rboat

I have a 16' fiberglass boat with a single axel trailer with a single tire on each side and no trailer brakes. I ran trailer tires for years and found they just never held up very well. I now go against the grain. I know you all will throw shade my way, but hear me out. I talked to a tire guy who works with many of the best tire companies about changing to steel belted car/truck radials for my trailer. He checked with a couple of manufacturers and said that as long as we were in the specs for weight it should work very well. I have had them on for several years and am extremely happy. The trailer tracks straight and rides very smooth. No wear problems and the trailer actually pulls easier. I know you will all scream I am unsafe and stupid for even attempting this, but the proof is on the trailer. I have pulled it all over city, highway, and in between for years. It is stored inside and I have seen no un-normal wear or weather cracks like I had with trailer tires. It works great, and if it felt unsafe at any point I would change back to trailer tires. The only difference is I have saved money on tires. Ok, let me have it guys.

I would like to get a new baitcast reel for fishing lipless and squarebill cranks. The one I use now is good, but is made for deep crankin (4.7 to 1 ratio). You have to wind really fast to use it and we do not have any deep lakes so a better gear ratio is needed. Any suggestions for a medium priced reel and gear ratio for this application? Thanks.

Normally 3-4 hours. The sun and heat make the trip shorter than I prefer.

I do not think he is a member here, but check out Hughes custom painted lures and baits. Tim is very good and he can paint whatever you want. Good prices, exceptional work and can normally get it done quickly depending on his current workload. He did some lures for me and they were awesome and looked like high quality factory work.

As said before, ask around and find a reliable independent mechanic to check it out. Honda makes great engines. I would have the repairs done, especially if you can find a good mechanic.

If I remember the George Perry story, He was simply trying to get something to eat. When he got a very large bass and remembered about some contest. Pretty sure he probably had know idea about any world record. I believe that fish did end up as dinner. I know there have been liars throughout history, but simple folk in rural Georgia in 1932, hardly sounds like the time or place for a fishing prank. I do know there are thousands more liars today. Ask any IRS agent or simply follow the news out of Washington DC. I simply have to believe the story. Capt. Phil, I think is referring to what at one time was the best bass lake in the US. (Lake Apopka)

Found it, after testing, trying, and a few choice words. The tach had an extra hot wire on it that worked fine on the old gauge but was causing problems with the new gauges, Also my main power switch had shorted out. The new switch did not come with a diagram and had different pins and connectors so it was a bit of trial and error to get the right connections. Thank you all for your help. Got to love owning an old boat or you will go crazy.

Normally nothing would power up with the key on, until the power switch at the helm was turned on. Now everything powers up once the battery is connected. Unfortunately, i do not have a wiring diagram. I recently installed new gauges in the boat, but I did not change any wires. I took the old ones off and put the new ones on in same manner. Maybe something came loose? I assume no power should get to the helm if the ignition switch is off? Maybe my ignition switch is shorted and lets power through all the time? Thank you for any and all suggestions.

This just started and I need some help. When I hook up my battery, everything at the helm powers up gauges, lights, etc. even though the key is in the off position and the power switch at the helm is off. I pulled the power switch out and everything is still powered. I have a new power switch to try but I do not think it is the problem. Could the ignition switch be the problem? Sorry, I am not good with the electrical stuff, but I have a volt meter and can check things if I know what to check. My boat is a mid eighties bass boat with an evinrude outboard if that helps. Thanks.

I like TW, great website, great products, weekly new item videos,etc. However lately it has changed. Not sure if it is Covid, supply, demand, or jacked-up California over regulation. I have 2 orders from last fall with several backordered items. The website says they are in stock. I emailed and they said they would be getting backorders filled soon. I got another email saying one out of four would be sent out soon? Hopefully they get back on track.

I like these baits and have had success with the jerkbait. They seem well made, good colors, and reasonably priced. Which H20 express have you had success with? Name and color if known. Thanks.

My boat is older (1986 model). With boat prices today, it is becoming apparent I will not be getting a different boat anytime soon. So I am wondering about some small, cheaper upgrades to make it feel new again. I am thinking maybe new gauges, new steering wheel, stuff like that. Anybody done stuff like this? Suggestions? Thanks.

That thing would scare the crap out of most bass I catch.

I stay on a pretty tight budget, ok i'm cheap. I did buy a couple of Megabass lures to see what the hype was. Do they catch bass? yes. Do my other lures catch bass? yes. Did I notice a big difference? no. Like with all fishing, I think it is more on when, where, and conditions that make those differences. Let each person decide on their gear, what they can afford, and have faith in what you throw. Even a kid with a cheap combo on the dock has probably outfished the many high end bass boats out on the water, at least once Lol.

Sorry should have been a bit more clear. I have a much older outboard and I was not the original owner. I am not sure how well it was maintained and if it was flushed regularly. I do get some overheating from time to time. I have replaced Thermostats and water pump and done the usual maintenance things. I think if I could flush the water passages with a good cleaner I may get it to run a bit cooler. So any ideas on a flush mixture?, I really do not want to remove heads to clean it out manually, because with an older engine that may have been run in salt water, it would be too easy to break a head bolt off inside.

No matter if you boat in salt or freshwater, your outboard water passages can become compromised by, calcium, lime, corrosion, salt, and possibly even some bio growth. What product do you use and does it seem to work for you? Many have tried products like, Rydlyme, white vinegar, CLR, Lime away, Salt Away, Simple Green, Dawn, even caustics like acids. Some can be bad for aluminum, not to mention gaskets seals, o-rings and impellers. What do you recommend and do you flush with muffs with a solution mixer, or run engine in a large water tub mixture? Thanks

^^^6^^^ Something most wont know from a great band out of the past from Atlanta GA. Used the album, because most of the live stuff was not recorded very well. Hope you like it.

Not sure if it's different, but rarely see others try it. While everyone is using their TM along the bank, if there is a light breeze I will go to the middle of the lake and just drift with a soft plastic bait, T-rig light weight, about 20 yards behind the boat. That bait drifting at the same direction and speed as other stuff in the water looks very natural. It is no secret, but at times works better than beating the bank. FYI, our lakes are shallow so I am not catching deep water fish. Not sure if it's different, but rarely see others try it. While everyone is using their TM along the bank, if there is a light breeze I will go to the middle of the lake and just drift with a soft plastic bait, T-rig light weight, about 20 yards behind the boat. That bait drifting at the same direction and speed as other stuff in the water looks very natural. It is no secret, but at times works better than beating the bank. FYI, our lakes are shallow so I am not catching deep water fish.

Strange ad, it does not state size, weight, or what model of the lure you are ordering. Be interesting to hear if it works.

That was it, very cool thanks for posting. That was a good one.

I used a type of twin spin that was sold by BPS back in the early 80's. It looked like a double spinnerbait. A spinner at the top, a spinner at the bottom, and a plastic grub with the hook that came in the middle between the blades straight back from the loop line tie. I don't remember the name of it. I caught many bass on that thing until I lost it to a toothy pike. I have never seen another like it.

Hey A-Jay what size rubber bands are those, and where do you get them? That looks very organized and I like that idea.

As stated before, maybe the prior owner had extra weight in the boat or the weight not distributed. How many people/weight/ were in the boat on your test run? Weight can change everything, I know it makes a huge difference on my boat. Next time out, clean out the boat and take just the essentials to see if there is a difference. Good luck, always fun to have a new to you toy to play with.

1. Senko 2. Fat Ika 3. Swimming Senko 4. 3.8 Kietech swing impact fat 5. Zoom super fluke 6. Zoom trickworm 7. Zoom baby brush hog 8. twist tail grub 9. Tube 10. RI. skinny dipper