garroyo130

One of the things I noticed really hurt my tying was the finishing knot. I used to cinch it down with a double or triple overhead before pulling the braid and leader. I realized what was happening is the tight finishing knot was preventing the FG from tying. Single overhand knot from now on or rizzuto but not cinched too tight.

I have successfully swapped the gears from a Tatula CT 100p (5.4:1?) on a Fuego CT. Straight drop-in replacement. Parts below from my order: Order Lines 1 EA $ 5.64 H99-2201 Pinion Gear | LATE JAN ARRIVAL 1 EA $ 12.44 H99-2301 Drive Gear Total Amount: $ 18.08 Total Qty.: 2 I have also called Shimano about swapping to lower on a Curado K since the slow version wasn't released until last year. Was told too many parts would need to be swapped including drag stack.

During winter, strip reel down to frame and clean everything using diluted simple green. Bearings get soaked in mass air flow cleaner. Sometime during summer, open up and regrease gears and pinion bearing but not a complete teardown. Based on visual inspection or feel/sound, I will lubricate bearings, clean brake drum, etc. Grease for gears/drag is Cals Tan. Oil for spool bearings is TSI 321. Oil for all frame bearings is gear oil.

YZH has a weird rating system. 4# YZH is the equivalent to about a premium 6# or 8# in terms of breaking strength and diameter ... That said its my primary line of choice ... for the waters I fish, smoke gray color blends well

Id wager to say that Big Game is probably the #1 selling line in the country ... mono aint going anywhere

The I series are notorious for that noise during casting. Make sure that the brake drum is oiled and the brake blocks clean of debris. Even with a season of heavy use it shouldn't be worn to the point of needing replacement ...

What'd you break on the I?

I was going to answer Curado E but it looks like the going rate for excellent condition or new in box is now $275 and up ... geez

Wrap it around hand a million times as i remove it then cut the looped line twice so strips are no longer than about 3" and throw in regular trash

I usually set it to zero spool play and make sure my arbor knot is centered as well as the line guide. I honestly would leave it as is. I too tend to be OCD about stuff but that minor difference will probably even itself out with use.

Amount looks fine but the stack looks slightly higher on the brake side than the handle side. To fix that, adjust the spool tension knob next time you spool up.

I hear the DC systems wear out every thousand years or so ... so there's that

Definitely a solid deal. Especially considering you can regularly get them for around or under $80 if you look around.

Looks like its that way by design

What are you trying to buy?

I think he meant Shishamo

Since I've started fishing, I've gradually moved towards lighter and lighter line weights under the thought that a thinner line would allow the bait to move more naturally. Lately though, I have begun to question this as I feel that achieving neutral buoyancy may be of greater importance than maximizing the action of the bait. So my question is does anyone here use "heavier" lines for any given technique in order to slow down the rate of fall of the bait?

6# mono = .009" Just go off their stated capacity for 6# mono

Ande is the only one we can confidently say has true breaking strengths which havent changed since its an IGFA record line ... who knows about the rest

Thats just the reel's way of telling you to close it manually

My guess would be pinion support/x ship bearing. Gear oil or grease on that bearing is what i use.

Their website lists the bearings as ... ABEC 9???

Cant we just change the title to why copolymer is a good compromise and forget this happened?