Most of these rods have lure ratings between 1-5 oz, which even with “moderate” action makes for a pretty stout stick.

 

From what I’ve gathered on here you want the rod to be as moderate or forgiving as possible. I just really don’t understand how there can be so much conflicting information.  I realize ratings vary greatly and there are no hard and fast rules but this seems to be all over the place.

 

My initial intention was to beef up my rod from my current setup (7’4” HF Mojo) to something with a little more backbone.  I found the Kistler KLX which seemed to fit this perfectly (7’6” XH MF) rated 1–4 oz.  However, Trey insisted that was too stiff and to go with the Heavy MF, rated only 1-2 oz.   Most of the baits I’m throwing are over 2 oz (6” Bull Shad, Chad Shad, Jackal Gantia.) I’m just not sure I understand how this wouldn’t benefit from a rod rated for these weights. 

27 minutes ago, Ohioguy25 said:

I am sort of confused and receiving conflicting information.

Welcome.  We are a rather large club.  You may end up even liking it here.

Giving and even taking bass fishing advice can be tricky.

 

However, one of if not The Most common aspects

of most every experienced bass angler,

is that they got most all of that experience by going fishing.

Yup, time on the water.

At some point, we all had to just bite the bullet and venture into the unknown.

But the great part of that is, we figured it out.

In our own way.

A way that makes sense to us.

Sounds like that's what you are in need of.

So I say take the rods, reels & bait you have and go fish them.

See how it goes. 

That's your time on the water so you can make your own assessment.

So you can answer all of these questions for yourself.

And then you WILL understand. 

Fish Hard

A-Jay

 

While @A-Jays reply (and mine above) sounds a bit like 'rub some dirt on it', there's even more wisdom with regards to rod recommendations.   The feel is just so very personal.   You may find 95% LOVE a certain rod for a specific application...and you could still hate it.  Just can't know until you cast, hook and land with it.....a few times.

20 minutes ago, Choporoz said:

While @A-Jays reply (and mine above) sounds a bit like 'rub some dirt on it', there's even more wisdom with regards to rod recommendations.   The feel is just so very personal.   You may find 95% LOVE a certain rod for a specific application...and you could still hate it.  Just can't know until you cast, hook and land with it.....a few times.

Gotcha, it’s just tough to “try out” rods before buying them.

1 minute ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Gotcha, it’s just tough to “try out” rods before buying them.

Lol....soon you will understand why I have three times as many as I regularly use

Ajay and Choporoz have made a good point. I used to work in a bike shop part time selling bikes. A lot of people want to swing for the fence right out of the gate and they aren't even sure of what they want to do as a cyclist. There is some wisdom in getting something entry level and middle of the road for the type of riding they want to do (intent), knowing that this isn't likely to turn out to be the bike of their dreams. Heck, they might not enjoy cycling at all.

 

An example of a entry level mountain bike would be a 29" hardtail costing from $600 to $1,000. An example of an entry level Swimbait rod would be cost between $100 to $160.

 

The entry level bike allows them to:

• See if they actually like riding a bike at all
• Let's them try some different niches of riding
• Discover who they are as a cyclist

They are more likely to make a wrong choice the first time around, IF they even really like it at all. Only repair what breaks and resist upgraditis, instead saving your money for the type of bike that will actually suit you far better than what you thought you wanted. Once you've ridden a while, you can rely on your own experience to guide you and you can sell your entry level bike, losing far less than if you'd thrown down big time on your first bike. Consider it a good deal on a long term rental. The odds are that it will cost much less and get you what best suits you. Now apply the reasoning to swimbait rods. You just need to have patience and faith that the process will work for you.

25 minutes ago, Big Hands said:

Ajay and Choporoz have made a good point. I used to work in a bike shop part time selling bikes. A lot of people want to swing for the fence right out of the gate and they aren't even sure of what they want to do as a cyclist. There is some wisdom in getting something entry level and middle of the road for the type of riding they want to do (intent), knowing that this isn't likely to turn out to be the bike of their dreams. Heck, they might not enjoy cycling at all.

 

An example of a entry level mountain bike would be a 29' hardtail costing from $600 to $1,000. An example of an entry level Swimbait rod would be cost between $100 to $160.

 

The entry level bike allows them to:

• See if they actually like riding a bike at all
• Let's them try some different niches of riding
• Discover who they are as a cyclist

They are more likely to make a wrong choice the first time around, IF they even really like it at all. Only repair what breaks and resist upgraditis, instead saving your money for the type of bike that will actually suit you far better than what you thought you wanted. Once you've ridden a while, you can rely on your own experience to guide you and you can sell your entry level bike, losing far less than if you'd thrown down big time on your first bike. Consider it a good deal on a long term rental. The odds are that it will cost much less and get you what best suits you. Now apply the reasoning to swimbait rods. You just need to have patience and faith that the process will work for you.

No! No! That works for rods, but not bikes! Walk in the shop and ask them what the most expensive bike they sell is, then ask them to custom build you one twice that price.  

BPS has an "entry level" MTB bike that is actually decent, and the cammo "hunting" E-bikes are a little weird. 

You seem to be in analysis paralysis, and the only cure for that is unfortunately is to make a decision and spend some time on the water and see how YOU like your set up, as has been metioned. You contacted Kistler and got advice directly from the rod makers mouth which is about as much as you can do. There will never be a general consensus on pretty much anything in bass fishing besides that spending time on the water being the most important. I recommend taking the advice you got from Kistler, and then go fish the rod, and then decide if it works for you. Once you fish it, you'll have a better understanding on how the rod's specs actually apply, and what you want to change, or not change.

1 hour ago, Jar11591 said:

You seem to be in analysis paralysis, 

 

I never heard of that malady but it's a good description. ☺️

 

The OP seems to be locked into firm numbers. Just use the numbers as a guide. Not a limit you cannot cross. I throw a lot of heavy baits on different rods. Some are too heavy for the rod I'm using at the time, some are too light, but most work surprisingly well.  

 

If your 7’4” HF Mojo is working then why replace it unless you're looking for a reason to buy another rod?

18 minutes ago, Dogface said:

 

I never heard of that malady but it's a good description. ☺️

 

The OP seems to be locked into firm numbers. Just use the numbers as a guide. Not a limit you cannot cross. I throw a lot of heavy baits on different rods. Some are too heavy for the rod I'm using at the time, some are too light, but most work surprisingly well.  

 

If your 7’4” HF Mojo is working then why replace it unless you're looking for a reason to buy another rod?

It’s not working lol

Ask Trey if you can exchange the rod he suggested if unsatisfied to heavier rod.

Tom

3 hours ago, A-Jay said:

Giving and even taking bass fishing advice can be tricky.

 

However, one of if not The Most common aspects

of most every experienced bass angler,

is that they got most all of that experience by going fishing.

Yup, time on the water.

At some point, we all had to just bite the bullet and venture into the unknown.

But the great part of that is, we figured it out.

In our own way.

A way that makes sense to us.

Sounds like that's what you are in need of.

So I say take the rods, reels & bait you have and go fish them.

See how it goes. 

That's your time on the water so you can make your own assessment.

So you can answer all of these questions for yourself.

And then you WILL understand. 

Fish Hard

A-Jay

 

That's some of the best advice I've ever heard. Fish what you have see if you like it. If not go from there. There is no wrong way. Not everyone fishes the same.

1 hour ago, WRB said:

Ask Trey if you can exchange the rod he suggested if unsatisfied to heavier rod.

Tom

But not today. He just left on vacation lol. 

I take all rod/reel ratings as suggestions not rules. There’s way more leeway than you think.  Unfortunately, you just gotta take chances and get different rods in hand. I’ve bought rods thinking I’d use them for specific applications and end up using them in totally different ways. In the end, the only one who can tell you what’s good for what, is you.  Personal preference reigns supreme!

12 hours ago, BrianMDTX said:

But not today. He just left on vacation lol. 

I suppose you told him about my thread ?

17 hours ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Gotcha, it’s just tough to “try out” rods before buying them.

Some might say impossible 

1 hour ago, Ohioguy25 said:

I suppose you told him about my thread ?

 No. He already skeedaddled! ?

19 hours ago, A-Jay said:

Giving and even taking bass fishing advice can be tricky.

 

However, one of if not The Most common aspects

of most every experienced bass angler,

is that they got most all of that experience by going fishing.

Yup, time on the water.

At some point, we all had to just bite the bullet and venture into the unknown.

But the great part of that is, we figured it out.

In our own way.

A way that makes sense to us.

Sounds like that's what you are in need of.

So I say take the rods, reels & bait you have and go fish them.

See how it goes. 

That's your time on the water so you can make your own assessment.

So you can answer all of these questions for yourself.

And then you WILL understand. 

Fish Hard

A-Jay

 

Real life experience, and time on the water to gain competence and develop skill and preference?...

That can't be right Boomer! I have 3 techniques to master this spring so upload the  right answer to Tick Tock now!...  

1 hour ago, BrianMDTX said:

 No. He already skeedaddled! ?

Oh ok, I thought you had said you got some advice from Trey!

21 hours ago, Ohioguy25 said:

I just really don’t understand how there can be so much conflicting information.

Then stop trying to understand it and just listen to what the rod maker and people here are telling you. Rod ratings are merely a suggestion in most cases and are quite subjective.

 

19 hours ago, Jar11591 said:

You seem to be in analysis paralysis

^^^This. I believe that you were neck deep into this syndrome when you were searching for waders. I understand research, but from the outside it was as if you were selecting parachutes for a newborn.

 

From one of your previous "last time I'll ever ask this question" posts, we've established that you'll be casting from a seated position in a kayak. Correct? What this means is that you'll never get the energy on a cast that you would if you were standing. It's not possible. Picture swinging a baseball bat or throwing a hardball while standing. Now imagine sitting down in a chair with your legs up on an ottoman. You cannot match the energy from this position. Heavy baits on heavy, long sticks are somewhat unwieldy here. Your casts with a swimbait setup will not have the same energy.

 

Max lure ratings for a rod imply what overload might be on a max energy cast. After time you'll come to understand by feel when you're overloading a particular rod. However, by reducing the energy of a cast, you can moderate the overload. This is why in a pinch you can throw a 2 1/2 oz bait in a rod rated at 1 1/2 oz using a lob cast. Over time you'll come to understand where the boundaries of your rods lie, as well as other peculiarities. it takes time and it's conditional. Don't make yourself crazy.

 

10 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Then stop trying to understand it and just listen to what the rod maker and people here are telling you. Rod ratings are merely a suggestion in most cases and are quite subjective.

 

^^^This. I believe that you were neck deep into this syndrome when you were searching for waders. I understand research, but from the outside it was as if you were selecting parachutes for a newborn.

 

From one of your previous "last time I'll ever ask this question" posts, we've established that you'll be casting from a seated position in a kayak. Correct? What this means is that you'll never get the energy on a cast that you would if you were standing. It's not possible. Picture swinging a baseball bat or throwing a hardball while standing. Now imagine sitting down in a chair with your legs up on an ottoman. You cannot match the energy from this position. Heavy baits on heavy, long sticks are somewhat unwieldy here. Your casts with a swimbait setup will not have the same energy.

 

Max lure ratings for a rod imply what overload might be on a max energy cast. After time you'll come to understand by feel when you're overloading a particular rod. However, by reducing the energy of a cast, you can moderate the overload. This is why in a pinch you can throw a 2 1/2 oz bait in a rod rated at 1 1/2 oz using a lob cast. Over time you'll come to understand where the boundaries of your rods lie, as well as other peculiarities. it takes time and it's conditional. Don't make yourself crazy.

 

Gotcha, thanks. I guess I just don’t quite understand the physics of it and am having trouble envisioning it. Wouldn’t a stiffer rod give me more leverage for casting heavier baits? I’d prefer not to be forced to “lob” them.

18 minutes ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Gotcha, thanks. I guess I just don’t quite understand the physics of it and am having trouble envisioning it. Wouldn’t a stiffer rod give me more leverage for casting heavier baits? I’d prefer not to be forced to “lob” them.

I doubt that few beyond the engineers in here understand the physics.  But it isn't hard to comprehend how rod bend can introduce more stored energy at peak of the backswing.   As soon as you introduce flex to your lever, the variables take the physics calculations through the roof.  

39 minutes ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Wouldn’t a stiffer rod give me more leverage for casting heavier baits? I’d prefer not to be forced to “lob” them.

 

I once thought that might be an absolute truth, but every rod has a sweet spot that is usually like the filling of an oreo cookie with regards to what it is rated for, if that rating is close to being truly accurate. 

 

As you get into the outer limits of the range of a rod's true sweet spot, the results become less satisfying. A rod needs to load up with energy, and then release that energy during the cast. A broomstick doesn't do that very well no matter how hard I try. When you get into the outer edges of what a rod is capable of, it either loads up too much, or not enough and casting suffers. (EDIT: and Choporoz has just posted what I think is the same opinion while I was busy being my usual verbose self). And, I am not an engineer, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

And then, after that dilemma is reconciled, there is the ergonomics, retrieve, and fighting a fish that should be considered as well. There are often compromises to be made for these factors.

 

The good news is that myriad others have already been through this and share enough experience for you to get in the game and then figure out what works best for you.

 

Even though I know this, I still do a lot of hand-wringing over rod and reel purchases, so I can empathize with you going through that. 

8 minutes ago, Choporoz said:

But it isn't hard to comprehend how rod bend can introduce more stored energy at peak of the backswing.   As soon as you introduce flex to your lever, the variables take the physics calculations through the roof.  

This is where only hands-on experience and reps come into play. We all calibrate ourselves to this dynamic spring/lever.