Jrob78

This, always try to keep your reels full or close to it. Whatever cheap mono backing you put on can stay on for a long time. When you need new line, strip off to the backer and respool the last 100 yds.

It isn't quite as cut and dry as that. Since manufacturers can put any label they want on their rods, one companies MH might range from 1/4-5/8oz while another might be 1/2-1oz. It's hard to say without actually fishing with the rod.

I love those hooks!

I was mostly under the impression that there weren't many bass spinning rods in heavy enough powers to throw baits that would normally be thrown on a heavy powered baitcaster and the accompanying spinning reel would have to be very large to handle large diameter line that isn't braid. That's where my weight comment comes from. I also freely admit that I don't really know, which is why I asked the question in the first place.

I completely agree that whatever works for someone is great, I'm not here to say anyone is doing anything wrong. There are no rules in fishing. I'm sure people would think I'm crazy for throwing a shaky head or drop shot or weightless worm or whatever on casting gear.

If you fish spinning gear only, how do you fish say, a 1/2oz double willow spinnerbait or a deep diving crankbait or pitch a bait into cover with 3/8oz-3/4oz weight or a work a Zara Spook or a hollow body frog or a football jig and trailer? There are so many baits that don't lend themselves to spinning gear at all. I'm sure you can find a spinning rod strong enough to do those things but the combo is going to weigh twice what comparably powered baitcast combo would weigh and the awkwardness of trying to fish and cast those baits with spinning gear seems so inefficient. Maybe you don't employ any of those techniques and don't fish in waters where heavier line and heavier baits are necessary. I am in TX and I am sure our fishing here is much different than the northern smallmouth waters many of you fish.

It's pretty funny. I use spinning gear about once or twice or year, mainly because I own it so I might as well use it. Spinning gear offers nothing that I can't do better with baitcasting gear, including ultra light fishing. I hate spinning gear and don't care if I ever use it. My point is, use what works for you but don't limit yourself to one thing without at least seeing what the other has to offer.

I would go with a size 4 in a regular shank hook or a size 2 in a short shank hook. The Mustad KVD short shank hooks you mentioned are great. Use the same size hook for the front and the back. Size 4 is what comes on the bait from the factory but short shank hooks allow you to go up a size without the hooks tangling. So a size 2 in the KVD short shank hook will work great. Edit: The Gamakatsu short shank hooks are sharper but more expensive. Again, short shank hooks, go up a size. So size 2 for any short shank hook.

I agree with you for the most part but doesn't BPS have a parts house? Or they used to at least. I know many of their reels were made in the same Korean factories (Doyo) as Abu Garcia, Pflueger and Lews. I know many of the parts are/were interchangeable. I've never owned any house brand stuff though so I'm not completely sure.

Jackall Iobee Ish's Phat Frog

On the website they have Jan 16th as the opening date, next wednesday.

I agree, sometimes a heavier reel is the perfect thing to help balance a tip heavy rod. I have a pile of OG Zillions that I don't see myself replacing anytime soon. I don't use them on my bfs rods but they definitely have their place.

I imagine it will be a perfect description of these reels by this time next year....extinct.

I love glass rods for cranking but I don't really have one appropriate for bladed jigs. Another one to check out is the Evergreen Combat Stick, the 7'3" heavy glass was designed by Brett Hite specifically for Chatterbaits.

I have about 4 Dick's stores close to me and they range from bad to terrible for fishing stuff. I've stopped even going.

I use small 1.5" by 3" plastic bags, keeps the hooks safe, together by size and fits in standard boxes.

I think it's great since that seems to be what the anglers wanted. It gives more guys a chance to make a move into the top 10 and more value on their money spent traveling to these tournaments. More than anything though it shows BASS is listening to their anglers, which not doing in the past is a large part of what caused the mass exodus to begin with.

TW has them, they have full cork grips and retail for $150.

If you don't plan to go to 8" Hudds or similar sized swimbaits I would get the MH. None of the baits you listed are very heavy. I don't have any experience with that particular rod but those baits can be thrown on heavy flipping sticks. The MH should also work for a-rigs.

I use fluoro on pretty much everything that doesn't need to float or penetrate heavy cover. I don't like the lack of stretch with braid and the inability to transmit slack line bites. Type of reel doesn't have anything to do with it.

Was last episode of the new season won by Randy Howell on Lake Murray in OK? My cable company cut the Outdoor Channel but I do have WFN and that episode came on Monday.

I am definitely in. It's a different group this year but I'm excited to see how it shakes out.

Braid does not "eat micro guides" lol. You can't always trust what a guy working at a sporting goods store says, even though I'm sure he meant well. I would get micro guides if you don't intend to use leaders, I've never had any issues in the 10 or so years I've been using them.

Medium and medium heavy are powers not actions.

Taking weight off the blank out toward the tip makes a rod more crisp, responsive, better balanced and more sensitive. These are the reasons I use micro guides on my custom builds and on the vast majority of factory rods I buy. I do believe they aid in casting distance in most cases but that doesn't really figure in to why I use them. They aren't great for all scenarios but I can promise you they aren't a gimmick. I've been using them since before they were ever offered on any factory rods.