Functional

This must be whats its like for kids today with all the home cameras and cell phone cameras. I'm not that old but the only way you got caught was something in the house broken/not in place or a neighbor.

In my experience of 36/7 years of life I've lived, "girl math" takes it to the next level with a $10 coupon for a $500+ purse or shoes 😂. Thankfully my wife is more practical...which is why she is my wife. Only one of us can be certifiably crazy.

My shorter rods (mid to upper 6' range) I use for topwater and jerkbait work. One of the 6'10 rods I own is also used for lighter jigs and bottom contact but other than that everything is about 7'- 7'4.

Gotta say after working in power plants for 7 years thats some gross negligence on the operators. The amount of systems and regulations in place to prevent that kind of stuff would make your ears bleed before you raise 10deg cooling discharge temps per hour. In NY they made us shut down a 1000MW power plant that used river water as a cooling source because of aquatic life.

I justify stuff like that all the time. The item is $150 but you saved $20 in shipping so you really only bought the reel for $130 which is even MORE of a deal. Now you would just be unwise to pass up such a good deal.

5/8 double jointed black jitterbug at night HAMMERS. GreenPig is right though it wobbles side to side in a straight line and gives a blub blub blub blub sound as it does it.

If I could only choose 1 line for 1 combo it would either be 40lb PP Super slick or 12lb Yo Zuri. I've been able to fish Yo-Zuri with top and under water lures just fine. Braid is easier to manage but you have to deal with leader knots, not a deal breaker but something I avoid if I can.

If I'm fishing a spook I'm fishing it like @WRB. If I need it to pop or anything like that I'm just throwing a popper or a lure that is designed to do what I'm after. Half the time I get the strikes on a spook in the first few twitches from deadstick before I start walking it in.

yall have methods to undo all these messes? I usually just pull on loops and the main line and hope for the best! Going to have to start taking pics. When I backlash its not when I'm practicing skipping...no...its when I go make my first normal cast after that is when I forget how to fish and everything explodes.

just teasin a bit! I used to fish the heddon crazy crawler that looks a lot like that back when I was young. I should do well!

looks like it could use a few hooks. Jerkbait Jig Gunna fish those until I'm smacking them right in the mouth with it.

bushings are fine in applications that flush the area with a lubricant (think cranshaft bearings). Roller bearings contain their own lubrication or at least hold it better/longer. While not bad or wrong I wouldnt say its the best application in every part of a reel. A mix is best. There is a whole balance of speed/force/etc. that come into play when selecting one or the other. In short for a reel, things that spin often and need to spin the most freely/quickly should get roller bearings, things that dont need to be super smooth and spin slower or very infrequently could use bushings just fine (reel handles for one example).

@JackstrawIII You may (and likely are) right on terminal performance of solids. I've never honestly looked hard into them but I've heard great results with solids. Ballistics are ballistics though and a lighter bullet absolutely will shed speed faster than a heavier one regardless of makeup. Inside 400 though the different isnt huge and again this is more in the weeds than its needs to be. People have taken deer with a 223 with a decent bullet in the right spot!

While I love my MHF Expride I wouldnt say its leaps and bounds better than my Victory or ARK Tharp rod. The reel seat is a lot more comfortable for my hands. I'm half in agreement with Tom, keeping a finger on the line helps me with bite detection when working the lure slow or when stopped but I feel the blank quality helps when you are moving the lure and identify between a bite and a twig/rock/weed. After saying all that Id still spring for an Expride, ALX Zolo or a Megabass. The build quality alone is worth the price increase even if the Victory and ARK are comparable.

And since I cant decide which fits this situation best....

my home lake looks like this after a decent rain. Takes 3-5 days to clear up enough to fish it. Only luck I've had is find the feeder creeks and fish the cleanest water you can with the loudest lures your have. Either incredibly shiny, pure white or pure black. Most times I'll just stay home and wait for it to clear up a little.

Agreed on most everything. Something to expand on a little is you mention impact velocity and also possibly a 6.5 with a 105gr bullet. Velocity is one component but you need to also look at the energy at the given distance. I'll put a comparison of the 107gr (closest I could find that was a similar bullet to the 147) at 3000fps and I'll put a 147gr at 2800fps (both realistic numbers I've achieved). While the 107 is faster the 147 is the better choice PROVIDED the bullet is rated to expand at the velocity you run (or impact if the manufacturer gives it). The lighter bullet will shed speed much faster. With the greater mass the 147 catches up in speed but EASILY out paces it in energy at impact. Within 400yrds there is a 400-500 ft-lb advantage for the heavier/slower 147. If you are interested I can run tables for you. I have a few ballistic solvers that spit this all out nicely. 107 (yrds/FPS/ ft-lbs) 200-2596-1601 400-2223-1174 600-1883-843 147 (yrds/FPS/ ft-lbs) 200-2499-2039 400-2219-1607 600-1956-1249 *these figures are just pulled from 2 similar style bullets closest to the weight you mention, BC of the bullet will play into this but it gets the point across. When you do this with short barrels there is a crossover where too heavy IS too slow.

Every time I catch myself getting caught up in the "which round is best" debate with hunting I remember just about everything we talk about hunting in NA has been taken with a bow. Regardless of the caliber I believe bullet selection for the FPS you expect the bullet to have, the game you are hunting and shot placement are most important. For example the 6.5x47L is routinely used to hunt Elk over in Europe. Its a fantastic round but by comparison to the 6.5creed and 6PRC its slow. Personally I want the flattest shooting with the least recoil and still have some mass in a bullet to handle elk. That usually puts me into a 6.5creedmoor with a TTSX bullet. A 6.5 TTSX is proven on everything I'd hunt, and opens at a lower velocity than most if I ever needed to take a far shot. The 300wm, 6.5prc, 30-06 etc. are similar but the recoil that comes with them in a light hunting rifle puts me off them. Part of an ethical hunt for me is knowing where I hit so I can better track what I shot God forbid everything went wrong and it was a poor shot. Having said that, moose and bear are the only two I'd want something like a 300WM, 30-06, 300PRC, 338LM, etc. Those are some TOUGH animals and I want the meatiest bullet I can smack em with. Everything else 6.5creed or 308 (and others) is plenty IMO.

Odd, definitely wasnt when I added mine in. Didnt need it badly enough so I took it out.

Glad I read this post I had no idea about this express program.

7'2 MH Kage with Lews SpeedSpool LFS and 40lb braid. - 3/8oz Dirty Jigs pearl ghost shiner swim jig with FAT Impact 3.8 in Tennessee shad - 1/4oz mini max chatterbait in spot remover with Zoom split tail trailer in glimmer blue I'd say those 2 lures on that setup were responsible for the majority of my bass in 2023.

Seeing all these pics makes me miss snow...then I remember sometimes clearing the driveway every 2 hours and into the night and then I'm ok. Still nothing like the dead quiet and peace outside during a snow fall.

I still do like Glenn but I've upgraded my foot game. Pencil through the spool, ends of pencil through the holes in the sides of Crocs and I push my feet together to pinch the spool and adjust tension. Line through the first 2 guides and lounge back and spool up. Laugh all you want...but it works 😅

Megabass wasn't included either. Was going to grab another 110jr+ but it didn't apply the discount. I will say in the past on brands (shimano) they couldn't discount publicly they did apply to it BUT you had to checkout completely and the receipt reflected the discount. Crappy way to gamble though.

Abuse of the systems drive me insane and this would to no end also. Since I enjoy staying in these forums I'll leave it at that because I can write a dissertation on why certain (most) programs are harmful to everyone they impact.