Poolshark

Bps extreme is a decent one. 3 piece rod with a good quality case.

For the 5" + senkos, I like to use a 7 mhf rod. For the 4" senkos I like to use a 61/2 to 7 ft medium fast spinning rod. It might be an error or poor mechanics on my part, but I find my hookup ratio is a lot better with the longer rods, especially on a longer cast.

I use both and they are both great. it would come down to price for me. If the carbonlite was on sale I'd take it all day. At regular price though, I like the NEW mojos. they balance much nicer than the previous version and I've always liked st croix customer service. Either of these two rods will do well for you.

I'm afraid that might not be enough rod for what I'm talking about.

Keep the drag tight, set the hook and winch the bass out before it turns into the cover. I generally keep my drag looser with light line and light cover. I keep it tighter with heavier line and stouter rods. And when flipping with braid and a pool cue, my drag is pretty much locked down. The line ain't breaking. The rod won't either of you are using the right one.

Thank you gentlemen for your feedback. I'm going to give it a shot.

I've used braid, mono and fluorocarbon for senko fishing. I have a preference for 12 to 17 pound floro on casting gear. I use12 and 14 pound mono as well with no issues. The floro is a bit more sensitive and has a little less stretch on a longer hook set. I'm sure braid with a floro leader is great, but I'm a minimalist and hate tying leaders.

I have not checked out those rods yet. This particular model caught my eye because it was in store, but they didn't have a heavy powered model which is what I was originally considering. Yet when I looked at it, it seemed more like a heavy powered rod that might handle the slop I usually fish in. I will also look into the powells. Thanks for the suggestion.

Does anyone have any experience with the 76 medium heavy fast version? I'm looking to replace my frog rod and came acrossed it at a local shop.... seems stout enough. Id like a new rod to fish frogs and maybe pitching baits in heavy cover. What else might this rod be useful for? Does it have enough backbone for these apps? I'm also looking at just buying another heavy powered carbonlite.

I bought a 300 to receive a free rod with it. I felt ambivalent towards it at first. But it performs like it should and does what it is supposed to. I don't like how it feels pulling the side plates off to access the breaks. It seems flimsier that what I accustomed to. it came with a free ghost rod. So if it lasts, than great, if it doesn't, than I don't care.

I agree with putting one on your rod to see how it feels and balances. To me this will increase your satisfaction with the reel you buy. Out of all of my spinning reels, I love my old shimano stradics the most .. One of which I use regularly that is now 14 years old. It is my absolute favorite spinning reel of all time. Otherwise I've been getting into the penn reels on the spinning side and I am loving the new Penn battle for 99 bucks. It's a great feel for its price.

On the bps website, the carbonlite rod and proqualifier reel combo start at 159. Why not spend 10 extra bucks and get a decent rod and the pq reel.

I bought a fenwick eagle a few weeks back for my brother to learn on. It suprised me for its price. It also states a 5 year warranty as a bonus. i am also fond of the bps extremes when on sale. They arent super high end rods but i own a few and have caught hundreds of bass on them with out any issues whatsoever. They can be had for 79 on the bps website. Berkley has some decent cheap sticks as well. Ive used all but the shock over the years and they could get the job done in a pinch.

The odds are slim anywhere. I live in florida and have logged every bass ive caught in the past two years and have caught one bass weighing over 10 pounds and two bass weighing 9 and change. This is out of hundreds of bass caught. I will say this... Ive noticed alot more big bass on 10+ inch worms and big spinnerbaits when i can get them to hit. Also, im sure that live bait can increase your odds. 19% seems like a high estimate to me. Unless you are specifically targeting the giants.

Unless that type of reel had sentimental value to me.....than no, i would not

I agree whole heartedly that the loomis line is not its best with the e6x. I was more refering to the characteristics of the mbr843c vs st croix 71 mhf. I own an nrx and e6x, there is no comparison in sensitivity. I also own the ltb and mojo 7'1 mhf. Id still think the loomis more well rounded of a rod than either of the two croix. I own both of those as well and love them for what i ise them for

If you havent seen it.. Its a 7'1 med/fast rod that will throw your fluke jr, finesse worms and wacky rigs really well. If you are going to use any deep crankbaits, id go with the mh mojo cranking rod. If you are going to throw smaller crankbaits and double as your topwater rig, go with the 7'4 mm. Its a better comprimise since you are starting with three rods.

I own both of those brands and like them both. I like the e6x mbr843c 7 mhf over the mojo 71 mhf rod. The 843 is strong enough to set a hook but it has a little bit more tip than the mojo and would be a much more versatile rod. The mojo is a broomstick that excells with jigs and worms. I use the 843c's to fishworms, jigs, senkos, flukes rattle traps, squarebills and spinnerbaits in and around cover and it does it all well. I would definetley choose it over themojo if i had only one medium heavy rod. I think the the mojo cranking rods are great, they are cheaper than the e6x and are glass composite. I would choose one from the mojo line to save money here. As for a spinning rod goes, the mojo plastics rod gets my nod. Not telling you what you should do, just telling you what i would do. As for the reels... I have never used those reels, so i cant give you an experienced opinion.

I used to use lefties exclusively. I have always felt more comfortable using my dominant hand to work the rod and set the hook and my non dominant hand to reel. Though a few years ago i went on a fishing trip and the only rods and reels available were righties. It initially felt difficult, but i got used to it after days of fishing. So now i have and use both without issue. Its really just practice and repetition. if you practice enough it will become second nature to you.

28 ipt is sufficient for most apps. Its not ideal for deep crankbaits but can be sped up or slowed down for whatever you are throwing. I have an assortment of different reels for different apps. But if i were to choose only one it would be the 6:8:1 over the 7:5:1.

I like them. So far so good. The only thing i personally dislike about them is the way the sideplate is opened. But Im sure that probably doesnt matter to most people. Im really having a hard time refraining myself from getting a 70 series hg.

Im a fan of bps carbonlites and curados. I own a few flipping setups currently and love this pair for the price, but to each their own. There is so much to choose from out there now that its hard to go wrong in your budget.

I use both. Depends on how much cover or grass i am fishing. I think the lighter line and rods with my spinning gear is alot more fun with the fluke jrs

I personally liked shorter rods in a kayak/canoe. When pitching or skipping lures I used a side arm/roll cast. Flipping with a long rod while sitting down can be rather uncomfortable, but you will adapt with practice. Sometimes it's the only way to catch fish.. My biggest annoyance with kayaks was the lack of a trolling motor or anchor when fishing out a spot, so id look at one with pedals. I'd personally prefer to buy a cheap small John boat or a wide bodied canoe so I could stand up comfortably. Just a thought.

Have you considered a g Loomis mbr 843c? welcome to the forum.