Jig Man

12.3 volts is not a charged battery. 12.6 is needed to be fully charged. You should be replacing that one. When you have to replace the trolling motor battery get the highest reserve capacity that you can find. That is what gives you trolling motor time.

That would depend on how close the dealers are. I will tell you that I have a 2016 Z20. In the first year the axel with the brakes locked up destroying the brakes and bearings, the charger had a bank go bad and the custom cover had a ripped seam. By the third year the carpet developed black streaks and had to be replaced. How close is that Blazer dealer to you?

I use the Pitzen for all lines.

I had an Optimax that would overheat if I idled more than a few minutes. We replaced all kinds of stuff even the head gaskets. Nothing ever stopped it. I just had to be sure to run not idle.

For me it isn’t size it is condition. If there are rocks or timber I retie often. If not I don’t think about it.

I fish it several ways with bottom contact being one of them. I use 3 sizes, 1/16, 3/32, and 1/8. 1/16 is used 90% of the time even for bottom contact out to 25’.

Yes Humminbirds work with Minn Kota. Your tmotor has a universal xducer in it. It is for 2d sonar. If you want side and down you will have to get the mega ducer when you get a new unit.

Do you have the correct ducer selected on your unit?

I can’t think of any.

Personally I like M better for cranking than MH.

I think we have a definition problem here. The lakes that I fish have 100s to over 1000 miles of shore line. If I find fish on a particular type of cover or structure and nothing adjacent to that, I begin my run and gun hitting places similar. If similar places produce then the run is on. I have run up to 40 miles one way just to hit a similar spot.

There are lots of knots that you can use that will go easily through the rod eyes.

You can wind it on anything, even a paper towel or tp core. I’ve used a piece of cardboard. You can get a longer life on it by reversing ends after a year or two of service.

I recommend AGMs. They are maintenance free and can be mounted in non traditional positions. The ones at Sam’s Club are supposed to be very good and reasonably priced. Get a 10-15 amp per bank with a bank for every battery in the boat.

You must have pretty deep pockets if you can do all of that and manage school. It sounds to me like you plan for this to be an interim boat. If that is the case, my recommendation is to fix things needing repair and skip the big ticket items. Since you have power poles do you need spot lock? If the 90 is working, I wouldn’t change it out. So from your post I’d do pump, carpet and seats. That alone may be a couple of grand. Plan on getting $.25 to $.50 on the dollar for your upgrades when you sell or trade the boat (for example, when I traded my Champion in I had 2 Lowrance HDS 9 and a 12. They only offered $600 for all three. I gave a 9 to a friend and sold the other two for $1900.).

You can make a master like you want then build yourself a mold. You use several different materials for the master. Molds can be made from silicone, fiberglass resin, and plaster of paris just to name a few. There are bait making sites where you can get lots of info about how to do it.

I am looking for a rod. I have found several that would be perfect if they didn’t have split grips. They remind me of artificial limbs.

Got any old socks?

Only thing I am thinking, do you need a shaft that long?

X2

It all depends on how I am fishing and where I find fish. Sometimes it is run and gun. Sometimes it is slo mo.

I don’t have locks. I have replacement non deductible for theft and vandalism insurance.

That is the one I use. It was recommended by a friend who works for the Corps of Engineers. That is what they wear.

I have mine set so there is a little slip when I set the hook. That way I can’t break it on the hook set. I can always add drag with my off hand or thumb.

I’ve mounted LSS and Total Scans using Transducer Shield and Saver mounts.