MN Fisher

Budget? There's good cranking rods from $100 to over $500 - pick a flavor.

I'm swapping out all my Power Pro for Sufix 832 - I'd go Smackdown, but it's a bit more cost than my budget allows for full braid-replacement.

That rod will work for trout, bass and panfish just fine - catfish you want a stouter rod. For a catfish rod that'd double as a bass rod for heavier lures (chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, jigs, etc), it depends on what your budget is. I have an Okuma Reflexions MH/F that's my spinning rig for skipping jigs, chatters, spinners - it would also work for non-skipping purposes for those lures. It's stout enough to handle most catfishing as well - $75.

If we're going to denigrate species that aren't native... Better kill off all the Brown Trout as they aren't native to North America.

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Based on the stats, that looks like a decent Medium or Medium-Light+ rod. Great for finesse (drop-shot is one). Could also handle weightless wacky, light shaky head, and maybe Ned. Carolina rig does work for bass, but usually with heavier weights than that rod is designed for, but you could also do light T-Rigs (3/16 or less weights) with that.

I took a huge jump 1303 pts for the Neely Henry event, moved from 52nd to 12th in the group. The three of mine that made to day 4 placed 2, 3, and 6 - Seth just missed the cut and ended up 12th All-in-all, I'm very happy with this - especially considering it's my first year and I don't know most of the guys out fishing.

I agree and had that happen to me twice last week. Trying to find 3607-10 boxes, ordered from a couple places that showed in-stock on their site. Turns out they were out of stock, but sent the refund back to PayPal the next day. Not even Plano themselves know when those boxes will be in stock even on their own site...so subbed a couple 3715 (1/2 size, open compartment) boxes instead...I'll have those by the end of the week. This is how it should be - you don't have it, refund the payment...don't make the customer sit waiting forever.

At 6'1" and 200, I wouldn't want to try to stand in that one. BTW John, you are tiny.

I wouldn't expect this to last more than a season or two depending on how hard you use it - but it seems to be a decent reel for general use.

I'm impressed - maybe I can do it again for Guntersville.

You're all tuckered out from being snarky all the time.

Retired.

I still get a kick out of the airboat they sometimes keep at the Spring Park Bay facility docks.

You want backbone? How about the one I have for skipping jigs/spinners/chatters as I can't skip with a BC worth a darn. Okuma Reflexions RX-S-701MHA - 7', medium-heavy/fast. $75

Easy way to look at it based on above water. Structure is the hills, valleys, cliffs, etc Cover is the grass, bushes, trees, etc.

No confusion - and sounds like you got your rig ready to go...long as the lines are quality.

To each his own, pal - but you don't know what you're missing...a good scalp massage is heaven.

Old Town Topwater 106 - 10'6" long, 73lbs - $900. Pelican Catch PWR 100 - 9'9" long, 75lbs - $1000. Probably the best bets for quality standable yaks that aren't too big or heavy.

Nope - Bass, walleye, northern and muskie close the last day of February. Muskie opens June 5 this year, the rest open May 15 - bass for C&R only until the 29th when you can finally keep them. Use to be, bass didn't even open until the Saturday of Memorial weekend...few years ago they finally allowed C&R to open when walleye/northern opened.

There's guys here who know WAY more than I do...stick around and you'll find them Once it starts - Bass season is closed here for another 4-1/2 days (Opens at 12:01 am Saturday). Hope to do better than I did last year - course I only got the canoe on the water 6 times all 2020. You too - but don't snap them.

Ya - which is why they mainly patrol around Big Island...and even have a dock with county vehicle parking only just across Smith's Bay. Which irks me...that use to be a parking/shore fishing spot until the county 'stole' it.

If you get down to the backing on a cast...time to remove the remaining mainline and re-spool new on. You should never get to the knot between backing and mainline on a cast. It's just an OCD thing with me to keep the two near the same diameter - nothing more.

10# braid would work fine for finesse as well - that's what I have on my 702 - with 6# Seaguar InvizX for the leader and 6# Sufix Elite as backing. I like to keep the backing and mainline close to the same diameter...

I would put a FC leader on that - which I do on my 702. If you're going 20# braid, then go with an 8# leader - I'd suggest InvizX as it's pretty tough and supple (for FC).