Tennessee Boy

You may not be an economist but you sure seem to know what you’re talking about. Those who think inflation is bad have not been around very long. It was 7.01% in 2021 and has been dropping slowly. It was 13.29% in 1978 and 12.52% in 1980 so it’s been a lot worse. The 3 month treasury bond rate is currently 5.0% and the 10 year rate is 3.4%. That suggests that the smart money thinks inflation will continue to drop. My only concern is that if more banks fail the fed might have to back off their rate hikes which would limit their ability to fight inflation.

When the water level changes significantly I just keep fishing but I do get discouraged. ☹️

That’s pretty much what I did before I got Target Lock. It’s nice to use both at the same time.

It certainly works fine on the Ultrex as long as you don’t use the Ultrex features that you paid extra for.

Looked up raccoon distemper and the symptoms listed matched what we observed exactly. He seemed drunk. I can just imagine one of the kids grabbing him to take home as a pet and then have him turn into a Tasmanian devil.

I was thinking about you @TnRiver46 today. We were getting ready for an Easter Egg hunt at church this morning when a raccoon wander aimlessly into the church yard. He seemed kind of disoriented and everyone started worrying that he might be rabid and could be a threat to the kids. He eventually wondered off but was spotted again across the street during the Easter Egg hunt. We had someone watching him the whole time to make sure he didn’t cross paths with the children or try to make off with any Easter eggs. ?

I don’t understanding why your friend believes that you need an Ultrex for active target. I have an Ultrex and MEGA Live. Initially, I mounted Live on the Ultrex, but it was annoying. I paid for features like Target Lock and Autopilot on my trolling motor but I couldn't use them and Mega Live simultaneously. I solved this problem by adding Target Lock last fall and mounting the MEGA Live transducer to it. Another issue with trolling motors such as the Ultrex that rely on a motor instead of a cable for steering is that they limit how quickly you can steer. This is also true for Target Lock, which is controlled by a motor. While not a significant problem, there are times when I would like to steer faster. For example, tracking an individual fish in open water requires constant turning to keep up with the fish's position. Although I don't pursue individual fish often, I wish my Live transducer was on a cable steer motor when I do. The Ultrex is a great trolling motor but is not ideal as a Live imaging mount.

I had mine removed about 20 years ago. I survived. I had a hernia fixed at the same time so they punched more holes in me than if it was just gall bladder surgery. It was not a big deal. Any use of my stomach muscles hurt for a couple of days. I had the surgery on Thursday and was back to work on Monday.

You nailed it. In seven days I will have been retired for one year. I’ve been very busy. I fish a lot but not as much as I thought I would. I didn’t realize that the weather would join forces with other things in life to keep me off the water as much as possible.

You will love spot lock. FYI, it gets really exciting when you fire up the outboard and forget to pull the trolling motor up with spot lock on. ?

I’m accurate to within about half an ounce. I weigh almost all of my fish and sometimes my scales are way off.?

Is that a pet sitting beside you or a coworker?

I always fish for bass in the water. Other than that I don’t use the word always in bass fishing. ?

Ha ha, I’ve lived in Wilson county for a little over two years. I fish Old Hickory a lot but can’t say I’ve figured it out. Maybe you can teach me how to fish it.

We have several pay lakes that are managed by the state wildlife resources agency. You can pay per visit, pay an annual fee, or purchase a Sportsman’s license which includes licenses for just about everything for hunting and fishing. I’ve never been to one of these lakes but I keep saying I’m going to now that I’m retired. ?

I would probably go with this battery for $70. https://www.amazon.com/CHINS-LiFePO4-Battery-Protection-Perfect I might even keep using the existing charger. It might not fully charge the battery but you probably don’t need the full 20ah anyway. If you ran the battery all the way down to where the BMS shut it down, your existing charger probably wouldn’t be able to restart it but there are workarounds for that. It’s a cheap battery for a lithium so it might not last more than 10 years. You live in luxurious Lebanon Tennessee so you can probably afford to replace it when the time come. ?

If you point the transducer forward at 45 degrees it would look similar to what you see when it’s pointed straight down over a 45 degree sloped bottom. There’s a lot of places for fish to hide from view in both situations.

My guess is your charger is trying to kill you. If it can’t get you by electrocuting you it may try to burn your house down. Seriously, I would kill the power to the charger until you figure out what’s going on. You left out a lot of details like what you were doing when you got shocked so it’s hard to say what’s going on. What did you touch that shocked you?

Have you tried running the graph with just one battery? If not, it seems unlikely that all three batteries are bad. One bad battery in parallel with two good ones could produce the results you are seeing. A bad battery can show good voltage that will drop under load. I would try each battery alone and see how long each will run your graph.

How do you know? Who assembles Ionic batteries? What cells do they use? What are the specs on the BMS? I’ve only seen one tear down of an Ionic battery and it was one of the smaller ones. The guy did not give them a favorable review but it was mostly trivial stuff in my opinion. They may be the best that money can buy but there is no way to know. It is more expensive to use cylindrical cells but they provide redundancy. Most batteries use 4 prismatic cells. If one of the cells fails the battery fails. A battery with 100+ cylindrical cells will lose some capacity if a cell fails but it will still function.

I did a lot of research before buying my first lithium last year. I agree with everything mentioned in the video for the most part with one exception. There is no standard for grading so one manufacturer grade B might be as good or better than another’s grade A. I ended up buying a Battle Born. They are a reputable US company that engineers and assembles their batteries in the US using Chinese cells. Their batteries cost a lot more than cheap Amazon batteries. They make better batteries for sure but that’s not really why I went with them. If we don’t want China providing all of our stuff then we have to stop buying from them whenever possible. Battle Born seems like the best US option for me because they are designed here, assembled here, but unfortunately use mostly Chinese parts. I would also add that just because you pay more doesn’t mean you are getting more. I’ve seen no evidence that Dakota or Ionic batteries are any different than a cheap brand off Amazon. They might be but how would you know. Just because they cost more doesn’t mean they are better. Other than the fact that I don’t want to support China, I would not be afraid to buy a lithium battery from Amazon. There are people who are tearing them apart and testing them on YouTube. This helps expose the worst offenders. I think it’s true that the long term capacity of some of these batteries may drop due to the quality of the cells used and how well they’re matched. I also think most consumers will never notice.

I’ve thought about what I would do in your situation. There are so many options. A single 24V battery was mentioned earlier. I looked into it and there are no low cost 24v lithium batteries. A 50ah 24V Ionic is $890 compared to their 100ah 12V which is $699. Both batteries provide the same amount of watt hours of power. There are also no cheap 24V batteries on Amazon. This makes sense now that I think about it. At the high end, it’s different. Battle Born sells their 24V 50ah battery for $849 which is actually a little cheaper than their 12V 100ah which is $874. These batteries have 120 small cylindrical cells so the only difference between 12V and 24V is the way the cell banks are wired. Virtually all of the lower cost brand 12V batteries have 4 prismatic cells wired in series so stepping up to 24V means doubling the number of cells. This obviously adds to the cost. Going to 24V would increase your performance. The cheapest way to do that would be two 12 volt batteries in series. You can get two Chins 12V 50ah batteries from Amazon for $210 each. If two batteries is not an option then I would go with a cheap Amazon 12V 100ah battery which can be had for around $430. A battery shunt can help you manage your battery usage so you don’t get stranded. Another option would be a small “emergency” battery. A 12V 20ah Chins battery is $70 on Amazon. It wouldn’t take much space and should have enough power to get you home if your main battery died. It’s maximum power draw is probably around 20 amps so you wouldn’t be able to run at top speed with it.

I ran a Solix 9, a Solix 15, 360, Mega Live, a network switch, a heading sensor, and a GPS puck on my cranking battery which is a X2 Power group 27. I never worried about keeping the battery charged and I never had a problem starting the motor. Last year I added a battery just for my electronics because I was having various problems with the electronics caused by the voltage drop when I cranked the motor. Solix units are notorious for their voltage sensitivity. My guess is you’re getting a warning on your fish finder when you crank the motor. The voltage is going to drop a lot when you start the motor and that might cause some problems with your electronics. I wouldn’t expect it to cause any damage. So to answer your question, I would guess you can go several hours without cracking the motor but expect some warning messages and possibly some other issues when you crank the motor.

I need to disagree with some statements made in this thread. First - When you run two batteries in series you double the voltage but not the amp hours. Running two 12 volt 50 ah batteries in series will give you 24 volts and 50 ah. Second - The lithium industry likes to say that you should never discharge a lead acid battery below 50% of capacity therefore the capacity of all lead acid batteries is actually half what they claim. They also state that this is not true with LifePo4 batteries. This is not completely factual. With both battery technologies, the depth of discharge affects the life of the battery. Lead acid batteries are affected more but it is wrong to suggest that something terrible is going happen to you battery if you ever go below the 50% threshold. Many people accepted this marking hype as fact. Here is a good video that explains this issue.

I’m not familiar with all brands but using a y cable to do that doesn’t make sense to me. There are Y cables that let you separate out side imaging so you can mount separate side imaging transducers and the multiple transducers will look like a single transducer to the unit. If two units tried to use a single transducer at the same time through a y cable it would not work and might even cause damage. The only reason I can see why you would want to share one transducer with two units would be to save the cost of a network cable. The cables are not that expensive and will let you do what you want and much more.