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.RM.

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Everything posted by .RM.

  1. Yeah there is no Brushmaster.. I have placed the schematics for both the BrushBuster 10 and 11 up for him and PM'd the link..... Tight Lines All!!!
  2. I agree with The Natural...I also like the Chronarch colors on it...Tight Lines!!!!
  3. I have never heard of the Brushmaster series, sorry I don't have the schematic for it. If it is anything like the BrushBuster posted in the pics, then I can say that the direct drive switch is going to be a bear to get working again. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  4. Turn the thumbscrew on the crank side just above the crank assembly..
  5. This is why I NEVER open a reel I don't have the schematic for........ Are you sure it say Bantam Brushmaster 11. I have a Bantam Brush Buster 10 from back in the days. I have every schematic for the Shimano line put out since the early 80's in PDF, and the only Bantam Brush anything I have back in 1985 are the Brush Busters. If it is in fact this reels bigger brother BrushBuster11, I have the schematic for it and can post it for download for you, just let me know..... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  6. Two shims in the reel, one under the cast control cap and one under the spool support bearing in the palming side plate. I have also found that replacing the ceramic shims under the spool support bearings with the older (Quantum) copper shims polished will also add to relieve any high speed high pitch squealing that is happening. I also think re-cleaning the support systems and re-oiling with any reel oil other than HS will help. Just my .02¢ from the bench. Tight Lines!!!
  7. DanekM, Have you tried a drop of oil on the spool shaft shims?
  8. This isn't something that you learn by reading an article on it, and there surly isn't enough room to explain it all here. It takes a lot of practice to get a guide replaced and wrapped the right way. YOU should return the rod to the mfg. and have them do the work. Or find a local rod builder and have it done. Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  9. Yeah that article I wrote for replacing the old black poly caps you see on a lot of rods. I figured that if you had one on the rod your working on then it would help explain the process with some pics.. I don't use those caps anymore (mostly rubberized cork), and haven't had a chance to write one for those types of butt caps yet. Good Luck & Tight Wraps!
  10. I have been a life member of B.A.S.S. since the early 80's and have never been contacted by the organization via phone. I would not give any info to any company phishing like that, and the national do not call list "does not" and "never has" worked. Just my .02¢ Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  11. The idiot is trying to use the term "Limited Edition" to sell that Daiwa Re-branded piece of junk. Graphite frames don't hold up, and there is NO support for the reel. Tight Lines!!!
  12. Hey Cracker, Check here and do it yourself.... Rod Tip Repair Tight Lines!!!
  13. I thought this was answered before on another thread, but i'll try. As a builder if I were and I don't like to modify older rods, this is what I would do... First off if the rod has a black poly butt cap remove that carefully. Then take notice of the shape of the area the butt cap sits on. If no butt cap then move on to the next step. Measure and mark how much of the original cork you intend on removing, and mark the rings... Now take a box knife (with a new sharp blade) and cut around on your mark. Make the cut all the way to the blank. Now peel the cork off of the section you intent to cut... Next using masking tape, tape around the blank (don't worry about cleaning any old epoxy off), now using either a dremel and cutoff wheel or, a hacksaw (with fine cutting blade). Carefully cut the blank at the mark you have made... Now using a superfine 3M sanding pad clean up the blank edges and with some 60grt start re-shaping the cork to accept the butt cap again... Once you have it all ready to be epoxied use a 5min 2 part waterproof epoxy and remount the butt cap... I think that's it, if I have forgotten anything I am sure the other builders here will chime in. Ohh...Here is the link to an article on how to remove the poly butt cap if you need..... Replacing Those Old Black Poly Butt Caps With A NEW Cork Composite Butt Cap Good Luck!
  14. Here ya go......How I Marble A Rod
  15. That's great now catch your PB and we want pics..... Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!!
  16. Thats how he pays his bills........[br] This is a quote from another thread that just fits here.....
  17. Welcome To The Forum!!! Tight Lines!!!
  18. Call them and find out.. U.S. Head Office OKUMA FISHING TACKLE CORP. 2310 E. Locust Court, Ontario CA 91761 Tel: 909-923-2828 Fax: 909-923-2909 1-800-GO-OKUMA, 1-800-466-5862
  19. Because they are only replacing the spool support bearings (5x11x4mm & 3x8x4mm), IMPO ABEC7 rated bearings will not bring you any more than the ABEC5 rated bearings for upgrade...Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  20. 3/8 will work, the only reason I suggested the heavier practice plug is I try to stay in the middle of the rods lure ratings when I suggest practice weights.
  21. I hear ya, I still use my old Quantum EX301 it was the only LH cranking reel produced in the mid 90's by Quantum, had a GR of 3.8:1.. We bought up about 10 of them at that time and then the EX's were discontinued, I kept one and we re-geared the rest to 6.2:1. The only one's I know of now are the Daiwa PT33C and the Quantum 1310CP all with 3.8:1 GR's and only in RH. Well Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  22. Sounds like you have yourself a nice system... I personally would be setting up and practicing with a 5/8oz practice plug. Practice, Practice, Practice! Just my .02¢ from the bench. Good Luck & Tight Lines!!!
  23. Thanks RW. Yeah, I'm not trying to discourage buying a baitcaster here. I just feel like RW stated, that while your trying to learn a new setup you will also need that spinning system. Once you do get your new BC system, here is a fool proof way to learn it.... Basic Baitcast Reel Setup 101 Just my .02¢ from the bench.. Time to build some more rods....... Tight Lines!!!
  24. Just a thought here. While you are at the tackle shop ask them and find out if they have a service tech. If they do, have them service your spinning reel don't leave the reel feeling rough. Then get yourself the bait caster..... Just my .02¢ from the bench. Good Luck & Tight Lines!
  25. Chris at Tech, With the proper power and tip action on the rod, and a good line with some stretch the reel should do the trick. As far as the new Revo Winch 5.4:1 isn't a quote end quote IMPO a cranking reel. 4.1:1 and 3.8:1 are better know as cranking gear ratios. Most all of the reels in the 80's up to the mid 90's were in what was called the high speed ratios and they were all 5.1 to 5.4:1 GR's. 6.2:1 didn't rear it's head until the late 90's.Just my .02¢ from the bench... Tight Lines!!!

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