ABC123

RLR, Does that Pixy have the older GIGAS spool, or have you swapped it out for the tuned one already??? Have you used both the GIGAS spool and the tuned spool??? Is there much of a difference???? Also, what it the line guide from??? A JDM reel or a domestic??? TIA for the info. Looks good with the "new" handles and crank. 8-)

You can get the handles with bearings, as far as I know, they are only a seperate add on. As RLR said, they don't go onto the non bearing Zillions. You need to either get an aftermarket crank that accepts bearing handles, or get a replacement factory handle that comes with bearings. The Steez will work and the "new" TD-Advantage153-HSTA handle is a direct replacement. Both have bearing handles.

Well, see, that is where the questioning comes in. In the package, the glass rap's seem bright. Take them away from the chrome background, and they seem to pick up light and make it "colorful". Not sure if it makes the lure brighter than chrome, more colorful, or not as bright. I guess it comes down to the color of the chrome, and the color of the glass lure??? Kind of hard to compare the brightness when they are different colors.

I gather, by the info I'm picking up, glass cranks are used much like chrome ones??? Becouse of the "prizm" effect on glass lures are they better for very murky water, where chrome will work for stained water??? Glass just better than chrome??? Chrome still better than glass???

It's alway's best to contact the actual carrier you will be using, but as long as it's properly labled with name, address, ect... there should be no issues. They'll X-ray it so they will know EXACTLY what is in it, no issues with that. If your going to hand it over to the airline, I would make sure that both caps are secured with either glue or some type of pin or lock so they don't come off.

I don't watch a lot of fishing shows, but of the ones I have seen, a fairly high percentage of them "high stick". Remember these are the same shows where they stand, with a fish in their hands, and BS for a couple minutes. Anyway's, the most simplistic way I can state highsticking is, if the butt of your rod is closer to the hook/lure than the tip, your high sticking. Another way to put it is, if the line that is in the water, comes closer to the butt of your rod, than the length of your rod, then your high sticking. As an example, if you are using a 7 foot rod, and the fish moves around and the line between the tip and the fish comes closer than 7 feet to your rod handle, that's "high sticking". Highsticking can be misleading. It imply's that you are raising the rod too high, but in fact, it's just as easy, if not easier, to get the same effect while sweeping the rod to the left or right.

PolyVinyl Chloride (PVC) Pipe is white or grey. It does not withstand UV light very well (white), and it has poor impact strength in cold weather. Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) piping is much better for cold, impact, and UV. This is the black pipe you purchased. IMO, it makes great rod cases. Get a length of pipe, glue a cap on one end, leave the other end removeable, get some rod sleeves, and you got yourself a nice hardsided carrier. You can get a small diameter for one or 2 rods, you can get a large one for all kinds of rods. You could get a reducer and use two different diameters, so you can take it apart and store one side inside the other. Your imagination it your only limitation. Heck, if you really wanted to get fancy, you could, cap both ends. cut it lengthwise, down the middle, put a piano hinge on one side and clasps on the other, and you would have a nice clamshell one.

1) A) You can......but why?? By the time you buy heavy gauge wire, connectors, and take the time to install it, you could have bought a trolling motor battery and box, put it in the front of the boat, and been fishing. It will work to use one battery for everything, but your better off, in the long run, to buy a quality deep cycle battery for all the boats power, and use a seperate starting battery just for the motor. You could just add the second battery for the TM, and leave the rest alone. Odd's are your going to need at least 40ft of 8 gauge wire. I bought 6ga wire for about $1 per foot last year, I'm sure 8 is in the 80-90 cent range. Figure $35 for wire, $4-5 for connectors and/or splices, plus time to install.....For about $50-60 you could get a decent battery and box.

The MSRP on my 4 spinning reels, combined, is $5 less than the MSRP of my worm/plasics rod. Wouldn't do anything different if I had to do it again. At any rate, buy what you like, like what you buy. There is no set requirement that say's the rod must be better. As long as it works for you, that's all that matters.

You can land a fish with a broken rod, you can land a fish with a broken reel, but you can't land a fish with broken line. ;D

Thanks, For some reason, I thought that when I made my other order there, I had trouble when I backed out. Must have been another site I was thinking of.

Well, my bargain hunting for baits has begun. I stopped at the local bait store to see if they had trailer keepers, and got a marked down clear Zara spook instead. Went to F-F to get a shelf to finish a bedroom, and they had regular glass shad raps on clearance. Not a big markdown, but $5 for an 07 beats BPS's $6.69. So I guess I'll be trying GSR's this year.

Seeing as I'm buying lures and other tackle, I'll just put this in the tackle forum. I'm adding things to the cart, but when it goes to the cart page, I can either go to the last item, or the home page. Is there anyway I can go back to the list of bait's I was just looking at??? It's kind of a PITA to keep going back in from the home page. TIA.

http://www.reedssports.com/Product/product.taf?_function=detail&_ID=12654 http://www.reedssports.com/Product/product.taf?_function=detail&_ID=7869 http://www.reedssports.com/Product/product.taf?_function=detail&_ID=12553 If I were to buy a pair for the boat, it would be the first ones listed. If I actually were to go hard water fishing, I would get the second pair listed.

;D Yeah, it's pretty complicated, but very scientific. Not only does it give me something to do while the lakes are frozen, it allows me to evenly divide up bulk spools so I can get the most from a bulk spool if needed. Seeing as there is no standard in spool lengths, you could end up with a short piece of unused line if you just guess how much your putting on.

I roughly covered this in another thread, but I'll go into more detail for you. Things you will need/want: $10 clip on line counter. Spool of cheap mono. Spool of braid you will be using. If desired, 2 empty line spools are real handy. Also, a line spooling station is real handy too. 1) Tape braided line to your reel spool. With the line counter, put on desired amount of braid. I usually go with a normal spooling worth of mono, 120ish yards, so I can turn it around when the "used side" has a lot of wear on it. Braid, over time, will wear and sometimes discolor just from being casted, and being out in the sun and water. 2) Tie on same size (DIAMETER) mono for best results, but other size mono will work. I use 12lb XT mono, becouse I have a spool of it, and don't like the "new" line. It is now backing line. Fill the spool to the proper amount over all. As you fill the spool with mono, measure the amount of mono you put on and remember that amount for the future. 3) Strip the line back off the spool onto an empty or any spool. 4) Transfer the line onto yet another spool, so the mono is on the outside. 5) Spool the reel and go fishing. The backing should last a few years, but it's a good idea to make note of the backing length for other same size spools, and also, so you don't have to go through the line transfer process again. You can use any amounts you see fit. You can put on 75 yards or even 50 yards of braid, and the rest backing. Using the shorter lengths of line does not afford you the opportunity to switch the braid end for end, but it does allow for much less line used at one time. Becareful not to put on too little of braid though, you don't want it to all come off the spool, and be left with just backing, when you cast. I'm going to give the shorter length a try, on one reel, becouse the new braid I'm going to try, is much more expensive than the braids I've used in the past. For casting, I put the full 120ish yards on, but my vertical jigging rod for 'Eye's, I split a small box between 2 spools becouse I usually don't have more than about 40-60 ft out at a time.

Yeah, I guess the frame size is not set in stone, is it???? I didn't even look closely at the new Steez to see the major change on it was the smaller V spool.

The All star ASR 805 and ASR 815 would be 2 I would look at. BPS's RC series XPS rods..maybe the RCL702WD. Falcon lowrider XG LFC 5 167 or LFC 5 1610. Shimano Compre CPC 70MB or CPC X66MB. BPS's is having a big sale on Johnny Morris Elite. Team All star's would be another one. As mentioned, the TD-S series would work too.

Going off your list, I'll say Curado, and Premier. Curado...becouse it's cheaper than the Core. Premier...becouse it's the lightest one.

Never used countdowns to target Bass before. Anybody out there use them for Bass??? I have a blast using the 01's for panfish, and have used the 07's for shallow 'Eye's, but that's about it.

I have been planning for a while to get some larger crankbaits when the spring sales start. Maybe I should get a few less, and get a couple glass Rapala's too. I wished the larger #07's were on sale too.

Magforce-V is for V spools, Magforce-Z is for U spools. By design, the Z brake is a little better. It all depends on if want the smaller framed reel that comes with the more compact V spool, or if you want the larger reels that have the U spool. In "theory", they are the same braking system, but the Z works a little better. Smaller framed reels are the Pixy, Alphas 103 and type F, Sol, ect... Larger framed reels are the Fuego, Zillion, Steez, Alphas 150, ect....

They are there, under "hard baits"..."minnow". 5/16oz $4, 1/2oz $6.19

Are the glass lures really any good??? I see other types of Rapala glass lures on clearance all the time. I also see taildancers on clearance/sale a lot too. If you go to a Walleye forum and start a thread on worst products, the taildancers are ALWAY'S brought up. I am looking for a reason to order from BSP too. I want to get some of those clip on worm retainer, cork screw looking things, and BPS is the only place I have seen them.