iabass8

You win the internet in ‘22.

I'm going to speak on spool bearings. frame bearings and handle bearings, don't bother. Just order a new one. I keep countless on hand for that reason. Frame bearings can be a direct result of how smooth of unsmooth a reel can feel. There's, imo, no reason to try and flush/grease it. just replace it /w a quality SS one. On to spool bearings, Ask 5 people how to flush the bearings and you'll get 7 answers. For me, and what I've found what works for me and others over the years, is removing one of the shields and hitting it /w a degreaser solvent or soaking it in a degreaser and mixing it around. A blast of air and then into isopropyl alcohol and then a blast of air. you don't need to spin a bearing at mach 99 on a bearing tool. You want your bearing to come to a complete smooth, quiet stop. If it stops abruptly, it's not clean or it's bad. However, if you have a perfectly clean bearing, it will spin for a long time and come to a very smooth, clean stop. one single drop of oil will last a One Rod Todd type of guy half a season. Single drop after half a year and you're good till winter. Type of oil is personal preference. For maximum performance, you want something /w a very low viscosity. Hedgehog long cast, ZPI, and, ironically enough, REM gun oil, work very well for spool bearings. Hedgehog is my personal favorite. Polishing the shaft and inner pinion isn't something to just go in on a reel and try. I use different grades of sand paper and polishing compounds. You don't want to alter the concave tip or the dimensions of the shaft but you want it to be a mirror/smooth finish. The inside of the pinion you can wrap fine polishing paper on the end of a dremel and then smooth out anything rough. Then hit it /w polishing compounds. The shaft is something that can be done /w most polishing pads but you do not want to remove any of the metal. only mirror finish it.

There's a multitude of versions of an SV spool. They've been in Daiwa reels since 2012/2013 and have many advances, altercations, etc. Long story short, "SV" isn't static across all platforms. There's different inductors, magnets, spools and so forth. They trickled down the Tatula roughly 4-5 years ago and are very user friendly. In example, you can set the brakes significantly lower in the Tatula SV lines and enjoy both the benefit of the SV while having to thumb a little but less than what you're used to. The tatula SV performs exceptionally well but to get the performance out of it, flushing the bearings and polishing the shaft is when the reel, tatula SV specifically starts to shine. some are fine /w it stock but as somebody that uses top of the crop spools and cleans/tunes some others in the tatula lines, I can tell a difference. Also, assuming you're referring to the Tatula SVTW and the TatulaSVTW103, go /w the TatulaSVTW103. It's a more compact version of the older SV and will give you the same benefits. The "SV103" (non tatula variant) is an older Zillion based platform /w an SV spool.

I really don't know what you're getting at or asking by say that something isn't supported by facts just based on your use but w/e. There's been various discussions across some reel tech groups and other forums of having to replace more than their fair share of duralumin gears faster than usual. the Tt themselves even said the same thing....results obviously will vary and it isn't obviously as "wide spread" as dry tatula gears but regardless, it's had enough of a presence to raise eyebrows.

no but i am privy to fortunately knowing somebody who is. The hyperdrive gears in the JDM zillion G and Steez CT (new version) are cut the same. Not same size gears but same concept. Per Brian at the TT, you can indeed swap the zillion G gears into the current Steez A/Morethan reels. Personally, from what I've measured, the main gear is the same but the pinion is slightly taller in the new zillion G but the gear mesh lines up. I did not swap the steez CT or the new one. I'm not a huge fan of the steez CT reels in general so I won't be pursing them. Much prefer then current Morethan/A line. I've used the duralumin gears for the past 6 years and they've been, for the most part, great. They can be susceptible to losing their "buttery" feel based on what they're used for. I have used the current hyperdrive in the JDM zillion for a year now and been around a used Steez CT /w them and can confidently say they are better gears. Daiwa is becoming more strict on gear sales. especially JDM sets. For example, PLAT, unless something has changed lately, is not allowed to sell current duralumin gears for the morethan or any other current JDM reel. You have to send the reel into them for replacement now. It's a reel specific issue so asking him is the best course of action if looking.

They are cut differently. Ive also compared the hyperdrive and previous gearing. They look identical size wise but they arent. Brian over at the TT had somebody confirm it.

Dual supported pinion bearing isnt new. Daiwas been doing it for roughly 20 years. Dual supported pinion bearings are found in Nearly every free-floating spool real Daiwa makes. New CT is just just a touch more refined which is largely impacted by the hyper drive gear. Though the gears look cut the same as the previous duralumin, they are holding up significantly better over the past year for me.

anybody know how similar this rod is to a st croix Xtreme MLXF?

Ive used it for nearly a year for pitching and flipping 3/8 and 1/2 jigs in wood. Super sensitive rod and very powerful. Was on the fence /w the 6'7 length when normally using a 7'2 but I really like it and have grown to prefer the shorter rods for pitching and skipping.

Depends on the rod reel seat. Preferred the Steez SVTW and Morethan when using an ECS reel seat but since I've started using the MB P5's more for some bottom contact and pitching, I really like the JDM zillion G /w that reel seat. Didn't like the steez CT much but I have large hands. Prefer the Steez SV/A/morethan body the most. zillion G is super nice, too.

that isn't a bad dent.....and it's not terribly difficult to fix. Just tedious. The trick is heat and rolling with hard rubber tips pushing from one side and rolling the other. The lip on Daiwas spools is very thin and brittle and can break off if you aren't careful. Did the same thing to a morethan spool.

Clean your spool bearing. The zillion has a grease shield added for bearing protection that ironically had grease that was in the bearing. I had zero issues throwing a 1/4 flatside balsa crank a ways or skipping jigs with mine.

I've had mine for almost a year now. I like it a lot. I've had the Steez SVTW/A/Morethan variants for nearly 5 years. Spool performance is similar to the 1016 sVTW steez spool but isn't as choked off on a long cast. frame wise it's a little bulkier than the Steez svtw frame but still small and compact in hand. Only negative is I don't like threaded nut handle caps. i prefer the bolt in. Very smooth, consistent reel.

Anybody have one that can provide the weight/balance of this?

The orochi didn't have the breakage issues that the levante had. the levante was pulled from shelves and redesigned. People break rods for a litany of reasons and claim they "babied" it and then smear them on reviews. I've heard very, very little of the Gen 1 Orochi, which I love, and as well as the Gen2 orochi that you are wanting as having "breakage" issues. Ignore TW reviews. It's like getting health advice at a fast food convention.

I'm aware it's a glass rod. I've used all 3 which is why I commented on it. The CBMF is a glorified wet noodle of a rod. The 705cb glass is a glass/graphite blend that has a graphite lower section /w a glass upper 1/3(ish) tip. It only behaves as a glass rod when a fish is hooked. The 705 CB isn't a traditional MH/F rod. It's a MH /w a mod/fast tip. the CBMF behaves like a full glass rod and fishes close to what you consider a M rod than anything else.

The CBMF is a wet noodle of a rod. Go /w the 705CB or CBGlass.

Not a local anymore. Just grew up in the Urbandale area. I live in the eastern part of the state on the Mississippi River. I always choose ramps /w sand on the Saylorville because waiting for weekenders drove me crazy. Green Valley, Rathburn , 12 mile and on occasions 3 mile were my favorite. Red Rock was hit or miss. Hate big creek.

you're using the most popular ramps on Saylorville closest to camp dodge that will get the most traffic in and out. Use the ramps across the lake or under the bridge and just beach your boat when you leave on the sand. It's unfortunate that place hasn't put in a 4 lane ramp. What you're encountering is normal. nobody owns the ramp. just take your time.

Across all brands, even up to daiwa flagship steez and morethan reels, “plastic” non main gear/pinion parts is the norm aside from the clutch. Its been that way for years. Its a non issue.

Nobody said it was....he's referring to the centrifugal brakes of the E series. The more loose the cap, the faster then spool spins when engaging the clutch. The tighter, the slower. For clarification, he's saying that increasing the tension on the CC knob still does not decrease the spool speed when engaging the clutch which happens when there's a lack of tension on this reel. OP, The CC knob should have one circular washer and one large square washer following by the spring and spool bearing. The side plate spool bearing should have a spacer under it as well.

He didnt say what reel/handle he has. There’s Daiwa S, Daiwa L, Shimano A and Shimano B etc. Difference obviously being length or post and the lower portion of the post being 5mm. Not to mention if his knob would require the spacer to adapt to a daiwa post. get the correct replacement for your reel.

Riveted handle knobs can't be adjusted. They're generally not shimmed and will naturally have handle knob slop. You have 3 options. Deal with it. Buy a new handle that allows for a knob to be removed via a screw under the knob cap and shimmed correctly. Drill the rivet out and replace it /w a replacement shaft that was shown above. you can find them readily available on AliExpress for both Daiwa/abu or shimano. Just get the right size. Tapping a riveted handle out is very easy. just go slow from the backside.

What is this BSF you speak of?