GPtimes2

These are larger than they look and super strong. Many uses. I use 3 on my docking tie up rope. One for the front boat cleat. One for the rear boat cleat. One in the middle of the rope. Allows for adjusting tension and length. Should work great for anchoring also.

If your manual says 87 is fine then it is designed to run with it. Higher octane is to inhibit pre-detonation. Some engines (high performance) run hotter and can cause ow octane fuel to ignite in the cylinder before the spark. This generally caused pinging/nocking noises. Maybe in some cases if your motor is running hotter than it should on a very hot day and under heavy load, you may have a need for a little higher octane. Ethanol has a little (maybe 1 or 3%) less energy. Same with winter blend gas. But the cost for no ethanol or summer blend out way the energy (milage) improvement. You can add sta bil to your gas and it will be fine for up to 2 years. A LOT of wasted money being spent on gas that is not called for or needed.

Look into portable/castable fish finders/sonar.

In the summer when it is hot and I troll for walleye/saugeye with my Bimini top up to shade from the sun, the short pistol grip rods maneuver and fit under it very well.

Look for obvious things like, worn carpet, soft spots in floor, dull finish, faded seats, cracks in fiberglass (especially corners), rusty trailer. Most of these indicate it was kept outside. Look for dry rotted tires. Tap on the transom with your fist knuckles and little pushing on in to see if it has any give in it (from water rot). And if can take a screw or two out from maybe a transducer to see if water comes out is also bad, especially if it is dark colored.

Already mentioned above, but I would second the Antares DC suggestion. Digitaka.com (Japan) has them for $479. Or keep watch for the Antres (non DC) to come back in stock. They are currently listed for $378. People who buy every high end reel there is will tell you how good these are (some say the absolute best). I would still recommend these even if they were $700. And they get to your door from Japan a few days faster than crossing the USA from a local vender.

Shimano Antares- buy from Digitaka for $377 and free shipping. It's worth coming up with the extra $27. Reported from enthusiast on Takle Tour, this is arguably the best casting real you can buy unless you like the DC's better.

I haven't figured it out in 50 years of fishing. But I never tried to scientifically. I only read up on it a few times. I have good days and bad days with highs and low (and winds from the east and west). About half of my larger fish came on high pressure, but they were one fish days. Here is a little trivia- The highest barometric pressure ever recorded was 32.01 inches. This reading was taken in Agata, Siberia, on December 31, 1968, during clear and extremely cold weather. The lowest known barometric pressure was recorded over the Pacific Ocean during a typhoon on October 12, 1979. The pressure was 25.9 inches.

I researched and tried orange seal, full ceramic, and cleaning existing bearings. Then I read about Hedgehog Studio air bearings. Do yourself a favor and order one set from them and compare to some others. Chances are you will end up replacing all your spool bearings with them.

Stren Magnathin for everything. Been using it for maybe 30 years it seems. I try other brands and types once in a while, but always go back to Magnathin.

I can tell a big enough difference in the high end that I want them. There is a diminishing beterness (is that a word)as you go up in price though. I have a Calais dc (since 2006), two Stellas (I purchased for the wife but she insists on triggers), so I claimed them), and 5 $200 to $400 various reels. Well, I found I would rather change lures than use the lesser. So now I have 3 Antares dc's and 2 more Stellas. I will be selling the others at a swap meet coming up. In the end, it's your money, spend it like you can or want.

As stated already, lots of variables. I can't say how many, but it would come down to the number of casts.

I did mine a month ago for the first time. After watching some you tube videos, I went a different way. I cleaned with magic eraser under warm water. Then I applied one coat of u40 to one and one coat of semi-gloss polyurethane to another (both casting rods). I liked the polyurethane look and feel much better. I did all my casting rods that way. I put 3 coats of polyurethane on all my spinning rods for added durability ease of cleaning, and a little more gloss. My hands don't touch the cork on the spinning rods (maybe a little), so I don't have to worry about them being to slippery when wet.

No, but I would take the red cap off and google search what numbers/letters I could. 22aj 24 volt didn't come up with anything like that.

Something else I should have mentioned was it is a 22' deep V that cuts through chop and wakes with ease. The conditions you normally go out in, your passengers aren't going to get bounced out of their seats.

I haven't seen a boat that is a better do it all boat than one of the aluminum deck boats (the fiberglass ones are set up different). See my avatar pic at the left. I bought a Lowe deck boat in 2003 and will keep it till I can't boat anymore (I am 64 so maybe another 20 years). It lounges, skies, tubes, fishes, or trolls. It has a tall Bimini top to protect from the elements when needed. It seats up to nine but also I can handle it by myself. I can bass fish in as little as 18" of water. It has 4 fishing chairs, two live wells, and LOTS of storage. I put an electric start 9.9 hp kicker on it that is controlled and driven from the consul (connects to my 140hp for steering). Mine can handle a 175hp but the new ones are rated for 200hp. Put one of these in your search, you won't be disappointed. Look at some these on youtub.

I didn't know about solutions till you brought it up. So you have a solution for the solutions by marking your own. How/where do you give or get solution?

Scroll down to the first video and there is a spec tab. 100# thrust at 36 volts and 78# at 24 volts. So that's the same as Garim at 36 but 2# less at 24. Something that is lacking with the transducer option is it only uses Lowrance or Simrad at med hi chirp 455/800 hz and down scan. So no high def or side scan. I am set on my Garmin and If it died out of warranty I would go back with it again. Nothing intriguing enough to switch to something else.

10# Stren Magnathin. Very thin and plenty strong and consistently good. I've pulled in 30# carp (not on purpose), and 15# flathead, and lots of others. I use this as an all purpose line. Just last year I started trying 4# and 10# braid on a couple spinning reals for finesse methods. But if I had to choose one for everything it would the 10# Magnathin.

I surprised anyone would want their livescope pointing attached to their trolling motor pointing. Two different needs. One is to control and move the boat and the other is to look for fish, structure, or just look around. I am also surprised at the number of people that go out in a boat and fish all day worry about moving a pole 2 or ten times. Or reaching over and changing it's direction. I hope that doesn't offend anyone. I am 64, retired, and consider myself moderately lazy. But when I fish for 6 to 10 hours, I feel like I worked all day anyway. Either casting all day, still fishing with 2 anchors out (and moving 5 times), or trolling with a pole in my hand all day (don't like to miss those light hits), the transducer pole doesn't add enough effort to mention.

Don't know if you are interested in used. There is a swap meet in Mogadore Oh on March 19. You can read about it on Ohio Game Fishing forums/lounge. I have a like new 1 hr used Shimano Stradic ci4 4000 (it seems small for that size) that I am taking (along with some bait casting). There should be some good deals there.

May be to late for my advice, if you passed on the deal today. I love the touchscreens and don't have a problem with prints or false touches. But something that hasn't been mentioned is the footprint. When you get to 12" screens and beyond, they start to take up more space and the button ones even more. If you could see both units in your space, you would see it is considerable.

I upgraded but haven't been on the water with it yet. I did a lot of research and you tube watching first. I think the consensus is about 30% increase in distance, less or no ghost tree, and no dead spots. Also, Garmin states an improvement of target separation. I think it was something along the lines of 15" compared to 24" from the old one, but I may be off on those numbers. You should be able to sale you 32 for about 300, so that offsets the cost a little. Or keep it as a spare. It was an easy decision for me, but everyone's money situation, needs, and value are different.

ALL of the Garmin head units require the use of the black box (GLS10) along with either the LVS32 (old) or the LVS34 (new) transducers. The box is the same for either. The 34 is an improvement of about 30% distance and target separation clarity, reduced ghost tree and dead spots. The 32 and box was on sale before Christmas for just under a thousand. You may be able to find them for that still. There are a lot of used 32 transducers for sale (from people who just bought a new 34 transducer) for an average of 300 that can be added to a new black box that cost 500 (total 800). Almost forgot that there is also a LVS62XR for deep or extended range, but it won't have the detail that most inshore fisherman want.

If you are using livescope anchored, the trolling motor location will be ok. If you are using it moving, or holding in the wind, you will want it on a pole. It's about useless trying to control the boat and point the livescope where you want it at the same time. I tried with the first panoptix I bought 4 years ago. Now I have livescope and it's going on a pole. I looked at homemade that others did, but ended up with fishing specialties. It pricey but I didn't like the homemade look/quality. Here is a link. https://fishingspecialties.com/