webertime

http://www.uvm.edu/seagrant/sites/uvm.edu.seagrant/files/lcbp_report_bass_study_2013_reduced_size.pdf If this is the wrong forum please feel free to move it. But is is relevant to all anglers that fish waters where tournaments are held. Short and sweet. Researchers on Lake Champlain tagged thousands of Bass caught at various FLW tournaments out of Plattsburgh, NY and assessed their health/stress. Then tracked their movements (dispersal) once released. Some really interesting stuff in there about fish in the livewell on long runs, populations stock-piling after release and how Largemouths and Smallmouths move. Nobody has done this sort of research on a large lake before, it was interesting to see for sure. Some really useful information for Tournament guys as well as regular guys. Oh and the Nerds will LOVE the math and graphs.

Size is 3x10x4 I've read that the stock bearings are ABEC 3ish (Japan doesn't use the ABEC scale). The S-ARB ones (corosive resistant bearing) are slightly nicer.

I'm in, and going to catch it in front of Mainebass.

When remelting, it is advised to add a bit of new plastisol to keep the baits a little softer.

I get bored and mend-it a lot of things... some successes include: Cut the tail off of a hollow belly swimbait and mend-it to the tail end of a Sebile Magic Swimmer Soft. Moves like a drunk belly dancer (that's a good thing) Attach craws to Fat Ika bodies once the tentacles get shreaded. Rage Craws and Zoom craws work well. Yamamoto tentacles attached to the tip of a Pit Boss makes a sick spider grub.

Home Depot has Husky Brand (made by Plano) 3 packs for $3 in select stores. They are the 3700 size.

That's tough. The most expensive Frog Togs you can afford or look at a used set on some forums.

You guys realize they're made of Fukashima meltdown byproducts... I'd stop fishing them asap. The new Sculpin color is sweeeeeeeeeeet.

I have several of the T3B's. For flipping/pitching they are great since you can re-engage them just by pressing down on the hood. No need to hit the handle or deal with "Flipping Switches". I'd recommend the 7.1:1 as I find the 8:1 a bit strained under larger loads (4lb bass and 100lbs of weeds or a 5lb smallie with a 1.5oz carolina rig in 30 feet).

I've got that rod (and a 714 and 715). Awesome rods and if you can get it for$~150 DO IT!!!!

Grounds for "Warning Points" on that one! Veritas 7'11" with a BPS PQ 7.1: and 60lb Sunline Fx2. You can get all that right now for $150 total and it'll serve you very well for years.

3/8 90% of the time.

On the Curado 50 you pop out the hard plastic endcaps on the grips. Use a small screwdriver to remove the screw that is under the cap. Pull off grips. Get the bearings/bushings all sorted out and back on the shaft. Slide new grips on and replace the screws and caps. Citica E's knobs are riveted on so no way to swap those. Got to go the whole handle assembly route.

Cotton cordell wally diver is the last bait. Love those (not sure about that color).

Maybe sub the shad colors for black/chartreuse or an orange/red craw color. But this is a great suggestion.

Take it back.

My observation on the Snell knot... like mentioned above the hook "kick out" & knot protection are nice. But the effect it seems to have on fish is this. You know when you smack/smash/cut yourself and think, "what was that? Oh that's really going to suck..." for a few seconds then... OUCH!!!!! It seems the hook kicking out and into the thick/boney parts of the mouth/head does the same thing. Set hook... bass thinks "what the?" Gets cranked to the boat and about 5' from the boat starts fighting (the OUCH part). I have noticed that they don't generally immediately go berserk when hooked making it much easier to get them out of junk.

Gammy and KVD mustads were on clearance... .26 off

You always go out after fat girls and end up bringing home little boys...

16lb Sunline Sniper. I like the fact that it sinks, the baits glide on the drop and that alone gets a ton of hits. Braid and mono don't allow for the same glide.

Weber is my last name. In college I worked in ski/board/bike shops and literally everyone called me Weber. One day I was walking out of the shop onto the sales floor and my buddy yelled out to stop, another did an MC Hammer spoof "Stop... Webertime" the shop full of customers and staff giggled. Then I did that shuffle dance thing he did in his video and the whole building erupted in laughter. It stuck.

I think purely based on popularity you will hear more folks say Crankin' Stick. However the Sellus (IMO) is everybit it's equal IF the actions/power are what you are looking for. The Crankin' Stick has MANY more options in those departments, if you can't find one you like, then start throwing depth charges for Bass rather than cranking.

Piece of tape on the bottom of the reel seat.

7'6" mh or h rod with a fast taper. 7.something reel ratio 40-65lb braid These are pretty basic guidelines for what you are describing.

Maybe...