rippin-lips

I'm very new to the swimbait world but I asked a lot of questions before I purchased anything. Also researched anything I could on SU. A member on here helped to get me started with a small collection of baits. Here are the ones that I was either recommended or found out about through my readings. All are proven to work though. Some are pricey and some are very reasonable. Another piece of advice I was given. Is not to go crazy and but a bunch of baits. Pick up a few and learn how to use them. 9" ms slammer 8" triple trout Topwater rat bait 'tons of choices' Mattlures hardgill in ss 'good luck' There's a lot of other proven gill baits too. R2S S waver 200 and some like the 168 Spro bbz 8" and some prefer the 6" Hudd 68's and 8" Savage gear 8" line through Osprey line through 3:16 Rising son and some like the mission fish

I have 1 brake set on my cardiff 301. You don't need 3 on. I can promise you that.

Use the other end to get it started and pushed down flush. Then flip it around and use the pin end to finish pushing it out. This is how I've done it since day one. Never an issue and I've used it a bunch. Maybe give that a try.

I own them both. Personally one doesn't really outshine the other as they both do their intended job. I prefer the Hedgehog tool though. I feel it's less of a hassle. It's easier to make very small adjustments with and it's not very big. The grips on the pliers move around and it's annoying to me. I also usually have to get the pin started pretty good before the pliers will fit. As in hold them closed and use the tip to push the pin in far enough that they'll fit. No need for that with the hedgehog tool.

The reel can be had for $120 new. I see them go for about $100 used. The rod was $160 new but I've never paid attention to what they go for used. I'd say probably $90-100 would be a good guess. Since they have the pro model out now it might be had for even cheaper than $160 new. So in the end it's entirely up to you. To me it's not a bad buy, but you aren't getting it for some crazy low price either.

I bought a few of the syringes from southern states. Great idea in theory but for me when trying to push the plunger very very slowly to get only 1 tiny drop of oil to come out. It proved to be harder then I though.

Todays buy - SV1000 spool for my Steez 103

That reel does not have that feature.

Part #'s F02-8201 leaf spring holder $1.80 F03-2401 leaf spring $0.50

Correct but I'm pretty sure you're just missing the 2 small parts. There's no reason you should have the shorter driveshaft in yours. Seems like a slip up during assembly or something like that. I bet if you call Daiwa and tell them what happened and maybe forward them the email. They'll send you the parts at no charge.

Yes,that should do the trick. I know to do the conversion on other reels. You have to use the driveshaft from a pxr. Try adding the spring and the holder first. You should be good with just those.

I don't think that's correct and whoever you are talking with is wrong about adding it part. People take the px68 which is the jdm version of the pxr and add the clicking drag using pxr parts. The crappy part is it's about $75 for the conversion parts. Less for you since your reel already has the majority of them though. The drag star is the most expensive part @ $29 Can you post a pic of your reel?

The leaf spring and leaf spring holder will run you $2.30 direct from Daiwa. Plus their shipping charges. I'm still confused as to why yours doesn't click though. It's a stock feature on that reel.

Dang sorry to hear that. That's kind of a bummer.

Abec 5 is all you need. The 7's are just more of an enthusiast upgrade. I'll also second the Hawgtech bearings. Plenty of folks on here really like them.

Soak the spool in a sink full of warm water for about 15 minutes. Then spool your reel. Also kvd l&l helps with the memory issues of fluoro.

You just ruined his whole way of thinking,Mike.

I haven't used it yet since I just got it a few weeks ago but here is my new to me rig. It's how I got it. Perception sport - caster 12.5 X wing 3 switch console Scotty rod holders Ram mount Cuda 300 Bilge pump Lighted compass in console Anchor trolley Only things I've done was made a stakeout pole using some 3/4 solid fiberglass rod and added some plastic dividers to a milk crate. Will be adding a lid here soon. I also completely redid the wiring inside the console to my likings and epoxied a piece of 3/4 pvc to the transducer. Now it sits in the scupper hole nice and snug using a piece of pool noodle. Currently collecting old phone chargers to make rod leashes out of. A new seat will be installed before spring.

Production off the shelf Powell Endurance rods.

A metal spring under the drag star. It's shaped like a wishbone sorta kinda.

Haha that guy doesn't know about your 'problem'

I love my endurance's. The balance point of each is perfect. I like the endurance better than the max. Sadly those 2 series have been grouped together now and we have the max 3d. I've talked with Keith and he said the new series is even a bit better than the endurance's. New blank design. However I've had to find a new rod company to go with on any future buys. I don't like the looks of the 3d series, and I f I'm spending almost $200 or more on a rod I wanna like everything about it. You can find the old models on sale from different places. The endurance is hard to beat for the money. I still have 3 of them in my rotation. I've been through my fair share of rods too. TW had them for $118 a few weeks back. I've spoken with a few members on here that needed some questions answered. They all have been glad they made the purchase.

Meguiars quick detailer to wipe down rods and reels after an outing. I wax them over winter but this keeps them shiny throughout the season. A firm short bristle paint brush for apply grease to gears. You can cut one down to firm it up too.

Great looking combo,Trey. Some of y'all might need to brush up on your math skills though haha

Were you drinking when you made this comparison? HahaKnobs can easily be switched out. For me the lexa knobs are clunky feeling. Too big. I've never had a single issue with leader knots. Unless you are using #50 mono or something, I don't think you should either. The Alberto,Albright,uni/uni all pass through using up to #20 Fluoro with braid up to #65. If you can service a Lexa then you can service a tatula. Not much difference internally. The tatula has a bearing supported pinion gear and the lexa does not. Having had both apart to the frame and using them both. I can say the lexa is nowhere near as solid/refined feeling. However I understand that this is all your opinion and I accept that.