S Hovanec

IMO, a universal cover won't fare too well being towed. It just doesn't fit well enough. I've seen many flapping down the highway, beating the hell out of the boat. Almost all of my towing is done with my cover on, but it's a tight fitting custom.

I didn't read through all of the comments, but before a trip like that, I'd pull and pack the bearings. I'd also make sure I had a spare hub kit and the tools to change it roadside. Tires and spare in good condition.

Like said above. You're gonna take a loss. My bet is you won't recover half of what you have in it. I had a similar rig, a '78 StarCraft with a 9.9 Johnson. Completely stripped and rebuilt the boat and trailer. Paid $1200 for the boat, motor and trailer. Couldn't tell you how much I put in building it. Batteries, bow mount trolling motor, transom trolling motor, gas tank, wires, floor, hatches, seats, carpet, paint, cover, new axle, tires, fenders, bunks. Got $1800 out of it when I sold it. I know I had more than $600 in parts......and a whole summer worth of time.

Little epoxy and it'll be as good as new

My only regret is getting the 17' instead of the 18'. I had delusions that it would be more manageable than the 18' on the limited HP lakes. I was wrong. Nothing that size is manageable with a 20hp motor mounted 3' off center. Boat topped out at a whopping 8mph with a tail wind. The regret isn't that big though cause 12 years later, I still have the same boat.

I bet the cover cost half of what the hull did. Probably don't see them cause of the expense.

After going through 3 project boats, and getting tired of fixing things, I ordered new. The biggest reason was what I wanted was not on the used market, and most likely never will be til I decide to sell mine. I wanted a specific model boat and specific motor and I wasn't gonna settle for anything less. That was in 2005 and I'm still happy with it.

My Lund had 4 2x6 bunks and I love it. One of the biggest benefits to rollers is if you do a lot of winter fishing. If you fish 2 days in a row, your boat will be frozen to the trailer when you try to launch on the second day if you have carpeted bunks. Don't be that guy that is waiting for the ice to melt, holding everyone up at the ramp! Power loading is also difficult with a roller trailer. And like mentioned, NEVER unhook til it's in the water. I've seen many boats on the ramp cause someone unhooked the bow strap too soon with a roller trailer. Same can be said for bunk slicks too. I almost lost one of my jet-skis once cause a buddy unhooked the bow strap.

I start out with an 18' leader. It allows for multiple break-offs and reties without needing to retie a new leader. It's usually enough to fish all day, especially with multiple rods rigged the same.

My guess is you didn't have the bow high enough to allow for positive drainage.

What said above is true, leader materisl is stiffer. I use InvizX as my leader.

Lol. Last time I submitted that answer on another forum, I got roasted!

Replace the hood with this and the matching foregrip. http://www.mudhole.com/Fuji-SK2-Spinning-Casting-Graphite-Hood-KSKSS

The above procedure will work for installing the grip, but are the threads on the reel seat trimmed too shot? Rods with no foregrip typically have trimmed threads so when the reel is installed, no threads show. If you install a foregrip, you won't be able to back off the locking nut to put a reel on. You may be able to have a threaded foregrip made. One where you turn the grip to lock the reel on the seat. Probably only have to remove the stripper guide to install it.

I start out with an 18' leader. I rarely have to re-tie a leader during a days fishing. The line ticking through the guides doesn't bother me and I never noticed any adverse effects on the knot.

I did something similar to a 14' Starcraft. It wasn't the most stable boat after it was done. I used the existing front bench as a base for the front casting deck. Same for the rear deck.

Matagi

Try heat from a hair dryer. If that doesn't soften it, you just need to try to free a thread and start unwrapping it. It will unwrap under the finish leaving a hollow void. Some of these rods are using a UV cure finish and it just keeps getting g harder and harder.

Basically, build a wedge to shim up the back

I've been sitting on these pics for a couple weeks because I couldn't post them til the project was announced. Since my forte is cork and reel seats, I declined the pre-fab grips and did my own thing. Please excuse all the fuzz on the rod. The microfiber towel I wiped it with seemed to deposit more dust than it removed! Butt cap with Army insignia inlay. I wanted to do more with the grip but a technique I have been experimenting with wasn't working out . The reel seat hardware provided wouldn't work with my plans of using acrylic, so I substituted in Fuji SK2 hardware. I had a bit of scrap left from the reel seat, so I turned a matching winding check. Slogan decal provided by Batson. Personalized decal by Decal Connection. Alps guides provided by Batson.

I have a friend that is a full time guide (salmon, steelhead, lakers, browns, walleye, perch, smallmouth) . He does very little fishing himself. It's all about putting your clients on fish I build fishing rods. I haven't been fishing since Labor Day Weekend.

My local Gander.

My latest deal was a NIB LSS-1 unit for 55% off MSRP.

Wow. Thank you. As nice as some think my work is, there are guys out there doing stuff I can only dream of!

Sorry I derailed your original post. Enough of this local fishing discussion and back to SHTF rods.