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Second Pass Lure?

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  • Super User

The other day I walked up the bank of a pond I frequent. Because I'm learning and gaining confidence with flukes, I fished junebug colored flukes the entire route going. I caught 9 with the fluke.

 

When I got to where I stopped, I sat down to rest and tried a few other things. I don't recall what now.

 

I decided to use a white roostertail for the return trip, covering the same shore that I'd previously covered with a fluke. I caught 3 using the roostertail.

 

Now... I decided to use a roostertail for 2 reasons, 1) I'm not confident with it yet as I've not used one much at all, 2) I thought the color change, and action change would be different enough that I'd entice bites from those that had declined the fluke.

 

So... is my judgement sound when choosing the second pass lure? Would it have been better to continue to use the same color fluke, perhaps with a different action? Or, should I use a fluke of a different color?

 

This situation is almost always the norm for my fishing, moving up a shoreline, then covering the same shoreline on the return trip. How can I maximize the return trip?

  • Super User

I can't tell you what lures to use in your area/conditions. But I always start a little fast for the days conditions then slow down. I would've started with the RoosterTail(Spinnerbait for me) then switched to the Super Fluke. 

My general rule of thumb is if I can't get them to chase a moving bait I try something slow and on the bottom.

 A jig or the ol' ball and chain with a fish Dr. or lizard. this time of year. A Senko or wacky/neko rig is never a bad idea either.

I generally fish whatever I feel like. On the up trip and back lol. Sometimes I will switch. If I do it’ll be a slower lure. Say a stick bait worked slow. I generally commit a trip to a bait though. Or try hard to. So I may just change presentation. Lately it’s been a swim jig. So I may swim aggressive the way down and slow it down on the way back. But generally a stick bait would be my switch. 

I usually don't do a second pass but if I do it's usually the same bait that worked before. Only time I really switch baits is when they stop biting or I'll change colors if they are nipping at the bait. other than that I stick with the one that brought me.

  • Super User

If you didn't catch something on the second pass with the Roostertail, do no make a third pass.  I think both lures were great choices.  Something bigger on the first pass, and a never get a skunk inline on the second.

  • Super User

I fish a pond that has an intake and a spillway which can create a small current. If the water is moving, I will go big on the first pass and then small on the second. For example, a swimbait and then a senko, a full size spinnerbait and then a ned rig, big crankbait and then a BFS lure. I will clean house on the second pass. I've done this time and time again. I might get 2 or 3 on the big stuff and then 8 or 9 on the small stuff.

I'll work an area twice.

 

Normally slower the second time with like a wacky worm.

 

Just me, far from an expert.

  • Super User

I have learned that it is best to leave sure fire spots for the slow baits first and fish the ??? water with moving baits first.

 

So the second pass would just be necessary if the first didn't work and I'd just use the other extreme probably.

 

If slow didn't work in a fishy area I might try a faster presentation or lure to make them react before leaving.

 

If making them react in a ??? part of the pond didn't work I *MIGHT* slow down there if I see evidence of bass while fishing through - but generally not.

  • Super User

On a small pond I like to work all parts of the column. Top, somewhere in the middle, and bottom

  • Super User

I'm similar to ranger jockey on this one.  I prefer moving baits so I'll start there to cover water and see what the fish are doing.  If they are chasing but not comitting or if they seem to be down in the column then I'll go with a texas rig or jig down in the column but still moving, though maybe a little slower.  If the fish are in a particular area and they stop hitting that, then I'll drop to a ned for some more cleanup (after a rest usually).  If I've done all of that and not had luck I'll throw something big and/or fast like a 6" magdraft to get a reaction.  At least show me that you're there type of flash.

  • Author
  • Super User

Interesting replies, thanks all.

 

I edited my post to add the catches on each of the lures I used. I somehow forgot to mention that. I got 9 on the fluke going up, and 3 on the roostertail coming back.

 

Would guess that if I'd stuck with a fluke, I'd either catch nothing or very few on the return trip.

When I hit a pond, I generally fish a bottom contact bait first...picking apart any visible cover.  On the way back around, I'll churn the water up with a trap...or topwater if it is evening.

  • Author
  • Super User

One of the details of this particular pond, is that I cannot walk around it. It's blocked on one end by a fence. I can walk up both sides. The lake I fish is similar, not that I can't walk around it, but it's a 5 mile round trip. So, I go up the bank and then back down.

As you continue learning, you will learn to read the conditions. That's where I start usually. I run the lake or pond in a kayak and usually make two round trips. Mostly shallow water. 

 

Windy - reaction moving lures

Calm - plastics, in line spinner, maybe a crabkbait 

Hot - deeper water, shade, cover

 

Sounds like you have learned what produces in your area. 12 catches is a good day on the water. 

Plus...I feel like pitching a bottom contact bait around first lets you fish without alerting the fish you are there 🥷.  After that...churn and burn!

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