rippin-lips

Yeah, same here. 5 + 1 spinning combo. I have unused combos but those 6 can cover all of my bases. You'll love that jbs. Assuming that's what it is. It's a great rod.

I'm digging this reel. Had to swap out the factory knob. Too skinny for my liking. Time to test out how well the drag works

Carbontex drag washers are not going to up your max drag by any real degree. You have oil residue on your metal and fiber drag washers. You need to tear it apart and degrease them with a good degreaser like simple green diluted with water. That includes the inside surface of the main gear. You have oil where it's not supposed to go. It's pretty simple. Did you scale test the drag to see what it's actually reading? 6lbs of drag is more than enough for most bass fishing situations. Yes, the drag washers are worth upgrading for the $8 they cost but if you don't remove the oil the problem still exists.

Spinning reel gear ratios tend to have a different ipt than a casting reel in the same ratio due to spool size. The 15 Luvias 2506h has a gear ratio of 5:6 and an ipt of 33" 'spinning' A tdz 103ml has a gear ratio of 5:7 and an ipt of 22" 'casting' 2 reels with almost identical ratios and almost 12" difference in ipt. My spinning reel is a 4:8 ratio and the ipt is 28" Dont overthinking it that much. It'll work just fine.

Yes, use a degreaser such as simple green and scrub it with an old toothbrush. I hang drag washers on a dowel rod and let them sit and run in the ultra sonic for a bit but not everyone has an ultra sonic. They could still have an oil residue on them. Using a degreaser will assure you that it's gone.

Lure ratings are just guidelines. Some rods are rated heavier than they are capable of and vice versa. You'll be able to tell if it's overloaded.

Fish it!

A quality fluoro offers good slack line sensitivity. It's nice for weightless plastics. The size line would be determined by where you are fishing at. Also compare line diameter not the poundage. One companies #8 could be another's #10. I tend to use 10-12 the most.

Simple green and a toothbrush on the drag washers. Rinse and allow time to fully dry. Then install dry. On drags that can be run dry, I run them dry. Drag grease helps with heat dissipation but in bass fishing it's not a big deal. I used to be an oil guy but I've changed my ways after a few conversations with Ian Shields. The spool bearings and ar bearing are the only thing I'll oil. Grease for other parts. Gears,worm shaft, and frame bearings. The result is a smoother reel.

It's now 100% Gooseified Sun - 11 fish in 2hrs on the wacky rig. Mon - 9 fish in 4hrs on the wacky rig. I also decided to get it a proper reel.

Yeah, I paid roughly $220 for both my px68's about 2yrs ago. The market has went way down since though. That part sucks for people who are trying to sell.

I use them a good bit. I like that it's design doesn't allow it to take on any water. The poppin frog is nice too. Just bend the hook points up a little.

No need to worry about corrosion in freshwater. Daiwa uses magnetic brakes and they don't require oil on the spool inductor. Shimano uses centrifugal brakes and oiling the drum isn't a bad idea if it's making noise. Though if it isn't noisy then it's up to you. I never oiled any of my Shimano's and never had any issues. Some of their newer reels it's recommended though. Use some denatured alcohol and clean them good then lightly oil with a low viscosity oil and qtip. Clean spool bearings could be a part of it due to requiring less effort to cast. Try turning the brakes up a tad and see where you're at.

Where there is grass... there is bass! #15 cxx I can't imagine trying to use it for a trick worm. I tried #12 and it acted like a slinky to me. I went down to #10 and it did decent. However, I went back to braid and use it as a leader now. Braid size depends on how thick of vegetation you're fishing. My heavy cover may be your medium cover, and vice versa. I run #15 on spinning and #30 on casting. #50 on my frog rod since I'm dealing with lilly pads.

This was the minus 1 from yesterday. I had to wait to pick it up this morning.

Family photo - minus 1 Happy 4th ???

Yeah, I'm not sure. It depends on what you're looking for. It's rated as an F6 and in Megabass speak it's a medium heavy.

Suffix 832 meets the criteria in my opinion. If bleeding wasn't a concern 'it's not to me' then J braid is a solid choice. It's slowly replacing 832 on a lot of my setups.

Might as well show it off before I sell it. Not what I was looking for.

I have my dream on a tour versatile. Nice combo for sure. I have my eye on a different rod if you're interested in it.

Braid is less abrasion resistant to rocks than a nylon line. If it's cutting through #16 fluoro then it'll slice right through #30 braid.

That wouldn't have anything to do with the brakes, and that reel has magnetic brakes not centrifugal. You would use the spool tension knob to set the lures fall rate. It's the small round knob behind the drag star. Setting it that high on a bait that heavy will hurt casting distance. It's not required. Set spool tension to eliminate any play and turn your mag brake dial to about 3/4 of the way. Then adjust brakes as necessary until you find your sweet spot. I've never zero'd my brake dial on any of my Daiwa reels.

That wouldn't have anything to do with the brakes, and that reel has magnetic brakes not centrifugal. You would use the spool tension knob to set the lures fall rate. It's the small round knob behind the drag star. Setting it that high on a bait that heavy will hurt casting distance. It's not required. Set spool tension to eliminate any play and turn your mag brake dial to about 3/4 of the way. Then adjust brakes as necessary until you find your sweet spot. I've never zero'd my brake dial on any of my Daiwa reels.

Megabass Orochi XX Diablo Spec R It's a special rod for sure.