Spinnerbait making: An open discussion.

[Munkin]

As a way not to continually hijack the other spinnerbait in the Fishing Tackle I thought to open a new topic in the Tacklemaking Forum. Hopefully everyone can respond to lend years' worth of experience to Bass Resource members on the design and functionality of spinnerbaits.

 

So, a little background on me and my spinnerbait knowledge. I started fishing spinnerbaits at age 12 in 1987 after watching Jimmy Houston catching all those big bass on them. The only bait for me at the time was a SK Chart/Blue, double diamond colorado blade bait. After throwing them religiously for 2 years I caught exactly zero fish on it. Fast forward to 1998 when I moved backed to Maryland while in the Army I started seriously fishing for bass again and making baits. Now I have learned a lot of the intricacies of spinnerbaits what I make is light years ahead of where I started.

 

 

Some of the things I have learned along the way:

 

Lighter wire seems to work better for double willow baits.

Heavier wire is what I use on night, large colorado baits as tuning a spinnerbait in the dark is a pain.

Spacing is very important and is not a one size fits all. 

Ballbearing swivels are a must as they spin easier.

Throw blade combinations that are not readily available on store baits.

Clearer the water the more natural the color should be.

Silver on sunny days and gold on cloudy has not been the case in my experience. Blade color preference is more dependent on the body of water and forage.

 

Allen

 

[LrgmouthShad]

Some things I’ve found, in no particular order:

- A shorter distance from line tie to head hangs less.

- A hook that is too large pulls the spinnerbait down; I don’t like this.

- While other spacing combinations work, my “go to” for two blades is to space out the two blades so that when you let the two blades hang vertically, the end of the front blade just barely does not overlap the second. 
- Using flatter blades can be very effective at times since they turn in a wider arc and start quicker. The wider arc creates an illusion that the spinnerbait is larger.

- Compact spinnerbaits work better in the “extremes” of the year. This is heat of the summer and dead of winter.

- I also have less misses on compact spinnerbaits. I think this is because on a bait with a long arm, the attracting blades are farther away from the hook. 
- A bait with a wide head will actually wobble a little on the retrieve. Think Zorro.
 

I agree that ball bearing swivels are a must and that you should use look for blade combinations not on store-bought baits. When you find something that is a little different that works, you will know it. 

 

9 hours ago, Munkin said:

Silver on sunny days and gold on cloudy has not been the case in my experience. Blade color preference is more dependent on the body of water and forage.

Lastly, I think we already had this discussion once but I usually use silver blades in clear water and gold/copper in murky/muddy. There are exceptions to the rule. Trophy Bass Co Ozark Flash spinnerbait is a unicorn and a good one, at that. The blades are half and half - white and hammered gold. That spinnerbait can get some bites in clear or dirty water. 

[Bdnoble84]

I’m not as seasoned as some of you in the world of spinnerbait making. That being said spinnerbaits are probably my favorite lure of all time. For me it all started with the safett pin spinner, an 1/8 oz jig head and a twister tail i found hanging at my grandpa and grandmas cabin in wisconsin. They day i tied it on, it was amazing, particularly for a 12 year old kid catching northern, crappie and bass. On top of that my grandpa told me his 2 biggest smallies came on a spinnerbait. It was rubber skirted with i beleive a single colorado. Unfortunately, i proceded to have a nice 5-6lb northern bite it off. 
when i was in 8th grade a family friend who had a cabin next to ours told me he made his own. That was when i got the itch to make my own. When i was 19/20 a 3/16 oz strike king with the fire tiger blade i discovered could be burned through a riffle repeatedly until a big smallie or northern would get ticked off and crush it.
20 years later i bought a poisontail mold and modified it to take the wire. I finally found a spinnerbait that i could make fish the way i wanted in current. What i have found is the rounder head with a lower center of gravity keels better when burning in current. 
spinnerbaits to me are a platform for a miriad of possibilities.

Changing a variable changes the function of the lure. A 3/4 oz bait with a number 6 willow can be fished off bottom effectivly in 2 feet of water. Shorten the wire to a short arm bait and the vibration becomes akin to a blade bait. Lengthen it and it moves smoothly through the water.

A 1/4 oz bait with duel #3.5 willows is a compact option that will run strait at highspeed in current. Uping the blade size allows you to sliw down with the same lift.

 

as i said spinnerbaits offer a miriad of possibilities. They also trigger some extremely viscious strikes and play on predatory instinct. Thats why i love them.

[king fisher]

I have had good success on big bass, bulging just under the surface, a Single Colorado blade black skirt, short arm spinnerbait, and I don't fish at night.  Same bait slowly crawled on the bottom catches big ones two.  I know a longer arm bait has more vibration, but an old short arm scorpion doesn't want to role over when waking the bait, and has caught me big bass for years.

 

I like full Lumaflex skirts with no trailer.  Trailer doesn't hurt, but not using one is my one and only chance to really make the Monkey mad.

 

I like to bend the wire at the head of the spinnerbait up causing the body of the bait to run more horizontal in the water.

 

Blades that are half one color and half another, work well, when I can't decide what color I like

 

One gold one silver blade works well.

 

Colored blades work well on cloudy days, and dirty water.  Colored blades work well on sunny days and clear water.

 

Pink and chartreuse blades are not just for smallmouth.

 

Mag Willow blades also called Oklahoma blades are very versatile.

 

A bullet weight placed ahead of a spinnerbait is an easy way to get the bait deeper, taking the rubber core out of a rubber core sinker, and crimping the sinker to the hook is also a good way to get a spinnerbait deeper.

 

Contrasting colored skirts work well.  Chart black, White black, orange black, Chartreuse blue,  and two of my oddball favorites purple chartreuse  pink black. 

 

All white is boring but works in any conditions.

 

If a certain color of jig, soft plastic, or crankbait is working, that is the color of spinnerbait I will try first.

 

Big spinnerbaits with big blades slow rolled deep get big bites.

 

Stanley makes the best willow blades, Hildebrandt make the best Colorado blades, Fishermen's Shack has the best selection of Magnum Willow blades.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

I'm not convinced thin wire is better, but I do fish both thick and thin.

 

I prefer closed loop, but R bend is easier to keep tuned.

 

I don't care about the color of the head, if I'm fishing a spinnerbait correctly the paint is chipped off after a day anyway.

 

Inline spinners will kill a skunk, and may catch a PB. 

[A-Jay]

Plenty of excellent nuggets already in this one.

I'm throwing at smallies most of the time.

Burning a compact bait just under the surface is one of my favorite ways to do it.

This is a mod as I'm not building these baits.

A while a go I started adding weight to the hook shank.

By simply spinning on length of wire solder onto the baits hook shank, centered & balanced weight can be effectively added to any bait.  How much weight will depend on the length, type & size (gauge) wire solder selected.  This can easily be done by hand and a drop of Super glue at each end will help keep it there.  Any spinnerbait is a candidate if you want to add weight to, not for just burning, as it’s quite applicable for deep water applications as well. Longer casts is a bonus benefit which in the longer run I can cover more water and stay 'off' the fish' more.

 

 

A-Jay

[Munkin]

On 3/20/2024 at 8:36 AM, LrgmouthShad said:

Some things I’ve found, in no particular order:

- Using flatter blades can be very effective at times since they turn in a wider arc and start quicker. The wider arc creates an illusion that the spinnerbait is larger.

- Compact spinnerbaits work better in the “extremes” of the year. This is heat of the summer and dead of winter.

- I also have less misses on compact spinnerbaits. I think this is because on a bait with a long arm, the attracting blades are farther away from the hook. 

 

Compact baits do not roll as easy in current which is why I like them. My favorite bait overall is a 1/2oz hidden weight poured on a 1/4oz frame with 3.5 and 4 willows.

 

Allen

[Rrd]

I would some thoughts on clevis size and swivel size?  Does it make a difference?  Or not as long as blade and wire fit?  I’m a novice and only making 3/8 and 1/2 oz size.  
 

also what size hook do most use?

[Munkin]

On 4/5/2024 at 9:10 PM, Rrd said:

I would some thoughts on clevis size and swivel size?  Does it make a difference?  Or not as long as blade and wire fit?  I’m a novice and only making 3/8 and 1/2 oz size.  
 

also what size hook do most use?

 

Clevis size 2 for blades 3.5 and smaller, size 3 for anything bigger. The other consideration is your wire diameter as the holes in a size 2 clevis maybe too small. Swivel sizing is the same as well.

 

Allen

 

 

[ButchA]

I too have been making lures (got started as a teenager back in the 70's), and made everything from Mepps Aglia (clones) to jighead spinners to buzzbaits and spinnerbaits.  So much fun, so much creativity!

 

I learned, rather quickly, that a little goes a long way, with regards to beads and a particular willow leaf blade (or two).

[1984isNOW]

@Munkin thank you for starting this thread, @evrybodywhocontributedsofar thank you for sharing, supremely helpful for a guy teaching himself how to fish and now venturing into some very makeshift bait making.

 

On 3/19/2024 at 11:36 PM, Munkin said:

Spacing is very important and is not a one size fits all.

Please elaborate

 

On 3/20/2024 at 8:36 AM, LrgmouthShad said:

Using flatter blades can be very effective at times since they turn in a wider arc and start quicker.

How flat can I go?

 

On 3/20/2024 at 7:57 PM, Bdnoble84 said:

Shorten the wire to a short arm bait and the vibration becomes akin to a blade bait. Lengthen it and it moves smoothly

Total wire length orbjust the top arm? Like have a total of 4.5 inches like 2 inches from head vs 5.5 inches with 2ninches from head, or 5.5 inches 3.5 inches from head?

 

On 3/20/2024 at 8:31 PM, king fisher said:

Colored blades work well

Any particular color?

 

On 3/20/2024 at 8:31 PM, king fisher said:

crimping the sinker to the hook is also a good way to get a spinnerbait deeper.

Thank you!

 

On 3/20/2024 at 8:31 PM, king fisher said:

prefer closed loop

Why?

 

On 3/20/2024 at 8:56 PM, A-Jay said:

spinning on length of wire

I'm twisting my own spinnerbait bodies with bullet weights and steel wire, I think I'll twist some extra wire down the hook shank and see what happens, thanks!

 

My 2 cents from my short experience in all this, I like to have a beefier skirt. 3-4 tabs make a chunkier profile and add a little drag to the body, helping it to not tilt so steep with bigger blades.

[LrgmouthShad]

2 minutes ago, 1984isNOW said:

How flat can I go?

I have never flattened a blade myself if that is what you mean. Blades are sold in varying degrees of curvature. As I recall, Picasso willow blades are “shallow cup.” Flatter than most. I remember really liking them and I honestly should buy some at some point. Use a #5 or larger Hildebrandt blade and you again have a shallow cup. The smaller ones have more curvature to them. The change from a 4.5 to a 5 is significant *hint hint*. I only mention these blades because I am familiar with them. 
 

Same goes for colorado and Indiana blades

[scaleface]

The deep cupped Colorado's  did not spin well for me as the leading blade.   

 

I might not be as proficient  a caster than most of you but I  almost always throw a 1/2 oz bait because its the size my spinnerbait rod handles best .  If I have trouble with placement then it makes no difference what the components are.

[Munkin]

Spacing is something you have to play with to see what works best for you. Blades too far forward will not run correctly and too close will hit each other. Generally, when you hold the bait by the line tie you don't want the front blade to be further up the wire than the head for double blades. Additionally, I don't like the loop where the swivel attaches the be past the hook.

 

Colored blades just work sometimes when they don't want the reflective ones. White and chartreuse are what I use the most which match they skirt.

 

Worth is the only company I know that makes the shallow cup blades. Not sure who sells them like Barlow's as they are hard to find.  

 

Allen

 

[Rrd]

Thanks again for starting this thread.. strictly a newbie and have made a few that run great but really having trouble with the Do-it bullet head spinnerbait.  Just can’t get the front blades to spin.  Here’s a few and none of these will spin.  Experimenting with size of blade too.  1/2oz on a super stainless frame.  First one I tried both 1 & 2 spacers and no go.  Second one went to a bigger blade and still won’t spin.  i don’t think they are overlapping and hitting as it never spins at all unless i burn it, also played with size of loop at the end but no change.  I know some advice above said blades need to be more even with head but I’ve got other store bought with blades above head and they spin fine.  Need some expert advice.

[Jeff Zurawski]

Have you tried changing the angles in the wire from the line tie to the head and line tie to swivel?  I'm no expert, but I think that might do something and is worth experimenting with. 

[LrgmouthShad]

It is difficult to see in your photo, but I do not like the blades to overlap. There are spinnerbaits that run fine like this, but you definitely do not want there to be too much overlap. The angle from

the head to your line tie is poor as shown. The spinnerbait will not run balanced like it should. Reference the below photos for what I like the angle to look like:

[Reel]

Ways to help the blade spin : Polish the wire where the blade spins -

                                               Do not use a bead in front of the clevis so that there is                                                             no pressure

                                               Use bigger blades

                                               Enlarge the holes in the clevis

[Bdnoble84]

19 hours ago, Rrd said:

Thanks again for starting this thread.. strictly a newbie and have made a few that run great but really having trouble with the Do-it bullet head spinnerbait.  Just can’t get the front blades to spin.  Here’s a few and none of these will spin.  Experimenting with size of blade too.  1/2oz on a super stainless frame.  First one I tried both 1 & 2 spacers and no go.  Second one went to a bigger blade and still won’t spin.  i don’t think they are overlapping and hitting as it never spins at all unless i burn it, also played with size of loop at the end but no change.  I know some advice above said blades need to be more even with head but I’ve got other store bought with blades above head and they spin fine.  Need some expert advice.

I always start with the clevis size. The style of head really doesnt matter. The clevis needs to freely rotate without binding. I alsodont like to fish a front bead because i have experience binding there as well.

[Munkin]

23 hours ago, Rrd said:

Thanks again for starting this thread.. strictly a newbie and have made a few that run great but really having trouble with the Do-it bullet head spinnerbait.  Just can’t get the front blades to spin.  Here’s a few and none of these will spin.  Experimenting with size of blade too.  1/2oz on a super stainless frame.  First one I tried both 1 & 2 spacers and no go.  Second one went to a bigger blade and still won’t spin.  i don’t think they are overlapping and hitting as it never spins at all unless i burn it, also played with size of loop at the end but no change.  I know some advice above said blades need to be more even with head but I’ve got other store bought with blades above head and they spin fine.  Need some expert advice.

 

I would start by increasing the angle from the head to the line tie. Look how low yours is compared to pictures of the other baits posted. What I think is happening is the drag created by that paddletail is too much for the bait to run correctly. Based on the picture that bait when reeled in will have; the blade arm rocking back and forth from blade just flapping, rear blade spinning inconsistently possibly being hit by the front blade? Bending the wire like the other baits posted here should fix the problem.

 

Allen

 

Allen

[Rrd]

Thanks gents, I’ll give it a try.  The rear blade spins fine.  Clevis is size 3, I actually tried a size 2 but wire is too big anyways.  Tried with and without bead in front no difference.  I only used a paddle tail to give some weight but had same issue with other versions using skirt.  

Another question regarding bending the wire, will it weaken the entry/exit point from the head?  Seems like pressure on the line tie from catching fish would straighten it back?  If that solution works would it be better to modify the mold to that angle?  I know first things first but…..

[Rrd]

So gave it a try, not sure why I didn’t notice it before but I guess I just assumed the mold would come at the right angle?  But bait as pictured ran perfectly.  I knew you folks would know.  
 

Not sure what everyone else uses mold wise but seems like having to bend every time would be inconsistent?

 

thanks again for the advice and this thread.

[Cgolf]

So I am 3 years in to buying frames and making my own spinnerbaits.

 

Before this I found that thin wire War Eagles out fished my old go to thick wire strike kings like 5 to 1. Then My father in law schooled my war eagle like 5 to 1 with a bait I made for him with a unique blade combo and thicker wire.

 

So for me the importance goes in this order. Unique blade combos and then wire thickness. Head color, I just buy the unpainted heads and don't see a need to paint them, and the fish seem to agree.

 

One thing I do a lot is fish them in 4-8 fow and when doing this I throw a lot of 1/4 ounce baits and will even go down to 1/8 ounce, 1/2 is the heaviest I have fished. Even in clear water I fish them slow with lots of pauses. That could be though because I fish a lot of reeds and I am convinced the bass feed down instead of up.

 

Blade color, seems like we need at least one nickel blade but I have had luck with a gold blade. I will be trying them more depending on the light conditions.

[Jigfishn10]

One of the craziest things that really work is putting the smaller blade on the swivel and the big blade on the spinnerbait arm. The big blade washes the smaller blade out and it just flutters and turns rather lazy. Looks like a dying baitfish...give it a whirl

[Donald Tyson]

I'm just joining in here...Is there a way to make inline spinners more weedless and still catch fish at the same rate?

[1984isNOW]

On 6/20/2024 at 8:42 PM, Donald Tyson said:

same rate?

Idk about same rate, but you can use any single hook you like, ewg/offset/straight, and use or not use a soft plastic