MN Fisher

Since I'm on a tight budget, all my Dobyns are Furys Casting: 703C, 704C, 705CB, 765FLIP Spinning: 702SF, 703SF I've also got a couple Okuma Reflexions spinning rods because they give me the power/action mix I can't get from Dobyns without going way over my budget, and a couple Aird-X casting rods that are in the queue for upgrading when I have the money.

My moving baits rig (chatter, spinner, etc) is a 7.9:1 reel on a MH/F rod. No need to go expensive, my rod is an Aird-X which works fine for moving baits. I also don't use paddletails on chatters - my preferred trailer is a Pit Boss...and it works fine. These were caught on a 3/8oz Z-Man Original with a 4" Pit Boss trailer.

Ya, they call it the Ned Senko, but it's a TRD by any other name. Expensive - is it worth it? Retail prices... Yama Ned Senko - 6 for $6 - $1 each Z-Man Original TRD - 8 for $4 - $0.50 each Zoom Beatdown - 10 for $4 - $0.40 each

That's going to be a standard low-back...same as I had in the canoe. If you look close at the casting deck, between the two forward/inboard dry boxes, there's a 'dark spot'. That's a hole in the plywood for mounting another kingpin base. I'll have a butt-seat on a 22" pedestal up there.

Man - welcome to our world. Heat index yesterday was 101 - Sunday and Monday are projected to be even higher. THIS IS MINNESOTA! We're not suppose to suffer this kind of crap.

Those teeth can shred braid too easily - go with the FC. Dunno if I'd use 100# though - 50# should be more than sufficient...though if you're targeting bass and getting the pike and musky as 'side catches', I'd go even lighter.

So close... Hatch lids are being sealed as well as the transition piece between the casting deck and TM deck. I'm gonna re-route some of the electrical - it's not much, just shifting the ends of the main runs from starboard to port in the bow. Manual for the outboard arrived - so now I can get to retrofitting an ECOS to it. I'm looking at early next week to complete it...then wait until the sauna abates before testing (I don't do well in the heat...)

I got two at the $200 retail level that I like Fuego CT-H/Fury 705CB - wonderful crank rig for the price Supreme/Fury 703C - this is my prime jerkbait rig, but also used for weighted wacky/shakey and other topwaters like a WP One I only paid $200 for - cause I got the reel used Patriarch/Fury 704C - this is my bottom contact/Jig rig - T-Rigs, Football, Swim, etc...I keep my eye on the used market cause the Patriarchs are wonderful reels IME.

Seachoice 71090 Emergency Multi-Purpose Telescoping Boat Hook and Paddle,

I'm getting withdrawals myself - so Friday morn I'm gonna do a little shore fishing. Sunday and Monday they're still predicting it to be worse than yesterday...which was... The F-9 is getting there - sometime next week I should have everything done (crosses fingers)

This isn't a full answer - but something to give you an idea. My old canoe I had a 75ah battery in that ran my 30# Endura, my Garmin Striker 7cv, my Galaxy Tab and two action cameras. While I did occasionally do full-speed runs to get to spots, mostly it was tooting around at 2 or 3 to a spot to anchor. I be out for 4-5 hours, come home, and my charger would show 60%-75% full - all depending on how many/long my 5-speed runs were.

That's true about all the brands that Doyo builds under contract. Each brand supplies the schematics, specifications and tolerances - and Doyo builds them to those.

My Fury 702SF - ML/F - is my prime finesse rod. DS, Ned, Neko, light Shakey and occasionally weightless Wacky. My now retired Daiwa 1312 - 6'6" ML/F has handled Walleye and Pike...and was the rod I caught my PB Northern on.

Swap the Gold Label for InvizX and that's my DS, Ned, Neko and light Shakey rigging.

1 Year sub to the app is 21.99+tax - will run on Android and IOS (download the base app from the appropriate store, then sign up within the app) Here's a screenshot of the 'Sonar' overlay of one of my regular spots- shows bottom hardness...the darker the red, the harder the bottom.

Yep - headquartered in Bemidji, MN. As I posted in another thread - I lived next door to John (founder) in the 70's when he was just starting out. Some of the lures he made back then might have been actually assembled by me as I worked part time during High School for him.

Yep - water temp, clarity, calm or chop, sunny/cloudy/rainy So many variables that I can't just pick one to start with every trip out.

Yep - dunno if they changed any of the internals with the name change.

It's always a good idea to have a circuit breaker - or at least a fuse - in any electronics circuit. The MinnKota has a board in it that can be damaged, rendering the motor useless, if it gets fried.

A few other forums have info on using wax to seal cork. Most still prefer U-40 - it's what I use - but a wax with a good percentage of Carnuba in it was also highly rated. Johnson's and Minwax paste wax were both recommended. http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40443

I upgraded all my reels that had oil-felt to carbon-fiber. A little Cals on the washer and not only did I increase drag strength, I didn't loose smoothness. Without Cals, you'll increase the drag more, but possibly loose the start-up smoothness.

A few of the humps on 'Tonka are fairly small. I can park in the center and run uphill around the entire thing. So ya, uphill here as well.

Ya - I'm going with all separate batteries on the F-9 100ah AGM - Trolling motor 35ah AGM - 'house' battery (lights, pumps, electronics) 24m Marine starting battery - for the 25hp 'Rude

Apartment dweller maybe?

I can get behind that