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FrankN209

Should this have happened?

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I have a Powell Max3D 6'10" Medium Mod-Fast rod. And today when I was fishing, I hooked a nice 4lb bass. I was on the bank with a slight edge, about 2-3'. I lifted the bass up and my rod shattered in between the first and second eyelet closest to the reel. Should this have happened? I picked up the rod about 6" past the reel.

 

20161002_092918.jpg

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You can contact the maker with the pic and see what they say. Swinging fish and high sticking are often considered misuse. If you must lift with the Rod keep it parallel to the ground 

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Personally I never try to lift a fish with the rod when fishing from shore.  In a boat I will get the fish moving towards the boat and swing it up and out of the water with the momentum.  Even in a boat I prefer to lift the fish by hand.  I am not a professional angler with an unlimited supply of free rods at my disposal.

EDIT:  As Mike says, check with Powell.  Never know.  Falcon sent me a $200 rod for $80 when it was totally my fault the rod broke, and I told them exactly what had happened.  Fenwick offered a 45% discount off any of their rods when I missed an eye threading the line, and wore a groove in the finish after about 15 minutes of casting with mono.  I had told them exactly what happened.  Honesty is always the best policy....in my book.

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I took it back to my local tackle shop and they replaced it. He told me it shouldn't have broke the way I picked up the fish. So I'm happy about that. I ended up going with an Okuma EVX. 

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13 minutes ago, FrankN209 said:

I took it back to my local tackle shop and they replaced it. He told me it shouldn't have broke the way I picked up the fish. So I'm happy about that. I ended up going with an Okuma EVX. 

good choice , i think you'll be happier with the Okuma rod , i myself don't like powell rods  B)

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I never lift fish over 2lbs, I know many guys do though. No sense risking it IMO. Depending on the angle of force when you were lifting it the rod might not be designed to handle it. Rods are designed to fight fish and I see a lot of guys in videos lift them with the rod almost vertical, which can snap tips off. However, where your rod broke seems very strange. 

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9 minutes ago, Big Bait Fishing said:

good choice , i think you'll be happier with the Okuma rod , i myself don't like powell rods  B)

 With you Big Bait on Powell rods--have several and think they are a good rod--just their QC is terrible--last 2 Powell rods I bought from Tackle Warehouse the eyes were not even close to be straight down the rod--the person must have been drunk to do a job like this or just did not care at all--Tackle Warehouse took them back ad replaced them--these two were also not straight--returned these again and the next two that came 1 was pretty good and the other was not totally straight but I decided to live with it with the thought that I am done with Powell rods--they have a great blank but their QC  leaves a whole lot to be desired--got tired of returning rods--just gave up-will not buy any more Powells

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That much linear separation is odd.  I've seen it when blanks were crushed or compressed.  I'm not implying that's the case, it's just an observation.  It will be interesting to see how the manufacture responds. I hope it works out for you.

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Just tell your buddies that you crushed your rod landing a 13 lber :P

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It is funny, one of my favorite rods that I own is a Powell Max 683 which is the most versatile rod I have ever owned and that is exactly what Tackle Tour said about the rod before I purchased it.

I own two of their fly rods from back in the nineties, and they had a great reputation for quality fly rods back then. It seems to me, all or the trouble I have seen has been in the Powel Max3Ds. Maybe they need to go back to the original Powell Max series. I have seen too many of their new ones split or break between the handle and the first guide. Too bad, I would love to get another 683 in the original Max series, but do not trust it in the 3D series.

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I don't know about Powell's warranty but there are 2 things to consider. The first is that it looks as if the graphite and resin didn't bond well and separated under stress. The second thing I wonder about is if this happens if you don't dead lift the fish? I have mentioned this in the past, I actually got to talk to a rod designer for St. Croix, I was informed that even with proper technique, boat flipping fish is considered user error as the rods are not made to handle that type of flex and stress. Once the tip bends past 90 degrees the rod can break, maybe it won't break on the first fish or maybe the next 30 but eventually it will break, all it takes is an extra inch of flex 1 time. When you watch a pro boat flip a fish, they normally get the fish moving and use the momentum to swing the fish in and then quickly take the pressure off the rod, and very few of them will boat flip a 4lber unless it won't help in a culling situation. The bad part is that even though it is done, it is considered wrong and abusing the rod, it is why I wish B.A.S.S would follow the FLW and allow the use of nets, the new rubberized nets are better for the fish and the angler not to mention the rod, deadlifting a 4lb bass even a small distance is asking for trouble, but because the graphite seems to have separated you may get a new one but it is at least partially your fault, get a net or lip the fish, especially if it is over a pound.

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I had a Kistler magnesium break that looked just like that.  A trolling motor support bounced up and came down on it.  Not saying that is what happened but I've seen breaks like that.  Mine was close to the tip.

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My Kistler Drop SHot Special rod broke like that, maybe around a foot from the top.

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20 hours ago, new2BC4bass said:

EDIT:  As Mike says, check with Powell.  Never know.  Falcon sent me a $200 rod for $80 when it was totally my fault the rod broke, and I told them exactly what had happened.  Fenwick offered a 45% discount off any of their rods when I missed an eye threading the line, and wore a groove in the finish after about 15 minutes of casting with mono.  I had told them exactly what happened.  Honesty is always the best policy....in my book.

I have similar experiences with St. Croix and Temple Forks.

Both know how to treat a customer.

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I once had rod break look like that. I'd stepped on it prior to the break.

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better to either a keep the rod parallel or drag the fish up the bank,

that definitely don't look right though, i could see a medium power rod breaking on a 4.5 or 5 lb bass if you aren't careful or maybe even if you are.

good luck with the new rod, i myself am looking for a new rod (under 60 bucks preferably) after me and a buddy made contact when he came back while i was swinging forward and the insert on my tip guide broke, eventually going to have some sort of groves worn in it and need replacing. thinking daiwa aird x mh.

 

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On 10/2/2016 at 0:44 PM, FrankN209 said:

I have a Powell Max3D 6'10" Medium Mod-Fast rod. And today when I was fishing, I hooked a nice 4lb bass. I was on the bank with a slight edge, about 2-3'. I lifted the bass up and my rod shattered in between the first and second eyelet closest to the reel. Should this have happened? I picked up the rod about 6" past the reel.

 

20161002_092918.jpg

Wow,I have never had a rod break like that,especially on a relatively small fish like a largemouth bass.Goes to show you that a expensive rod isn't necessary better than a rod under $60.

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47 minutes ago, soflabasser said:

Wow,I have never had a rod break like that,especially on a relatively small fish like a largemouth bass.Goes to show you that a expensive rod isn't necessary better than a rod under $60.

The durability of a rod goes down as the price goes up, not the other way around.

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51 minutes ago, Jrob78 said:

The durability of a rod goes down as the price goes up, not the other way around.

 

My #1 fishing rod is over 20 years old,has caught me many bass over 8lbs,and cost me less than $60 when I bought it way back then.I also use this rod for inshore fishing and it handles large,powerful saltwater fish very well.The exact model of my rod is still available for less than $60.

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Another thing to remember is if the manufacturer of the rod requires you to register it, make sure,you do so. Helps to expedite any warranty work.  

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3 hours ago, soflabasser said:

 

My #1 fishing rod is over 20 years old,has caught me many bass over 8lbs,and cost me less than $60 when I bought it way back then.I also use this rod for inshore fishing and it handles large,powerful saltwater fish very well.The exact model of my rod is still available for less than $60.

I don't doubt your experience but the idea of what is "better" is subjective.  What I'm saying is when higher grades of graphite are used to make rods more sensitive and lighter, they become more easily broken.  This type of rod is the most expensive on the market. 

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15 hours ago, Jrob78 said:

I don't doubt your experience but the idea of what is "better" is subjective.  What I'm saying is when higher grades of graphite are used to make rods more sensitive and lighter, they become more easily broken.  This type of rod is the most expensive on the market. 

I agree with you that a person's choice in fishing rod selection is subjective.I personally wouldn't waste a single penny on a rod that can't take a beating for several years,if not decades of hard fishing. I like fishing rods that can take a beating, that are strong, and that are sensitive enough for me to detect bites.

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Lifting with a rod anywhere other than the handle is a bad recipe. It changes the forces on the blank and is most likely at least partially at fault for this break. Also, just lifting a 4 pound bass is generally not a good idea either. Both of these reasons are most likely why your rod broke. Something also could have been done to weaken the blank there previously and maxing out your rod the way you did would account for why it broke this time. 

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On ‎10‎/‎4‎/‎2016 at 0:13 AM, soflabasser said:

I agree with you that a person's choice in fishing rod selection is subjective.I personally wouldn't waste a single penny on a rod that can't take a beating for several years,if not decades of hard fishing. I like fishing rods that can take a beating, that are strong, and that are sensitive enough for me to detect bites.

If a rod is so strong that it can take a "beating", you would not be a person who throws a rod that weighs 4oz and can detect if a fish farts near your bait. In all seriousness, I've had no problems landing fish with rods that are light weight and I've had my high end rods for years, and the rods I've purchased over the last 5 years are going strong. I've never broken a high end rod from fishing, only through abuse and I'll bet that rod you use now wouldn't work with light line, and you would probably gut hook every fish you would catch on a Senko because even my high end rods from 20 years ago can't come close to the sensitivity of my newer rods that were 1/3 the price. I'm not doubting your claims but the rods today are fine, they just don't like being stepped on or closed in a car door and if you believe you have a strong rod that can take abuse and is as sensititive as a modern rod, well I have a bridge in Brooklyn I'd like to sell you.

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