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Competatively priced means we have jacked up our prices to meet everyone elses !!!! Just like gas stations, racing to see who can raise theres first!!

Credit cards are for emergencies only and then for some finnancial planning. Get a good quality credit card with a lower interestvrate when you establish a good credit history. My card guarentees my purchases and doubles the product warranty on bigger ticket items. When I buy washers, stoves, new furniture etc I use my card. If I have any issues with the product they get fixed right away or I can stop the payment on my CC. I never have had any problems getting warranty service using my card. Auto repairs, appliance repairs doctor bills all use the card. My interest rate is 12.9% so if it carries for a couple months no big deal. However, using it for large purchases like boats or cars....only if it can be paid off in 6 months or less. You need to work hard to establish your finnancial credit and keep it good in order to get a card like this. Routine credit cards are designed to trap people with high interest rates and long terms. Great advise has been given on here, read it carefully and follow it carefully!! If you can't pay off the majority each month or a max of 6 months, never use a CC...

Everything posted on here is true, been a boat owner for over 60 years, owned wood, glass and aluminum hulls. About 25 years back we hit a submerged steel barrel at about 35 mph, the whole bottom of my aluminum Starcraft pushed up about 2-3 ft but never leaked a drop, made it back to the ramp but had a tough time getting it on the trailer. Sort of tied it in place to get it home. When the insurance adjuster showed up he stated " be glad you were in an aluminum boat". Had it veen a glass boat, it would have shattered on impact and sunk like a rock. In his 20 years of boat claims he has never saw a glass boat that could have with stood that impact and still float !! Now...I hope nothing like that ever happens again, but I do know, I will never own another glass boat just for that reason!! Just food for thought...glass boats can be awesome, beautifull paint jobs, ride nice in chop, solid in the wind, confortable to ride in....but...when in a serious accident....your call.

I sold my kayak at age 66, never cared for the pedal drive type, tried a friends but not my cup of tea...Even with my bad shoulders, the paddling was easier for me. Hated to let it go, but going by myself at my age wasn't a smart thing to do. Neither is going in my 16' outboard, but not ready to stop boating yet.....

Last summer I bought a used outfit that came with a MK with spot lock.....that is awesome!!! Mine is not a newer version and I don't bass fish except for fun once in a while. With the spotlock I no longer fumble with an anchor, mine holds very well in a two ft chop on my 16' Sylvan side console. Haveing the remote hang around my neck makes it so quick and easy to move or change position. I also use mine for trolling for walleye, easy to make a course correction while fighting a fish, never need to leave my comfy seat!! Your gonna love it....glad you were in the right place at the right time!!!

Gonna need some really deep pockets for this baby. With all the electronics in this bad boy, if will cost a fortune to get it fixed. As they lighten these and spin the rpm higher and higher, it makes me wonder how many will be around 40-50 years from now like the ole 60-70's outboards are?? Talk about sticker shock !!

I have a similiar issue with my full roller trailer, after a couple slide backs, I just added some washers to a roller or two, to create some friction. Problem solved, just enough friction to have to push it off !! Over the years and many boat trailers later, I always fine tune my trailers to make loading and unloading easier ! At this time in life, I am mostly by myself, so I look for every advantage to make the job easier. My current 16' Sylvan SC can be loaded and unloaded by myself in a matter of minutes, usually quicker than any others at the ramp. Gotta take the time to solve all the issues!!

My experience with any long term warranties are not that good. Seems there is always a catch. Do you have the original receipt? The original packaging? Questions on how it was charged, how it was stored etc, you need a two page synopsis on how the battery was used and stored, always an excuse to not honor the warranty!! Prorated means nothing...the price of a replacement battery is jacked up sky high so you really dont get much discount ! A real true warranty is the length of time the object will be replaced if it fails to work!! Forget prorating it is a game. So just consider the time you will get a full replacement and how easy it will ve to get that claim. If claim is comming from China, forget it, it probably wont happen....

Just a recomendation here, about 6 years back I needed a small deep cycle battery for use with my big boom sprayer. Ordered a Mighty Max " wheel chair" deep cycle sealed battery...less than 40 bucks shipped to my door! This battery is the size of my atv battery, 12v 12ah rated. Awesome battery, still going strong to this day. I also use it to power my trolling motor on my pond jon boat. Have used it as a backup in my atv, and as an all around general purpose 12v power source. When my grandaughters power wheel battery went bad, this was used in her toy and would run it for well over an hour, where the original battery only lasted 15-20 minutes. You might consider one or more of these as replacements. Often thought about putting two or three of these in a battery box to create a portable power unit. Got mine thru Amazon and I see they are still advertised....just some food for thought....

Whew....after reading all that, why would anyone think that moving to all electric vehicles will work ?? Just an example of the issues we will be faced with when we start driving battery powered vehicles !!!

Don't you have acess hatches for storage ?? My boat has three on the front deck. Open a hatch and look in and under the deck, you should be able to see where the ribs are...

Just like your road vehicle....when you push on the gas pedal, there is no cable or lever or connecting rod that attaches to your fuel induction system under the hood. Just a few wires that send signals to the engine to speed up or slowdown. Been that way for years...scary I know !!! Very little is mechanically operated any more, just electrical signals....

Open up the closest hatch and look, feel around under there. Other than live wells most hatches don't have any sides, so the area under the deck should be open for inspection...

I have a 16' Sylvan with a 55lb MinnKota, 12v. Wiredvto two group 31 batteries, AGM type, can troll all day 8 hrs with no problem.

If his plane ditches in the water, will someone from the hotel bring him a cartridge to the crash site ?? LOL......

If you have issues with WD40 comming off in the water, try some Dow 111 valve lubricant. It is a very sticky silicone grease that does not come off easily in water !! Designed for a lube in high pressure valves and not harmfull to the water. Also used as a diaelectric sealant, I use it when I crimp my electrical connectors. Being silicone grease it is good for plastic/ rubber seals and grommets. Just some food for thought.....

Didn't think about ramps that have no dock, all my ramps have docks so after a quick snap of the winch strap, I just step off on the dock !! Now...if I had to climb over the bow onto the tongue...that might not be so fun,.....

Never used one but have observed others on many ocassions. If you can easily reach iver your bow to attach the winch strap, they might be a waste of money. But...if you can't reach over and attach the winch, then they look like a good idea. At 73 yrs old I looked at them closely, but after watching others and considering the price point, my side console is quite easy to reach over and snap the winch strap on. When I step out to drive up the ramp, a couple cranks to tighten the winch and on my way. Depending on your boat type, ability, etc..your findings may vary......

I understand, didn' t think about skinny water...I dont fish skinny water, so that makes a big difference I guess..however....700 for a pole ?? I picked up my spot lock used for under 500...

Wouldn't spot lock on my trolling motor do the same ? I have used that in two ft chop with 20 mph winds and it stays put....so far !

Good place for it, out of the way. I just use a piece of pvc plastic pipe screwed to the side console, out of the way for me...

A solar charger would be fine for keeping the battery topped off once fully charged, but getting a battery charged back up after use quickly is a key to long life! How hard are you gonna use the TM...long hauls or short runs? Easy going from place to place....these will determine how much battery you need. Best and longest lasting is the Lifepo4, also the most expensive! You can start with a group 24 agm that will last a few hours with moderate use. Or move up to a group 27 and add an extra hour or two, but bigger and a heavier battery. Or move up to group 31 bigger and heavier and more expensive. The battery needs to match the needs and the pocket book of the user..

Welcome to the world of high inflation, if you havent shopped for new boats in the past year or two, you are in for a surprise....big surprise !! Last summer I downsized to a 16' aluminum boat, not seeing much on the used market, I started looking at new models. Sticker shock is a nice way to say " holy $hi#" are boats expensive !! I was looking at 16' side console with 40-50 hp motors at 25K and up to 30K....bass boats were double that !! Went back to the used market but expanded my search out to 250 miles plus. I was lucky and stumbled across a garage queen, like new, original owner boat. Drove over two hundred miles with cash in hand. Owner had all reciepts to back up his story and the boat was imaculate...I never negotiated, just gave him his asking price of 4500, knowing full well a new one was almost 25K !!!

Yes, absolutely true.... We live out in the country, no street lights, so I use motion lights all around my buildings. My power company is not one of the cheap ones. I have about a dozen outdoor lights, and numerous indoor incadesent lights. We are older so brighter lights are a must. My research shows an average 100 watt bulb uses a couple dollars each month in power, wgere an led uses about one dollar per year in power. I also read my own meter every other month because the power company over estimates my bill on the odd months. I switched over to all led bulbs about over two years...almost three years back. My average electric bill in non air conditioning months averaged 150-160 each month, after the total conversuon to led bulbs I now average 100-110 per month.. Just paid my feb bill...106..!! I also only replace a couple bulbs per year where I was replacing 6 or more regular bulbs each month. We used to have 75-100 watt bulbs but now use only 40 watt " daylight" led bulbs and they are brighter than the old 100 watt bulbs. Most everyone we know has changed and are seeing similiar reductions in their electric bills in our area. I have definetly become a believer !! We even replaced all the 12v bulbs in our motorhome with led bulbs. We camp without electricity often, we have a generator if needed but we doubled our battery life going with leds bulbs. We were getting almost two full days on twin deep cycle house batteries before switching over to led bulbs. After the switch we could get almost three days on the same two batteries. LED bulbs only use about 10-15% of the power a regular bulb uses. Try them you will see !!

Led lights are brighter, longer lasting and draw far less power off your boat battery.....so what would be bad? When I find them I am gonna replace my running lights with led bulbs. Already reolaced the trailer ligjts and they are so much better! Even replacing my home lights with led bulbs, already saved over 30% on my electric bill. As I stated...what could be bad about them ??