinse/diry. The less you touch the gears aside from relubrication, the better for your DIY folk. I can't stress this enough.....Gears aren't made of indestructible metal. When these gears are indexed for reels, they're done post coating or cut. For you folk that take a tooth brush or scrub the gears and then wonder why something doesn't feel as smooth or the reel is "loud" (this applies to non mag frame reels), this is often why. This is imperative for reels that use duralumin gears or anything non brass. Brass coated gears are also susceptible to having this happen as well.

tackletrap, hedgehog, zpi, basszone, SLP

For being a little princess . you did an above average job on this. Well done .

would never purchase spool speed bearings...

Sweet little baby jesus I love the IP reels. Aways the birdesmaid never the bride trying for the IP68

But free spool time means everything, duh!

I've seen bits and pieces of info about this. It's just an update on the dated Legend Xtreme. Same type of skin handle I'm told but a "lighter more sensitive blank". I think it's still got the POS Sk2 reel seat though so I won't even look at it .

There’s dozens of pictures all over the community group on Facebook of the rod.

No, build your own for less than 10$.

The rod is predominantly bright red from the writing, logo, and accent ring colors.

All year. theres hundreds of varations of a small flatside. They dont all throw minimal vibration ala a shadrap where its hard to tell whats going on. Theres 1 7/8 in balsa flatside squarebills that thump harder than a 1.5. Then theres others that are inbetween.

I like to throw the Karu VibraShock on a Gen1 MB Diablo Spec R. inbetween fast and mod. Dobyns Fury 734 would be a good 100$ option. Not really a fast action rod and more of a MH than H.

imagine that....a small flat side crankbait catches fish in cold water. If only there were balsa baits made for this for the past 40 years.