rippin-lips

Getting parts installed on the Steez sv tw. Zpi pg spool with Zpi Sic bearings. Upgraded drag star, 90mm carbon handle with rcs cork knobs and hedgehog gold knob caps. Still waiting on my Hedgehog order to get here next week. Some other Zpi and Hedgehog goodies coming for it.

I’ll remove the sideplate to see if it’s dry or overdone. If it’s dry then I take care of that by doing a full breakdown. If overdone then I remove what I can with q-tips and go fish it a few time to see how I like it. Also depends on time of year. If it’s winter when I tend to purchase then I tear them down right away.

1/4 - 1/2oz+ is typical bass gear. MH rod will fit the bill. Nothing really bfs ish about those weights. Megabass Hyuga series offers some 2pc rods.

A friend just purchased a tatula sv from them when eBay had the 15% off coupon last week. They contacted him a few days later and said they ‘lost’ his reel and they’d have to issue a refund. Didn’t bother with mentioning replacing it. He agreed to the refund and it took them a few days to issue it back to him. Luckily he found another for only a penny more from a different seller today when he got his refund. Their feedback is very good and I’m sure his situation doesn’t happen often but I thought I’d share it since you asked.

I’ve heard a kastking reel on a favorite rod with spool speed bearings, can easily toss a weightless senko 85 yards.

Tackle Trap has them in stock. @freelancer27 http://tackletrap.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=898_660_656&sort=20a&page=2

The stock tdz 103 spool with gold inductor is just an average spool. The tdz R+ spool is something special though. Prettt easy to control and is great for distance. You can order the inductor assembly from Japan but after shipping will probably be around $45 total. Still a good price since you got the spool for free and the R+ spools sell for about $60 these days. RCS 1016 is good too. Don’t come up for sale as often as they used to but going rate is about $50 when they do.

The reel is worth about $100 these days. Possibly up to $125 if it’s in really good condition and the buyer doesn’t care if it has a box and documents or not. Still not a bad deal on the rod if you are able to sell the reel for $100.

Adjust spool tension on the sv reels so there is the slightest amount of side to side wiggle in the spool. Set brakes at 1/2 way and work your way down to where you can control it the best. SV reels have neither mag V or mag Z braking. They use what Daiwa calls air brake. Not all reels will act the same due to the strength of the magnets in the palm side plate and the inductor on the spool. For example the SV103 has strong magnets in the side plate and the inductor is long on the stock spool. I can turn the brakes down to 2 and have no fluff. I can go to 1 and have to use a little thumb to control it. I can’t do that on my Steez SV 103 though. Even though the spool has the same length inductor. The lowest setting I can go down to is 4 on the brake dial. Throw the aftermarket RCS 1012SV spool in it and I can’t go lower than 6. That sucker is pretty fast.

I don’t believe he is on BR.

Any gears from the original zillions and the SV103 will fit. SV103 only comes in 2 ratios as you know, but the og zillions had a few others. Just incase if you were wanting a different ratio. You’ll need to purchase the main and pinion gear. Contact Ryan Leung at Pro J Fishing. He should be able to get the parts for you.

The J&W is very unpopular due it being pretty tip heavy and the TV being so close in comparison. Depending on jig/trailer weights the tour versatile might be a better option. It’s pretty stout and doesn’t really load up that well with anything under 3/8. 1/2 loads a lot better.

Only thing gear ratio would affect in the ‘cast’ would be the retrieve back. A lower gear ratio doesn’t take up as much line per 1 turn of the reel handle.

Hand tight then like another 1/4 turn to align to screw hole in the cap/retainer. I use the hedgehog studio wrench but any will work.

Obviously it was a problem straight from the factory and not the seller‘s fault. I highly doubt they take each reel out of the box and check all the adjustments to be sure that everything is working properly. Especially when it’s a new reel being sold. I’ve been purchasing and selling on eBay since 2002 and I’ve bought dozens of reels on there. I have yet to experience any trouble with getting an issue corrected

Abu silicote works well and is also pretty cheap. All my reels are Daiwa and have either brass or aluminum main gears. Never any issues with any of them. Don’t use hot sauce. It stains everything red and cakes up.

ZPI F0 longcast - $17.99 at Tackle Trap. Daiwa oem red/blue oil works well too.

It’s a big step down from the previous xx line of rods. The hyuga has received good feedback and would be a step up from the levante. You are correct on the old rating of 2oz. That rod had a great tip section and made it feel less powerful than it was. That’s why it gets such high praise because of its tip. I actually sold my f6 tour versatile because it felt more stout than the perfect pitch and didn’t seem to load up as well. 2oz may of been a little generous but I’ve pitched 1.25oz tungsten/hook/bait with it and that is at least 1.5oz total weight.

Not enough rod for 3/4oz plus trailer. You’re pushing 1oz plus at that point. Perfect Pitch would be what you want. The og PP is an amazing rod. If they improved on it as claimed then it should make one sweet stick.

If you measure the washers, you could give Dawn at smooth drag a call. They have a bunch of sizes and possibly have ones that’ll match up. You could also buy a sheet of the carbontex washer material and cut your own drag washers from it.

Prices recently went up with tubes exceeding a certain length. I’ve used the main 3 shippers and have only been under $30 one time. It happened to be a rod going about 2hrs from where I live and it was $20. I always insure rods for retail value though.

Swapping out the spring for a stiffer one should do the trick. While it’s apart I’d upgrade the ramp to the newer one to avoid any sticking. Contact Bryan (spankey) at Tackle Trap for the parts. They usually have both in stock. I had the inductor shortened on two of my sv103 spools by 40 thousandths. It helped a little but was a pain to do according to my buddy who did it.

Stock Zonda spool is nice if you can get one cheap. I still prefer the stock alphas sv 105 spool with a tuned inductor. It works well up to 3/8oz ish baits. After that it doesn’t hold enough line for me.

Yes, depending on how light you’re talking. Unless you pick up a finesse spool such as the Megabass honeycomb finesse spool or something of the sort.

Search on youtube for tatula bearing install. I did a video for boca on a lh tatula and to add the one bearing it has to be taken apart. That will show you how to tear it down to at least clean/grease the main and pinion gear inside. You will need to scrub them with an old toothbrush. I use a mix of simple green and water. Once everything is dry and ready to go back together add a small dab of grease to the yoke. That’s the plastic part the pinion gear rides in. Add a small dab of grease to the end of each yoke spring. Use a flat/wide paintbrush to grease 1/2 of the main gear. Then spin the driveshaft by hand... That’ll work the grease around the entire gear. It’s really easy once you do your first reel.