What do you guys use for your jig and/or Texas rig outfits, not counting braid?

 

I've always used mono until recently when I switched to copoly. I will use straight braid if I'm punching, but that's it.

 

I want something that has low-stretch (good sensitivity) and is as invisible as possible in the water. 

 

Would I be better off going to fluoro? Is fluoro really more sensitive than colpoly? If so, what brands for you recommend? I've tried Sniper once (not bottom bouncing) and it seemed fine enough. I've heard some good things about Berkley Trilene 100% Fluoro. 

 

I don't have a ton of experience with fluoro, so any advice is welcomed. 

 

Why no braid? Braid is the most sensitive, and has basically 0 stretch (comparing the stretches from mono/fluoro/copoly to braid is like comparing speed of race cars to fighter jets. Completely different leagues).

Fluorocarbon is the most invisible in the water, but it does stretch more than mono or co-polymer (it stretches more like a rubber band, that is it returns to shape and takes a lot more force to damage it from stretching than mono, but it DOES stretch more). Even though it stretches more, it is still more sensitive than mono. Mono < Fluoro ~= Copolymer in terms of sensitivity. 

The most sensitive set-up you'll get is a braid to a leader. 

I use fluorocarbon for those techniques 100% of the time. I feel like it gives you the best connection to your bait because it sinks. Braid and mono will put a big bow in your line when you're fishing deeper water. Fluoro also has great sensitivity. Braid does too as long as your line is tight, you lose that on slack line which you generally have a lot of fishing bottom baits. 

 

My favorite fluoros are Sunline Sniper and Seaguar Tatsu. Bass Pro has Trilene 100% on sale for $10.99 right now, I picked up 3 spools yesterday to try out. 

17 minutes ago, hwright38 said:

Fluorocarbon is the most invisible in the water, but it does stretch more than mono or co-polymer (it stretches more like a rubber band, that is it returns to shape and takes a lot more force to damage it from stretching than mono, but it DOES stretch more). Even though it stretches more, it is still more sensitive than mono. Mono < Fluoro ~= Copolymer in terms of sensitivity. 

The most sensitive set-up you'll get is a braid to a leader. 

I think you’ve got this backwards. Fluorocarbon doesn’t return to it’s shape after being stretched, mono does.

15 pound Big Game. 

I think sniper is very good and reasonably priced.  Tatsu is softer/more manageable but I don’t think it holds up to abuse as well as sniper and cost twice as much.  I have heard good things about abrazx and invizx but have never tried them.

12 minutes ago, LonnieP said:

I think you’ve got this backwards. Fluorocarbon doesn’t return to it’s shape after being stretched, mono does.

After being stretched to failure (not necessarily breaking, just when the line is no longer reliable), fluoro doesn't return to shape, but it does rubber band before that point. 

1 hour ago, Jrob78 said:

I use fluorocarbon for those techniques 100% of the time. I feel like it gives you the best connection to your bait because it sinks. Braid and mono will put a big bow in your line when you're fishing deeper water. Fluoro also has great sensitivity. Braid does too as long as your line is tight, you lose that on slack line which you generally have a lot of fishing bottom baits. 

 

My favorite fluoros are Sunline Sniper and Seaguar Tatsu. Bass Pro has Trilene 100% on sale for $10.99 right now, I picked up 3 spools yesterday to try out. 

Ditto 

Ditto

Ditto

 

I use Sniper up to and including 16# for everything except 2 presentations. 

 

20# Shooter for bottom and weightless plastic in fairly heavy cover areas. 

 

In my opinion, Other than Tatsu the entire Sunline product line is superior to anything on the market. 

 

 

 

 

Mike

12-15lb big game or 50lb braid for me

Been using sniper for years and really like it.

Depending on cover I use 14 lb up to 20 lb .

Fluorocarbon line has 1 advantage over monofilament or copolymer lines, less coeffiecent of drag going through the water gives you slightly better feel contact with underwater lures like Jigs and bullet weight T-T rigs everything being equal.

The downside is unreliable knot strength when using FC under 14 lb test for bass fishing in cover. Like mono or Copoly lines you should change stressed FC line and cost can be a factor.

I use FC line during day time and mono at night. The reason is I can go up to 15-20lb mono at night and use 10-12 FC during day light in clear water with sparse cover for the slight advantage in strike detection but hold my breath the knot doesn't fail. Retie often and check for any abrasion using either type of line.

Tom

2 hours ago, hwright38 said:

 but it does stretch more than mono or co-polymer (it stretches more like a rubber band, that is it returns to shape and takes a lot more force to damage it from stretching than mono, 

The opposite of this

I'm a fan of p-line cxx, Berkley big game, hi-seas grand slam, sunline assassin, and seaguar red label

Tatsu or InvisX

Trilene Big Game is what I use on all baitcasting reels, and for worm/jig fishing

BRAID

Tatsu

 

My favorite line for t rigs is McCoy 15lb copolymer. Super limp, great casting and a great price.

Best bang for buck and still not much in compromise whatsoever...

Seaguar Red

 

but if you wanna go fancier...

Sunline Super FC Sniper

 

and if you're ballin' outta control...

Tatsu

 

rip wallet.

Trilene Big Game 15 lb. or BPS Excel 14 lb.

 

Tom

Sunline Sniper 14-16# has been great for me last several years. In past used Red Label(to much memory) then InvizX(started having several breakoffs in heavy cover). I use cheap mono for backing and then spool 100yds of Sunline on top to keep cost down that way its around $11 a reel

22 hours ago, LionHeart said:

The opposite of this

Fluoro stretches the most out of all the lines. 

13 minutes ago, hwright38 said:

Fluoro stretches the most out of all the lines. 

Mono and flouro generally stretch about the same in fact.  It certainly doesn't return to its original length after being stretched.  It is also damaged more from being stretched than mono. 

Thanks for all the replies. I knew I'd see a lot of braid to fluoro mentions. And Tatsu.

 

I've honestly never done the braid to fluoro only because that extra knot worries me. I suppose I could give it a try. And I've been wanting to try Tatsu, but don't wanna get spoiled because I won't be able to afford it on a regular basis since I cut and tie a lot. 

 

 

1 minute ago, LionHeart said:

Mono and flouro generally stretch about the same in fact.  It certainly doesn't return to its original length after being stretched.  It is also damaged more from being stretched than mono. 

Stretched to it's failure point, yes, I agree with everything you've said. 

 

 

2 minutes ago, NorthernBasser said:

Thanks for all the replies. I knew I'd see a lot of braid to fluoro mentions. And Tatsu.

 

I've honestly never done the braid to fluoro only because that extra knot worries me. I suppose I could give it a try. And I've been wanting to try Tatsu, but don't wanna get spoiled because I won't be able to afford it on a regular basis since I cut and tie a lot. 

 

 

Blood knot is your friend. Try and match the diameters of your line (so if you're braid is .30mm, try and get as close to that as you can with the fluoro/mono/copoly leader), it makes the blood knot super easy.