Bankc

Some battery chargers have a desulfate, or battery repair mode. I don't know how well they work. But if yours has one, it might be worth a shot. But I wouldn't go out and buy a charger with that feature and expect it to fix any problems. It's more of a Hail Mary type thing.

Domo arigato gozaimasu!

Daiwa (and Shimano) doesn't make a bad reel. So I think you'd be satisfied with any of them so long as your expectations aren't too high. Still, the Fuego is a definite step up to the next level. And it might last longer and save you money in the long run, but it won't catch you more fish. But who knows? You might wear out the Revros around the same time you decide you're ready to spend $900 on a Daiwa Exist, or decide you don't like spinning reels after all and go BFS, or give up fishing and take up hang gliding. As for the leader, that's something a lot of people like to do with spinning reels. Braid doesn't seem to mind getting twisted as much and doesn't have much of a memory. Plus it tends to last longer. The downside is braid is much more visible and noisy in the water than either mono or fluoro. And sometimes it can be too limp and get tangled up in your hooks on the cast. So the braid + leader is kind of the best of all worlds. You get all the advantages of braid on the reel, and all of the advantages of fluoro or mono at the lure, at the same time. The downside is the leader knot to connect the two. They can be a bit difficult to tie and add a weak point of possible failure. That and you don't get to take advantage of the stretch that mono can give you or the slack line sensitivity of fluoro because most of your line is braid. Everything's a compromise.

Mine is a Weize. I suggest you check out Will Prowse's DIY Solar Power YouTube channel. He has lots of tear downs and reviews of various brands of lithium batteries. He's more focused on solar power banks than trolling motors, but the batteries are the same. So I'd just find a couple that look like good deals and check out his channel to see if he has reviewed that brand and what he says about them.

Yeah, my FG knot frequently goes into the spool on both my spinning and casting reels. It's not an issue for me. But I don't leave my tag ends all that long. Maybe 1/8". If I'm concerned about it coming undone, I'll melt the tip to give it a stop. But that's a rare occurrence. If you tie it tight and set it good, you don't need a lot of tag end. But the longer tag end does buy you some insurance against not tying the knot as tight. So If I'm confident in how I tied the knot and how it looks, I'll leave less of a tag end on it. If I'm less confident, I'll leave a little extra. I do the same thing with all knots.

That sounds like a good setup to me. I think you'll be happy with it. As for the line, it's personal preference. If you like fluorocarbon, then you can certainly use it with a spinning reel. Lots of people do. But, for me personally, I wouldn't want fluorocarbon on a spinning reel, and especially not one without an excellent line management system. I have a Daiwa Regal LT, that's more or less identical to the Revros LT, and I had problems with line twists and wind knots with it while using fluorocarbon. I switched to braid with a fluorocarbon leader, and those problems have largely gone away. I'm not saying the line management on the Regal (or Revros) is bad, because it works fine with mono and braid. But it's not a $500+ reel, so there are bound to be some compromises. Now, I will say that I didn't use high end fluorocarbon line. Perhaps if I had used better line, I wouldn't have had those issues. So, if you do choose to try fluorocarbon on that reel, I'd get some good fluoro, like Seaguar InvizX, Tatsu, or similar. Maybe use a mono backing to save some money in the long run if price is a concern.

Here's my experience. I have a 12-foot kayak with an Endura C2 30 on it. I started with an 85Ah lead acid deep cycle battery. It worked fine, but it was 65lbs. I switched to a 50Ah lithium battery, and it works just as well, but weighs under 15 lbs. Not only that, it has a higher voltage which translates to slightly more speed. Plus it's easier to place in my kayak because 15lbs can go just about anywhere whereas 65lbs needs to be balanced. Another advantage to lithium batteries is you can discharge them to 10-20% of their max charge and they'll be fine. Lead acid batteries, even deep cycle, don't like to be discharged below about 50%. So you get almost double the usable amount of charge off a lithium battery. They also have about 2-5x's the lifespan of lead acid batteries. Both lasted me all day without any problems. When I bought the lead acid, it was with the intention of upgrading at a later date to a lithium, as lithium batteries were really expensive at that time. Now, they're much more affordable. So I'd recommend the lithium. 50Ah would be a good compromise between size, weight, and cost. But 100 Ah lithium batteries are generally not that much more expensive (this is the most popular size) but weigh twice as much and take up twice as much space. My original plan was to try one 50Ah, and if it wasn't enough, add a second. It's more costly that way, but it turns out I didn't need more, so I saved money, weight, and space. So, anything between 50-100Ah would probably be fine. If you plan on doing lots of long runs, the 100Ah would get you 3 hours of run time at full speed with a little left over. The 50 Ah would only get you half that. And the way these trolling motors work, each speed setting (1-5) takes about twice as much power as the speed setting below it, up to 30ish amps on speed 5. And the higher you go up the speed settings, the less of a gain in the speed you actually see. So you can get almost double the run time at speed 4 and probably only loose around 15-25% of your speed (or distance). So you often need less battery than you think you would if you calculate it out, because most people don't run around at full speed all day. Typically, you'll want to spend more time fishing than driving around.

I've got a glide bait that mostly catches catfish. Both channels and flatheads. I'm inclined to think it could just be luck or maybe where you're fishing with it. In my experience, pretty much anything that will catch white bass will catch black bass. Not always vice versa though (white bass don't seem to go for bottom contact lures to often). Often the difference is where you're fishing. But who knows. There could be something unique about this bait that turns black bass off.

They're different, but I don't use them in different situations. I just try one, and if it's not working, I try the other. The biggest advantage of a jig is the different head shapes for different kinds of cover. The biggest advantage of the Texas rig is being able to cheaply own a bunch of different weights and pegging or not pegging the weight to adjust the rate of fall. The jig also has a larger profile and a bit more action with the skirt. But really, it's best to try both and let the fish tell you what they're in the mood for that day.

Again, these are referencing lithium-ion batteries, not lithium iron phosphate, which are the batteries you'd use in boats for trolling motors and such. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are much less likely to explode and catch fire (about as safe as lead acid or AGM) and don't require nasty metals such as cobalt and manganese. And, the unfortunate truth is, if you want to mine any metal, it's going to be nasty and ugly. Metals just don't appear in giant chunks by themselves on earth. So to extract any metal, you're going to have to destroy a lot of land and there's going to be hundreds, thousands, maybe millions of times more waste material than the metal you want. Which means you're going to have to refine it, a process that creates tons of pollutions, both in the air and in the water. And lead, from the lead acid batteries, is one of the most environmentally destructive metals you can mine. Which is one reason why you pay a core charge, to encourage you to recycle some of that lead to slow down the rate at which we mine lead and keep that lead in the garbage from leaking into our water supply. Lithium batteries, both lithium ion and lithium iron phosphate (or any metal battery really) can also be recycled. We just don't do it because they're relatively new and the infrastructure needed to do that at a scale to make it profitable hasn't seen much investment yet. That'll change in the future as more EV's get old and wind up in the scrap heap. We don't generally do it for phones and such, because it's very time consuming to dismantle the phone and get that tiny battery out. Newer phones don't like to let you have access to the battery. So it's not profitable to recycle lithium today. It's kind of a darned if you do, darned if you don't situation. There's just not a good solution that doesn't involve some level of compromise with this stuff. If there was a perfect solution, it wouldn't be something we'd discuss because we'd all just know the answer. Like breathing air. No one's running around saying we should inhale dirt or water. Air is the perfect solution to the breathing problem.

Oklahoma's isn't too bad. A lifetime hunting/fishing is only $775. Annual fishing is $25 and lifetime is $225. I do the 5 year for $88. And, since I fish from a motorized kayak, no state boat fees or registration! However, I do have city boat registration fees to use my kayak in my local lakes. Plus city fishing permits. Those run $55 a year ($20 fishing, $35 boating). And that's a bit high, but if I got angry enough, there are quite a few lakes just outside of city limits that I could fish. Some are free. Some have daily fees for both fishing and boating. And they usually run about $8-15 a day, so that $55 pays for itself after about 7 trips. So it's not ridiculous. My only real complaint about the system is they run on the calendar year. So if you decide you want to go fishing on New Year's Eve, an annual license just lasts for a few hours. And a daily expires at midnight. And you can't order ahead of time. So I have to wait until after January 1st to renew my annual. Which means I often fish the first week of the year without a license before something, like this thread, reminds me to renew.

Google Earth or maps.google are good for general scouting. I usually do the normal, view for hunting and then go the satellite view for more information (it's usually easier to identify water in the normal view). From there, I'll go to the regular old Google and search "Lake Boblaughblaw Depth Chart" and see what it brings up. More times than not I wind up at gpsnauticalcharts.com. If I'm not finding anything there, I'll try https://webapp.navionics.com/#boating and see if they have anything. If I strike out again, I'll go to https://www.genesismaps.com/SocialMap and check their user submitted data of various lakes. It's often not a complete chart, but it's better than nothing. And they usually have better maps for the smaller lakes that are ignored by the big companies.

Same. I'm not much of a frog guy, as there's often not too many places where they're worth throwing, but bladed jigs and spinnerbaits just didn't seem to do well for me at all this year. Honestly, it just wasn't a good fishing year for me.

One thing I often do to help contain rust in those plastic trays, is to take a low watt soldering iron, or plastic welder (better because you will ruin your soldering iron tip melting plastic with it), and install all of your adjustable dividers where you want to keep them. Then run the soldering iron across the edges of the dividers to melt the adjustable dividers into the walls and bottom. Water can still move around through the top side, but it does help to prevent some of the spread. Then just leave it open when not in use so the water inside can dry out. It's not 100%, but I think it helps some.

We'll see what happens. One of the things I've learned about big dollar items is if you have the luxury of waiting, it's best to save that money when the economy is booming and spend it when the economy is hurting. Basically, do the opposite of what everyone else is doing. I can definitely see boats dropping in price. They've been making a bunch for a while now, and most people don't use boats all that often. So it's easy to flood the market and depress prices as demand drops. So I'd start saving right now for that boat of the future. Cars would be a bit harder to predict. There are some Chinese EV companies that are supposed to launch cheap EV's to the American market soon, so that could depress car prices. We'll see how well they're received once they get here. But with cars in general lasting 200k miles or more these days, there's not much incentive for auto makers to make affordable, instead of aspirational, cars. They'd be in competition with the used market. As for houses. Your guess is as good as mine. I see dozens of things on the horizon that could push housing prices either way, or even both ways at the same time (location dependent). I think buying a house right now is a case of preparing for the worst and hoping for the best.

Another vote for a pair of anchor trolleys and an anchor. It's a pain to have to deal with, and it takes some experience and skill to get it right. But once you get it down, it's not too bad. The exceptions are the inside of a cove just off the main lake where the wind funnels and whips around and is constantly changing direction. There's not much you can do there. If the wind is strong, which is typically is around here, I plan my launch points according to the direction of the wind. Sometimes it's just not worth the hassle, so I'll try to find areas where the wind is either lessened or out of a more favorable direction. Sometimes I'll try to use it to my advantage to drift, since kayaks want to drift sideways in the wind, and just drift parallel to a bank with minimal adjustments here and there. Often times you can use the angle of your rod on the retrieve to help control your kayak, or just use the rod tip as a paddle if you just need to make a micro adjustment. Also, sometimes a drift chute on the opposite side of the anchor can help to keep you tighter in one spot. Or using two anchors at once. Though I don't find the need to pick apart a single spot for that long too often to be worth the time to set that up.

I tie on extra long leaders so I don't have to retie on the water. I've used a double uni a few times, but these days, if the need arises, I just bite the bullet and tie on another FG. Though, as with any knot, it's less important which knot you choose, and more important how well you can tie that knot. Tying a poor knot, no matter which knot you choose, won't hold as well as a typically weaker knot, tied better. So my advice is to go with the one which you are most comfortable with.

I could see it being a good idea. But personally, I use a clip just about any time I can get away with one. I use something around a 40lbs test (#1) Duo Lock for stuff like jerkbaits and most cranks. If for no other reason than I tend to switch them out a lot and a clip might save me from dying a dozen or more knots in a day.

I don't own one, but I don't see why it wouldn't be a good idea to sharpen it. I mean, is it possible to cut weeds too well? Does anyone ever say they're not getting tangled up enough? Plus, I too like to sharpen things when I'm bored. I find it meditative and therapeutic. My hairless forearms will attest to that.

I thought I had experienced most of the problems one could experience in life, but having too many places to fish hasn't yet been one of them. I guess I've got something to shoot for now!

Fishing with an FFS still takes a lot of skill. It's not like it catches fish for you. And if everyone has one, then it's not an unfair advantage. Trying to change the rules to suit your style isn't competition. In no industry can anyone afford to get good at something and then decide to not keep up with the times and changes in technology. Professional fishing isn't any different. We all have to learn and adapt over our lifetimes. It's the way life has always been. That being said, I'd still like to see them get rid of some of the technology in professional fishing. It's like professional baseball. Sure, they'd hit more home runs if they allowed metal bats. But sometimes making the pros do things the hard way makes it even more impressive when they accomplish those amazing feats. Like the NBA's three-point line being further back, or the black tees on those crazy hard pro golf courses. It makes the pros seem even more mythical that they can still do what they do with all those handicaps thrown against them.

I like the basic premise here. But it is a bit weird to me to declare a line in the sand about electronics where they did. It's almost like they said 2017 is the demarcation line. No technology past the year 2017 may enter. Personally, I'd rather see a no sonar, or maybe only a flasher type sonar. That would put the focus of the tournament solely on the skill of the angler to catch fish, and not so much their ability to use technology. But whatever. It'll at least be nice to see people not staring at a screen after the cast. And it'll at least give the impression that the most important skill in bass fishing is something other than attracting sponsors to fund these floating laboratories.

And if they're spooked, they may not bite. I fish it both ways. There are a ton of factors that I might consider, and a ton I might ignore. Often times, how well the fish are biting plays a big role. If they're not very aggressive, there's not much point in fishing the outside first. So take what you can get. Most of the lakes I fish have lots of cover, and not much that really stands out from the rest. So any cover that holds bass tends to not hold a bunch. So I'll often go for the inside first and ignore the outside all together try to catch one or two before moving on to the next piece of cover. But there are a few spots with more isolated cover, and I might fish them outside-in if the bass are biting. Especially if they're in a noisy area, like a main lake point with a bit of wind and boats passing by, where I'm not so afraid of spooking them.

I'm usually not too worried about getting lost in the fog, because the fog will lift eventually. It never lasts long here once the sun comes up. But I do worry about getting run over by a motorboat in the fog. I've been out on the lake a few times with heavy fog and power boats cruising at high speeds running around blind. Dumb people are drawn to dangerous situations like moths to a light bulb. Either way, I will use my GPS on my fish finder, and have the GPS on my phone, as a backup if need be. But mostly, I try to stay within sight of the bank unless the fog is too heavy for that or I'm cutting across a small cove. Also, I can usually use sound to keep myself oriented, as most of our lakes have some kind of industry humming or highway nearby. They're all man-made, so they were built with a purpose. You don't need cell service to use the GPS on your phone. But you do need to have the maps predownloaded if you're going to be out of range of a cell signal. The GPS will still register your coordinates, but it won't know anything more than that if you don't have the maps downloaded. When I was vacationing in Europe, where my cell phone wouldn't work without paying exorbitant prices, I used the hotel's wifi to download maps and navigated my way around with the GPS. I just downloaded the areas for anyplace near where I was planning to go the night before. I've done that a few times since when traveling in the back country here. You just have to know you'll lose cell reception ahead of time to plan for that.

They'll get hung up in wood, but not every time. Lots of good suggestions so far. The only thing I have to add is if you're fishing from a boat, they're usually easier to free from a snag than most lipped crankbaits, as they have a bit more weight to them. Just be sure not to bury the hooks into the wood too deep and bring a plug knocker. You'll still lose a few, but you'll catch more bass as well.