Nine Miler

You can't feel it obviously, but this will give you an idea of the look. It just makes it shiny.

Palomar X3

If you are using cranks that dive less than a foot, as you mentioned, I would go with the CPC-C70MB. If you are going to be using deep cranks too (more than 10' or so...) the MH may be a better choice. I have the medium powered one and it is a good shallow-medium depth cranking rod. As far as lipless cranks go, they are a different animal, IMO. I like a rod that transitions to backbone more quickly, like a F or XF action, so I can rip the bait free of hangups.

Hammer, I am not surprised you haven't had problems, I am sure it is a fine reel. I would not have one in my boat, though. Like Stasher says, the vast, vast majority will not have a catastrophic failure with graphite reels. Metal is more rigid than graphite. It is not necessarily stronger, however- meaning the graphite will take a blow, flex and rebound to shape, where the metal will be bent. The thing is, flexing happens all the time- reeling in, fighting fish, etc. With graphite frames, the stresses placed on the reel, over time, can cause the gears, shafts and bearings to get slightly out of alignment. This results in a reel that may make funny noises and feel slightly loose. It may happen and it may not. For me, the $30 extra to avoid the possibility is worth it.

spinners, turn off your caps lock. That stuff is difficult to read.

Carolina rigged worms should definitely be used with at least a rod of MH power. Some may not agree, based on the weight, or whatnot, but I consider Carolina rigs a "power" technique. When you are fishing deep ledges and cover with heavy line, and weights up to an ounce or more, you will want the backbone or a MH or H rod. Don't be mistaken, just because a rod is suited to heavier tackle and techniques does not mean it can't be sensitive.

The difference is a graphite frame on the Sonora vs. an aluminum frame on the Sahara. The Sahara also has shielded anti-rust bearings. It is a great value at $75. With reasonable care and maintenance, it will last longer than you will need it to. Any spinning reel falling lower in the product line-up than the Sahara should not be considered, in my opinion, due to the fact that they are graphite framed.

That is a crazy good price for the Citica. I got one for $90 and still think I got a great deal, based on performance.

Size 3 and 4 Mepps spinners 1/2 oz. Red and White Daredevle GYCB Tubes and Grubs Zoom Lizards Ball bearing swivels/snaps Split shot

Nice fish. Love that dark color. Ours are much more green- not as pretty.

To piggy back on that lost post... Check out the Iki Jime. http://www.fishingkites.co.nz/cleaning-fish/cleaning_fish.html

I am going to stay home. It will be too busy. I'll wait out the weekend and go on Monday after work. I live less than a mile from the lake, so I can have a wet line by 5 PM. That will give me a few hours.

I would go with night crawlers under a bobber. Throw a few split shot on there and you're set. Take a couple ultralights and catch pan fish. It has probably been a while since you have done that, but I bet it will be fun. Pull in a bunch of fish until you both get tired of it and want to catch something bigger. You will probably have to ask your partner- Say something like "you had enough of these little guys? Want to go for something bigger?" When the answer is yes, you have your chance to set him up with a proven and simple setup, like a weightless Texas, or wacky rigged Senko. This way, you can teach him the ins and outs of most productive lure ever, while catching a few bass. (Even a dink LM feels big after a boat load of sunfish.) Once he gets one, he will be hooked. He is definitely not nearly as keyed in on techniques, patterns etc. as you are. This is a great opportunity for both of you. For him, to learn a bit about fishing and enjoy the time on the water, and for you to relax and have fun watching someone else having a blast because you gave him the opportunity.

What reel do you use? Uh-oh. Better say Ardent.

Shimano Compre- CPC-C70MB, Medium Power, Moderate Action. Paired with a Citica 200E with 12lb. Trilene XL I think this is a great, budget conscious set-up. Look around a bit and you can put this together for <$200 total. Line too!

I have read (and made) some ignorant posts on this site, but this is the most ignorant one I have come across to date.

While that is less than scientific advice, its pretty much correct. Generally a good rule of thumb is to set the drag at about 20-25% of the breaking strength of the line you are using. So, as mentioned in the previous bit of advice, if you are using ten pound line, anywhere between 2 lbs. and almost 2.5 lbs. is a good place to start. If you are you using 15, that means 3 to 3.75 lbs. is ideal. This is kind of hard to test, and meaningless to get exactly right, so just make sure you can pull line pretty easy. The problem with setting drag too tight is that the line can break. You have to remember it is not only based on the weight of the fish. The line can dig into the spool and make it jerky and prone to breaking. Also, if the fish runs into cover, the looser drag will reduce abrasion problems from the line scraping tree trunks, branches, etc.

Pitching/Flipping- No brakes, enough spool tension so the screw cap won't fall off. Underhand target casting- 2 brakes, spool tension allows the lure to fall about 1 ft./sec. from the rod tip. Casting for distance- Usually one brake, or none depending on lure weight. Spool tension about the same as the underhand cast.

I would return it. Get 12 or 14 pound Invizx and put that on the Curado. While you are at the store get some 30 lb Power Pro braid for that Symetre.

Atta boy. 8-) Nice.

This is a very good shallow cranking rod. In my opinion, the amount of sensitivity gained in high end rods is not worth the cost for this technique. I agree that a rod at least 7' and moderate action is the way to go. I use one of these for shallow cranking. http://www.***.com/Shimano_Compre_Crankbait_Casting_Rods_/descpage-SCCCRD.html#

I didn't feel really great about them when I handled them in the store. I didn't really notice the tip as being unusually thin. I don't really like the foam split grips. I prefer a full cork, so that was turn off, but it is a plus for others, so that is a matter of opinion. That said, it seems like most people who buy them like them, just based on the ratings I have seen. I have not heard of any issues with breaking. It is in that extremely competitive $100 range though, and I think I would have make a different choice for that money.

Personally, I would go to an aluminum framed spinning reel. You can get into a Shimano Sahara for around 75 bucks, a Daiwa Exceler for about the same, a Pflueger Medalist for about 80 bucks, or an Abu Garcia Cardinal 500 for about 60 bucks. I think you would be happier in the long run with an aluminum bodied reel, and any of these would serve you well. That gear ratio (5.X-1) is fairly typical for spinning reels, and will suit you fine in most applications. Bearing count can be misleading. The best thing to do is put it in your hand and see what it feels like. IMO fewer quality bearings in the key places will be better than 10 bearings of lower quality. My recommendation would be the the 2500 size Sahara. These two would be good options in your listed price range, depending on your preference for cork, or not- or split grip or not. http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10205072_100003002_100000000_100003000_100-3-2 http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_10203888_100003002_100000000_100003000_100-3-2

Try it by wacky rigging this worm... http://www.***.com/Jackall_Flick_Shake_Worm/descpage-JFS.html#pImage ...on this jig head http://www.***.com/Jackall_Weedless_Wacky_Jig_Head_3pk/descpage-JWWJ.html and make it do this...

Advantages- Sensitivity and the quick transition to backbone. It is stiffer, so it will send vibration to your hand more intensely. The best applications are single hook presentations (worm, jig) where you need sensitivity to detect a bite, then a lot of power to drive the hook set. Disadvantages- The Extra-Fast tip works against you while fighting the fish. Since the tip rebounds quickly, it is very hard to keep the right pressure on the fish to keep the lure secure. Too much or too little tension on the fish can allow them to throw the bait.