Fishingmickey

The righties are in stock at TW. Go to Cabelas, cash in the gift cards. Go buy the 10% off gift card at TW save the ten bucks you burned in gas going to Cabelas. Get your SLX for 90 bucks and 2nd day air it for 5 bucks extra or just heck go fed ex overnight for 10. You'll have either your SLX150XG 8.2:1 or SLX150 6.3:1 by Friday. Sorry they are sold out of the SLX150HG 7.3:1 righties. Lefties are supposed to be in stock Jan. 1. All humor aside. I'd love to hear how you like that reel. Regards, Fishingmickey

Cgolf, A lot has to do with the diameter of braid your putting on. If your planning on putting on 20# braid (6lb mono equivalent) your Curado 200K will hold a metric poop ton or probably close to 200 yards of 20# braid(not saying you have a Curado K just used as an example). If you use 50# briad it will hold about a 110 yards. But look at the diameters of your braid and compare it to the amount of mono your reel specification shows how much line it will hold. You should get a good approximation of how much the reel will hold and guide you on how much to spool. I wouldn't get fixated by a exact number. I spool my baitcasters about 50/50. 50% mono backing and then fill with braid. There is no way with the information given, meaning the reel specs (how much does it hold) and brands of mono backing/lb test of braided lines that are going to be used that an accurate answer can be provided. I try to match my mono diameter with the braid diameter I am spooling or at least get it somewhat close. I'd look at your 150' goal per reel. You might be short changing yourself. WRB has it spot on his post match up your line diameters and you should get pretty close. Or just go to the football field with a friend. G'luck, Fishingmickey

I have been a Shimano fan boy for many, many years. I've tried some of the Abu garcia Black max and Silver max round reels probably 20 years ago and they didn't last. They sucked. Since I started kayak tournament fishing. My rod and reel collection has exploded to close to 30 set ups. Almost all of my reels are Shimano. The last year and a half or so I have gotten a couple of baitcasters. Diawa 105SV and a not to be mentioned ***. I just my first Daiwa spinning reel from the TW 25 days sale. A EM-MS2506H-JDM Have had a couple of outing with it. I have been pleased so far with my non-Shimano selections. I really think that the reel manufacturers have really upped their game in the last 10 years. Fishingmickey

Just one thought to add here. I do not tie the FG knot while in the Yak. I tie them at home under good light with my cheaters on, where I can sit comfortably and where I can keep good tension on the braid. I suspect after practice I would be able to tie a good knot on the Yak. FM

White, Chartreuse and light shad mimicking colors for me. FM

I have been in that same camp running straight fluoro. I have been experimenting with braid and the FG knot. I really like the FG and how it goes through the guides in either direction. I have had no FG knot failures yet. It has taking some practice to tie good FG knots. With the braid being tied on to a single diameter line that knot is so much thinner in diameter then the alberto or uni to uni or any doubled over line knot. So I might be jumping on the braid to leader band wagon if the experimenting continues to yield excellent results. Fishingmickey

Getting back to the rod length topic. I like to fish 7' rod's or better from the kayak. The main reason being is if I have the fish go under the boat I can easily reach around the bow to change sides and keep up with the fish. I can see some advantages to having a shorter rod. When working in close quarters you can get enough swing to cast with and fishing a jerk bait or walk the dog retrieve would be easier. Fishingmickey

Beautiful Smallmouth J Franco! Almost A-Jayesque.

I've thought about adding a extension bar to one of the pedal drive legs on the mirage drive. Like a short 2'-3' dowel that would be removable so I wouldn't have to bend over to manipulate the pedal drive for the stroke or two to maintain position. I think I could fabricate something that would fit into the top of the square tubing or over it. then when not in standing mode just remove and stow in the cockpit. FM

Should be a fine piece of kit IMHO. I have a JDM Scorpion DC that I love. FM

X2

TW takes better pictures then I do. Here is the link. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-DAIWARELLS.html?from=basres All of my other spinning reels are Shimano. It compares very favorably so far. It is very smooth (as new reels should be). It feels well balanced when reeling. I haven't got a lot of stick time on it yet. Regards, FM Hi Tbag, It spooled up fine and fished fine. I haven't had anything big enough to test it out yet. Like the Tatsu line it was wrapped perfectly on the spool out of the package. FM

It showed up yesterday and it is a really nice combo. Heck of a deal from TW. I'm very pleased! Spooled it up with some 6 lb Seaguar finesse and going to test drive it here in a couple of hours.

Fishmas box delivered to Santa's sleigh and on it's way! Fishingmickey

I have done well with them. The CD25 is pretty big. FM

I have one on the way along with a Diawa EM-MS JDM reel. Should be a sweet combo. FM

Well DG, I am not like a lot of people then. I may change the line on some of my heavy use rigs two or three times in a year (mono or fluorocarbon). Braid I will cut back 8-10' when it starts looking a little fuzzy and change it completely out after a couple of years. I don't know how much you fish or how many rigs you use when your fishing. Those factor in to line change equation. The other thing that will make me change line is bird's nesting (bad severe one's-the expanded verbiage type), line getting stretched by having to turn a big fish, strained from trying to unsnag a lure, dragging that shopping cart up from the depths or being drug over rocks, concrete walls and such. Fluorocarbon really hates to be kinked in my opinion. the biggest culprit of that is if your trying to pick out a birds nest and you pull hard on the line. The loop that is preventing the line coming off the reel gets tension-ed and kinks badly and will break at the next available opportunity or sooner. Subsequently I pick my fluorocarbon birds nests out gently If you fish a lot and are hard on your line. you really should change out your line more then once a year. If your not fishing much and you mostly fish clear (meaning not many obstructions) clean water. You store your rigs indoors out of the sunlight. You probably don't need to change your line every year. Me, I personally hate not knowing if my line is in 100% best shape. the chance at losing that personal best or filling the winning stringer or nailing down that big bass award ain't worth going cheap on the line. Regards, Fishingmickey Daggummit A-jay... you beat me to it.

One of the most awesome things I did as a kid was year we had the 17 year Cicada hatch. I was a caddy at a local golf course.and when we (the foursome) would get close to a water hole. I'd catch a Cicada and throw it in the water. The Cicada would start fluttering it's wings and buzzing. It would be buzzing and spinning in circles then Kasploose! The explosions were amazing when the bass would nail them. FM

I personally like the added vibration imaging lines off of each appendage.

Just got wind of whom this morning. Will be packing up a box to send tomorrow. FM

I think Fishballer is spot on. You might try down sizing not just the trailer but the head size also. Go to maybe a 1/8 or 3/16 oz. head as shallow as the pond is a 1/4 oz underspin sinks pretty fast if you try to slow it down. Then slow it down and make sure your hooks are sharp. Good luck, Fishingmickey

I also have to consult counsel. One thing I did learn is it takes about two days before a bass will bite again after being caught. I also found it amazing about how aware a bass is to something introduced into it's surroundings. FM

The snakey channels & pond at the top of the cove look very good too. That mid cove hump & channel is sexy. Looks like good place to check out. FM

Dunno Paul, I zoomed in on your picture pretty good and it looks like there is little lines radiating away from the scuff/scratch line which might be cracks. It may just be superficial and you'll get twenty years use out of the rod before you snap the tip off in your hovercraft hatch. Other thing is if those lines are cracks it may fail on the next cast or three or when it gets stressed. Maybe check it out under a magnifying glass or microscope and make sure you enrolled in G Loomis's warranty program for when it does break? FM

<<<<no brainer and got the Diawa JDM reel to go with it. FM