Delaware Valley Tackle

You’re looking at about what you paid for the rod. You’re way ahead of the game to buy something higher end.

Simple green scrub and a hot water rinse cleans everything. Alcohol is too mild for bearings especially getting factory line out. Naphtha is unsafe for the user. Acetone is my preference for bearing flush. Levelwinds take a beating due to their exposed position and are a critical assembly to be deep cleaned. I’d take that apart before the clutch if you aren’t doing both. Superlube works fine. Don’t use it on wet drags.

Core 51 mg7

There’s no “downside”. Depending on your particular circumstance there may be choices with added benefit available but like I said, regular care and maintenance far outweighs any product choice unless it’s blatantly incorrect for the application. In the realm of lubricant applications fishing reels are not a harsh or demanding one. Shear forces, temperatures, environments, speeds etc are much larger issues in industrial and automotive uses for example. Grease is nothing more than oil in a carrier used to hold it in place. That’s over simplified but the basic idea. Don’t stay awake nights over this.

Use the KISS principle and don’t over think this. For a few reels of your own Cals is a fine choice for gears and drags. Oil level winds. If you want to step it up a notch use a marine grease like yamalube etc for enhanced water repulsion. If you’re a gear head and find it fun to geek out on this stuff go for it. You’re not hurting a thing. Keeping gear clean and lubed with something appropriate is 90% of the battle.

It depends on the cover you’re fishing as well. Docks, rocks, scattered grass, med power fast action caters toward lighter line and a little more finesse. Around wood, thicker grass most mh will throw those. Keep in mind Med and MH are subjective terms.

I’m looking into this here I’ll message you direct.

The fact that the bail closes easily is evidence that the spring is strong and doing its job. If memory serves the bail arm just cams over holding it open. There is no latch per se holding it open. Be aware of the rotor position when opening the bail. In the wrong position the trip ramp can block it from opening fully and may result in what you’re seeing.

You really gotta hand it to bulldog1935. BFS is niche enough , adding Ambassadeur reels to the mix is whole ‘ other level.

I was never overly impressed by the 13 Reels. Initially they were good quality but priced high on a feature for feature basis.

If we didn’t there wouldn’t be a forum!! Lol

A drop of oil on the roller is a good idea especially after salt water exposure and rinsing. The scenario of lubricants having adverse reactions to one another is grossly misunderstood and blown way out of proportion.

I’ve replaced a few SLX AR bearings but I get the impression they were worked really hard and not particularly well cared for.

It’s WAY overblown. Some greases don’t play well together but even then it’s not catastrophic between commonly available products.

Either is ok. Start with the spool all the way forward, put a drop of oil at the shaft base to seep in, then a film of grease as suggested already you get the best of both worlds. In a deep cleaning I grease the shafts entire length.

That set screw takes a .035” hex. You’ll have to back it out. If it’s jammed too badly you might be looking at a more involved repair. Contact me directly if you want help

When using heat my rule of thumb is to not heat hotter than I can handle bare handed. Short blasts of heat and keep the source moving. Heat gun works fine if you’re paying attention at all.

This is 100% nonsense. There is no oil “made for fishing reels “ they’re all repurposed products. A low viscosity oil with anti corrosion additives is all you need regardless of labeling. Something that comes in a needle oiler is handy. Main thing is to use something. Don’t overthink this.

Yes strongly

Definitely a good idea immediately after salt or brackish water use. Not a replacement for regular deep cleaning but interim service is a good idea.

Well said.

I don’t see Lews as taking ABUs place. Lews had a nice niche for themselves as good quality reels at very competitive prices, due largely to their modest marketing budget. The new ownership has gone 180 in the other direction with heavy marketing, sponsorship etc and merely joined ABU in that space.

Not all designs allow for thicker drag stacks. I’d start with a Carbontex upgrade. As for spring washers new ones might make a slight difference but it won’t be night and day. If you’re spooled with braid make sure it’s not slipping.

Could be any one of a number of versions. Google is your friend. Compare any schematic carefully with the reel to be sure you’re using the right one. If you want to send it in I’ll go through it for you. Just let me know

For a newbie it’s hard to beat a set of American Tackle Microwave spinning guides. The setup is spelled out for you, price is reasonable and results excellent. Closest thing to a no brainer. Rod building thread and epoxy are worth the cost. You’ll close to $50 with shipping but the results will be better than a $50 rod off the shelf.