JustJames

My new fishing buddy always beat me at fishing. He beats me even on my own game, crappie fishing with my lures, my spot on his first time fishing for crappie. All he did was listen when I told him where to cast and how to move the lure. What he has over me is patient, adjustment and flexible.

For aldebaran 50 normally come with white brake shoe (2nd gen) while red is 1st gen on curado 200i. I’m not sure if those are different in braking performance. Now on scorpion 71 with only 2 out of 4, dont do that ever. I have done it (removed 1 out of 4) since I need brake shoes for my shallow spool. The spool will vibrate and make noise when cast, doesn’t benefit any casting distance whatsoever. The old shimano would have different brake type called VBS. Those are color coded as mentioned above. I use gray and clear so I can choose how light/heavy just like new shimano SVS with external dial adjustment.

I got the same as @MN Fisherlink but 4x4 4mil version. It is more heavy duty and big enough for 7/0 hook. Before this I use battery case for small hooks, a few Texas/dropshot weight which work well. I use 3700 Plano one compartment box (utility box) to carry all these when needed.

I would use dropshot with 4” worm, weight 1/16 1/8oz. Fish along shore against those brick wall. Another way is weightless finesse worm, fan casting. You will be surprised the bass stay pretty close to bank in those mad made pond in morning or evening.

I only use the ultralight version 04, it is only 1.5” but weight @3/16oz. I use this targeting crappie but bass like it as well. For bass I prefer RES over any others, it effective both yo-yoing or straight slow retrieve. The color I choose is for crappie so might not suitable for bass.

Yeah hula grub is great especially on standup jig head. I like it on 1/10 weedless Zman mushroom jig head (4” version). Lately I bought 100 pack of 1/8 shaky head which also work well with hula grub 5”. When nothing get bite, I always turn to hula grub.

Buy what you can afford and be happy with it, there is no such thing as cheap = expensive. They all can catch fish it is up to users not equipments.

For OP, when you buy a reel made in China, that what you got. Shimano is still way better than other brands out there, but you might get lemon once in awhile. To be able to complete with other cheap brand who order from Korean/China catalog, shimano has to rely on cheap labor and even some parts from China. Daiwa even worst the cheap C? reel also come from catalog order. With shimano at least they should stand behind their product, call them up send in for warranty if you have to.

You remind me that I haven’t swapped out my new handle for the 71. I got the new handle like 4-5 months ago lol. I ended up with SLX handle 90mm. The metanium handle doesn’t look good on 70 at all. There is no silver on 70 thus the silver handle gonna stand out too much. My opinion, I don’t care much about handle on my right hand reel. I can use from 80mm handle to 102mm handle. The long handle it is kind of get in my way sometime when cast (Steez ex with 100mm handle). The longest handle I have now is 102mm from Stephano 100XG. All other reels are stock. Now on my Lefty I want longer handle to be able to reel in smoother when fighting fish and I stick to it. Im not sure why you care about other opinion, it either you change handle because you like the look or it serve some purpose. A lot of Daiwa enthusiastic, they change handle that cost more than my reel. Shimano guys, we stuck with only a few option so do what you like. Curado 71 with SLX 90mm handle. My abu Alx with 90mm Frankenstein handle (Daiwa? Handle, shimano knob)

Like @Bluebasser86i avoid to fish treble hooks as much as possible day time or night time. Day time if I don’t have fish grip no treble hook, night time if I don’t have net or good landing spot no treble hook. I have converted the lure you listed to in-line single hook successfully. Headlight, I recommend “Coast Light” with at least dual lens or triple lens. I always have red/green light on (last 4-5 night on 3 AAA). The green light is brighter than red, enough to unhook and re-tie, no bugs no eye adjustment. It is bright that flash on my phone wouldn’t come on.

Congrats

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I did some experiments with crappie, as we all know Crappie fishermen are crazy about scent more than other lol. My friend and I were using the same lure and depth, I used nibbles he didn’t but I told him to cast where most crappie concentrated. I fish on the outskirts. This spot is where a lot of bait fish and a feeding ground which crappie can scatter out. The result he was outfish me 2:1 and he managed to catch 4 bass as well as the biggest crappie 15-16”. We both caught more than 30 crappie for sure. On the other hand he got a few light bite and missed hook while my bite is firm and obvious, bobbers went straight down or sideway, hardly missed bite or hookset.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYs-STUDIO-Baitcasting-spool-Keeper-fishing-reel-Spool-Box-Storage-Protection/122452474259?hash=item1c82bc7993:m:maJY4J-_Vv0LCF_cPeitYwg

Just like @Bluebasser86 I go barbless on treble hook all for safety of myself not so much for bass. For soft plastic, I used to crush the barb down when I fish with Fluke, the reason I gutted hook a couple of bass. Nowadays I don’t worry too much, and I don’t gutted hook fish that often anyway. I can live with loosing 1-2 bass a year, and my wife seems to enjoy the bass.

I don’t want to echo anyone else saying but just wanna give out some thought in detail. First spooling new line, mono or FC of course the line want to jump out of spool because the line haven’t develop small coil just yet and still remain memory from being in bigger coil (filler spool). Secondly bantam got silent tune bearing with spring in housing, this to prevent any vibration may occur from too loose of tension on unbalance on brake blocks. You will hardly feel in-out play on bantam , meaning you might not know you have spool tension too loose.

Do you plan to use fish finder on your kayak? I think you should be concerned more of transponder arm in water than paddle clip. I mount trolley on opposite site of where my transponder arm at which is the same size as my paddle holder (bungee cord type).

This, and you haven’t answer. The problem might not be the line itself but operators error. I’ve seen a lot here when ppl blame equipments before user. Another backlash fix which very popular, “apply some pressure on spool and reel the line in”. This method shouldn’t be use with FC line or small diameter line, period. Now snap off lure, are you sure it is at the kinks where you get backlash. There are more that can cause lure/line snap off.

It is just a myth that said if brake blocks not on opposite alignment, the spool might vibrate when cast. Is it true? Some what yes but in rare case. The vibration will cause some noise and a little distance. The shimano reels have a tight tolerance, the vibration shouldn’t be any noticeable or uneven brake blocks. For your SLX with 6 brake blocks, you can do 2 across, 3 every other, or 4X. I’m waiting for those shimano expert to come out and said that is not true lol.

Added**** BTW do not apply Line Conditioner if you line not reel in properly, line conditioner will make your like kinked (only temporary, will straight out after you catch a few fish) This post will be removed Within an hour. Lol

Glen post a video of back hand casting awhile ago. I don’t need any of those techniques either since I fish mostly alone and those docks in my lake are all floating dock with boat lift. I practice both just in case anyway.

IMHO, I don’t think it matter much as long as you can apply grease into those tiny teeth (trim paint brush help).

@garroyo130do you think shimano would say to use Okuma grease or Cal grease? Ppl has been using Shimano Star drag grease for years. I, on the other hand, tried different grease (corrosionX) since I found that Shimano Star drag grease aka ACT2 is brake apart too easily.

With fat Ika you have to enlarge the hole a little where hook point going through, otherwise you would end up with hook point buried into plastic instead of fish mouth (problem with Gama EWG). I normally don’t skin hook with fat Ika.

Did you make sure drag not too loose when spin the handle? Also make sure spool tension is not too tight. A drop of oil on both spool bearing might help, after that crank the reel a good few minutes to loosen up dry grease. Also worm gear might dry up, heavy oil or grease might be needed.