garroyo130

Yeah, I'm referring to the clutch and its springs. I do not take out the AR bearing itself on mine. Are you able to fully assemble (handle and everything) and record the sound?

? Video of clicking? Is it clicking when reeling or when turning the reel upside down? How do you notice clicking before handle is on?? First thing I would check is to make sure all c-clips are on where they need to go. For the K i believe that means the bearing at the bottom of the main shaft and the level wind bushing. Second thing would be to make sure the drag stack is seated properly. Last thing would be to make sure that everything related to AR is installed correctly. Check the spring especially since it likes to dance around.

From the bank, the best change I made was going to as light a weight as possible. When I was throwing the 1/4oz that everyone recommends, I'm sure I was getting many bites that went undetected. Once I got down to 1/16th, I was better able to see takes and also got many more takes on the initial drop.

Maybe I don't specialize to the level you do, but I don't associate braking profiles with techniques. The difference was after owning the Curado K and servicing it. The design is my biggest gripe. Having all screws screw into the graphite side plate vs the aluminum frame, the design and location of the worm gear (still not a fan of plastic here either), and the fact that somehow, someway water easily finds its way inside the reel through regular usage is what made me not a fan. I'm also not the biggest fan of the reels casting profile as even after cleaning, lubing, and oiling bearings with TSI 321 it doesn't perform well with lighter baits. Tatula SV can be had at a similar price point $180 - $200 and has a better design (minus T wing) and a better braking system.

IMO diminishing returns begin when you shop stupidly. As an example, I got carried away by the hype of the Curado K and purchased one without every handling it. I tried to convince myself I liked it but at the end of the day IMO its not a great reel. Had that same amount been spent on a Tatula SV, I have no doubt I would have been pleased. I think there's gems at every price point as long as you look hard enough.

I wonder at what rod price point line starts to matter more? Or y'all throwing big game on them Exprides?

Reviving this one ... Did anyone end up trying the Salamandura 150 SV spool swap on a Tatula/Fuego CT? If so, did it fit? How does it perform?

I don't think SV spools fit, only BFS. But I'm sure someone smarter than me will know for sure ...

Yeah, I was intrigued by the double handle Nasci for $60 ... but I definitely don't need it lol

Just arrived. Perfect unused condition. Incredible steal @ $73.50... now to sell my Curado K and get an ultralight Vanford

Why are you set on 4000? Surf fishing?

*IN THE TIME IT TOOK ME TO POST HERE, IT SHOWED SOLD OUT* Walmart just had Curado 150 MGL $73.50. Shipped and sold by Walmart. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shimano-Fishing-CURADO-MGL-150-Low-Profile-Reels-CUMGL150/789639749?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227789639749_167635139001_19190274142&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=704237339194&wl4=pla-1409824743790&wl5=9028322&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=789639749&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI56rQ2sCkhwMVhHJ_AB3j3wHhEAQYBiABEgJRyvD_BwE Not sure if it was a pricing mistake or it was legit sold out but I picked one up and am hoping it doesnt get cancelled.

Looks like they only got into the marketing business tbh

So to confirm, pinion and bearing are out of the reel but fused together? If yes, then a 50/50 of acetone and trans fluid is the best penetrant I've found.

IMO those two sizes aren't different enough to make a difference when it comes to line memory or casting distance. If bass fishing, I also don't see a scenario where you need more line capacity. Using the right type of line and preventing line twist (making sure line roller works, closing bail manually) have a far bigger impact on line management than spool size.

sounds cursed ...

I believe that trophy bass hunter Bill Murphy mentioned something about most of the largest bass all sharing spots as a feature. I may be mistaken though.

They should be screwed in tightly. I've messed with knobs on a handful of Fuegos and all have tightened fully. Whenever I experience that issue it usually had to do with the position of the shims. On some it was bushing > shim > handle > bushing, others had the shim in other places such as nearer to the screw. I messed with the handles a ton and never really could determine why the order made a difference but it did.

I wouldn't say they're necessarily bad quality. I have a Mod/Med casting rod going on about 7 years now? that has help up perfectly.

Just seeing Ultegras for $100ish ... great deal! I'd definitely jump on that if I needed/wanted one

This is the way ...

I would make one of those a MH/M or H/M for deep cranks

A tiny bit past hand tight with retainer over the top ... sounds like you dont have the retainer?

I have an UL that is very whippy and I purchased it exclusively to fish the real ultralight stuff like micro spoons and trout magnets without a float. Its a blast catching trout and panfish and I've even caught some decent bass on it. The whippiness does help with casting, but I believe its more beneficial in protecting the light line you are fishing with. Your problem could also be that you're afraid to load the rod properly. I know when I first fished my UL, something about bending it all the way to the butt section felt wrong and I was afraid I would snap it. Once I got over that fear all was good.

Daiwa Japan Gekkabijin Ajing Jighead Sharp is an understatement.