MN Fisher

We're the reverse here. Of the 11,842 lakes of 10 acres and larger in Minnesota (if, like Wisconsin, you don't put a size limit on...it goes to over 20,000) - not including the 'Pools' of the Mississippi caused by damming, only 2 are man-made and one is a private lake for a housing development.

Lakes/ponds - I don't have much of a chance to fish rivers though I did years ago...time element getting to a launch point is the main reason. I just want to see some trees in the water - around here they clear out all the laydowns...million dollar homeowners with lakeshore property don't want that 'unsightly' mess in their lake.

I have two of these - never needed anything else.

Not that I'm aware of - it takes a bit more effort to get the smaller rings on the tool, but it can be done...I use the second tool with smaller rings for Trick Worms and even Finesse Worms...got two different colors of the tool so I know which is which.

^ What he said - you took out the anti-reverse. The only way that bucket is staying is if you have your hand on the handle preventing it from going backwards...then the drag comes into play. Without the anti-reverse, the reel will act like you depressed the thumb-bar and it's going to free-spin.

@Boomstick - Dean, you're from that area...give the lad a little help? My knowledge of even central Mass is almost 50 years out of date as that's when we left Worcester.

Dirty slang for a part of anatomy

Ya - the Edge is too expensive for my taste...though a generous person here gave me a couple for Fish-mas. I'm using all Pro-Latch - a single 3707-04 Spinnerbait box, a 3700 (Squarebills and DTs) and the rest are 3701s

Stole that from me, you did. Every box has a compartment dedicated to the Dry Packs - 3-4 in each box. Replaced as part of my 'spring tune-up'.

He's posted several in the appropriate threads. Also on his FB page. Couple nice browns, a walleye and a trout.

Do you check it when the TM is operating? I seem to remember that my Striker 7CV showed a drop in voltage when I was running the TM on the canoe (only one battery ran everything)...came back up when the TM was shut off. The F-9 will have a dedicated TM battery, and another battery to run everything else.

That's pretty much the reason here in MN. Course your example of side-catching smallies while targeting walleye doesn't hold here...both species have the same closed season period - end of Feb to middle of May.

That might be it - the BFS model capacity is only 50yds of 8#mono - .28mm

Ya - but to go from the stated capacity of 105yds of .28mm to only 40 yds of .25mm- that line would have to be .45mm diameter...80% thicker than stated...that's a huge difference. Calculations done with https://www.pattayafishing.net/fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/

Ya - you'd want 14 or even 12 gauge to reduce that voltage drop to 3%...with 18gauge over that distance, you're getting near 10% drop. I'm running 16gauge for the electronics in the F-9...but my longest run is around 12'...which falls into the 3% category.

He gave the diameter - .25mm...which is right about standard for most 20# braids (Power Pro: .23mm, Sufix 832: .23mm, Smackdown: .26mm) 105yds of most 30# (.28mm) should get him about 130yds of 20#. Something's not right if he's only spooling 40yds and it's filled.

Not that I know of - and all my Fury rods (six currently) balance fairly well with the reels I put on them...spinning as well as casting.

Mine is the Eden Prairie store and it's huge. Ferris wheel, 2 lanes of rollerball, a couple archery lanes, a small arcade and a 16,000 gallon salt-water aquarium. Oh, and they also sell sporting goods. ?

If it isn't Tatsu on my reel - it's gotta be InvizX

I just took a gander at Amazon, where you can rank things by amount sold #1: Bobby Garland Crappie Baits #2: Yum Dinger #3: Zoom Trick Worm https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Fishing-Soft-Plastic-Lures/zgbs/sporting-goods/3409651

Every so often I re-sign up for a yearly - then remember why I let it lapse the last time.

Nice little variety there, pal. You should know that when he's quiet, he's plotting...not a good thing.

I looked over both at a local place and went with the YA Leverloc as it was easier to lock it down. The YG you have to wind the line around the cleat to 'anchor' it in place...and (according to the guy I talked with) it still sometimes slips. Far as the color - pick something...the 'rope' is just standard Paracord...but I don't remember if it's 425 or 550

Cheap way to practice - go get a Daiwa Sweepfire rod ($15) and the thread/epoxy of your choice. Cut the guides off the Sweepfire and re-attach them. Rinse/repeat until you're satisfied with your skill. Then fix the XP. Just takes the $15 for the rod and some time.

I installed that exact one on the canoe and it was wonderful. I could position the anchor so that no matter which way the wind was blowing, the canoe faced the direction I wanted it to. Drilling holes isn't a problem as the screws seal the hole well enough to prevent leakage.