Deephaven

2pc rods are way better than telescoping. They pack smaller too.

Casting speed and action should always be the same for each type of cast. Your thumb then controls the distance. You CANNOT cast effectively without it

Beam is your friend in a shorter boat for stability. The deeper the V generally the better it will handle the cruiser waves. The Suzuki's are great. Before others moved to fuel injection I had one and it was flawless . The new ones are even better.

Maui Jim's with GLASS lenses. Bronze for overcast and gray with green mirror for sunny days.

Snowblower and snowmobile/sled. Get into Canada and they call them Ski Doos. I hear in WI they call that a pubic hair trimmer.

Your thumb is your distance control mechanism. Why wouldn't you want to use it?

If I could buy mono/flouro without stretch I would....that is without upsizing the line. If I want a spring in the system I will do it with my rod, not my line. Line & rod have to work as a system. I see no value in using a stiff rod and then a spongy line.

Since you are asking the question, my answer would be no way no how. It is expensive, doesn't deal with backlashes well, and you are at a stage where you will be respooling many times in the upcoming months. Save yourself the headache and expense and use Big Game. Most will recommend something like 12lb, but to start I would upsize. Thicker line is easier to keep from getting completely jacked when you mess up a cast. Big Game is cheap enough you can start with 20 and then move to 15 and not feel like you wasted any money.

Action and feel is awful with a stretchy line. It is a MUST that my jerkbait/moving top water rod have braid. I also can't imagine frog fishing with anything but braid. I'd lose frogs like crazy.

In grass, I fish weightless wacky rig senkos on a MH spinning rod with braid. I up the hook for the cover as well using a much stouter fly fishing hook. This allows me to rip it out of cover and get strikes while not worrying about the cover. I do break off a few worms, but welcome to senko fishing.

I am in the no stretch club as well. Doesn't mean I don't use clear lines but the reason is not for stretch.

You are setting the hook too early. The SF doesn't need its hooks turned up as it is gloriously soft, but it is super easy to set the hook on sight instead of feel which will make you miss fish.

They weren't ready today. Nothing near them. It is where I wasted too much time... ......again Not that I threw a frog, but I wanted to

I couldn't believe how mid summer they felt to me already. Lake is at 74 though so it isn't spring anymore.

I ruined a spool today, lol. Skipping docks in boat waves got me.

Definitely Wacker not eater

The y bones are super easy to filet out...and make great fish stock.

Was a good test of rough water handling today. This is what it looked like when I finally said enough and went for a swim. Obviously a protected cove so not rough here, but the number of boats give you an idea what the main lake looked like. I don't eat bass. Almost kept a couple northerns, but they were really slimy already for this time of year...figure it means they are already soft. I like lake fish, but I also like to bass fish so I eat other species.

I went out on Tonka this morning. Fished the main lake. Wanted to see how the Ranger does in it. Caught 8 dinks with the biggest being 2.6lbs. 33" pike was the regrettable highlight of the day. Caught on 12lb big game and no leader.

I always throw a different bait now as I found using the same doesn't work anywhere near as well. A missed strike on a senko is rare though so the need for a follow up bite isn't so strong.

Hitting a stump in a glass boat while at WOT isn't going to end well....but it won't in aluminum either. At that point you need to look at your insurance. Is it worth a claim for a big dent in the metal boat or to fix the hole in the glass. As for hitting them at trolling motor speeds, I think you are better off with the glass boat. It will just bounce off them, perhaps with a small scratch where an aluminum if it finds the soft spot between the reinforcements it will dent. Puncture holes are also more likely in aluminum. I hit a dead head at 60 in my Ranger (not the current one) and it didn't even leave a mark. Had it been anchored to the ground I am sure the results would have been different. Modern glass hulls are designed and reinforced well. I personally would much rather have one for where you are fishing. If you fish remotely where there are a ton of rocks then perhaps a dent is better than a hole, but that is more Canadian shield for me and I am just more careful when I go that way.

Without catastrophic user failure I respool when my spools get low from retying or seasonally for non-braid. The user failure usually occurs on my skipping rod which I use Big Game on so that gets spooled nearly for free, but potentially a few times a year. For my non-braid rods I normally respool them during my yearly reel maintenance. Braid I flip like A-Jay and add backing. It last years...

If you want more "stretch" I'd recommend a softer rod. Rod/line need to match to work well.

Drove by that launch tonight and there were 6 firetrucks and a boat with the engine cover up collecting attention. Complete sh#$ show

When the fishing is bad I like to have a fishing buddy with, when it is what we call hot f#$@ action I enjoy being alone.