F14A-B

I prefer your bottom 2 patterns for a bluegill pattern. I use shad patterns w gizzard shad being my favorite for fall on Kentucky and Barkley as LMB are following and busting these baitballs up in the shallows. Between bluegill patterns and shad patterns that’s all you need in a swim jig with a proper trailer.. Flipping jigs or dragging a casting jig is a completely different series of colors.

I wouldn’t skimp out on hooks, for that matter, line either. I’ve purchased Gamakatsu on Amazon for cheap at times 5/0 straight shank. Otherwise I’m using Owner’s. My custom made jigs use Mustad Ultra point and they’re sharp and hold the point longer than gammys do. My otc jigs are Denny Brauer structure jigs w Owners. I have some DD cranks with a triple grip copy by BKK and they’re sticky sharp. Jerk baits run Gamakatsu & Owner. For plastics in sizes you mentioned it’s a mix of Gamakatsu and Owner. These brands are worth the coin. If you truly can’t swing the cost get the Eagleclaw and a file and sharpen them. They’re available at Walmart and most any bait shop in America.

What constitutes a modern Daiwa?

I rather enjoy this side of you bulldog.. 😆😁 I really like the size of the new Ryoga, it looks smaller in build to my eye, of course that’s based on just the video only.

The new version of the Yozuri square bill crank baits claimed magnetic cast assist. I was skeptical, so after 4 moderately hard strikes with a 16 oz hammer she cracked and I had a look see. In fact there is a steel ball and a tiny magnetic piece. At approximately 3 mil from the further most rear the magnet pulls the ball with pretty solid power. Yes, I sacrificed the ugliest one of the lot😁

My male German Shepherd. 125 pound. His name is Sabot. His favorite thing is going for rides and hanging his entire big head out the window 😂 The horse. I see her everyday, she got out and I called twice and ran her home, she ran right back thru the open gate. Too funny!

That reel is sexy for sure. What does L/E mean?

Hard to go wrong with a tube or smaller jig on river bass of any species.

Welcome to the forum young man..

They are billed to be tougher. (See what I did) anyway I have several Spro thin cranks that are solid. I drag them along broken chunk rock, sand, pea gravel type bottom comp. I haven’t broke one yet but naturally they show wear from the way I use them..

Dude is a freaking hammer.

@A-Jay Goodness Gracious guy.. half those fish I hadn’t seen. Have you considered becoming a professional guide up on Menderchuck? 😁😁

You could absolutely try YouTube for your model Garmin or contact Garmin directly for assistance. I’m guessing they have all you need.

You must learn your electronics. You need to find schools of baitfish on lakes, understanding the spawning patterns of the lakes and particularly the LMB. Have you fished Patoka? Monroe? Patoka is a much harder lake than Monroe, my takeaway from your OP is learn your electronics. Learn the seasonal patterns of LMB, learn water temps, baitfish types, crawfish, structures on the lakes. Invest in topographical maps. Work on learning your scope, it will help you immensely. Don’t give up. Gain the knowledge then put it to work..find local tournament groups and see what weights are winning on what lakes you fish. You can find this information on Facebook. (I read your OP & nothing else)

My speed read is missing 😆🤷

You should re-weigh that spool empty, I’d be shocked if that reel spool weighs only 7 grams. Nice! Very nice response. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

@WRB-2.0 That’s not necessarily true Tom, I’ve fished a 1 oz Yozuri deep diver from the rip rap of many a lake dam from shore, banging that bait all the way up and have caught many 3-5 pound fish. They absolutely destroy it. Funny, I’ve never lost a bait doing this, not by snags but wore down plastic lips..

You’re going to need to throw 160-190 feet, & before you think it’s not possible, think again. I do it all the time. Line, rod, & reel, all must accentuate one another. Next grab some 3/4-1oz deep divers. Long casts, & deep diving crank baits that are going to get down and bump the structures that are there (no matter the depth) That’s exactly what you want. Don’t even worry about snags or lip breakage just bump and grind and kill it for a second when you bump or crash into structure, don’t be afraid to speed crank it. If the water is very cold, perhaps use a suspending jerk bait. That’s a great way to catch them in colder temperatures (water temperatures) If the fish are relating to a rocky bottom, a deep diving suspending jerk bait with timely pauses can and do get bit. It’s not my jam but I do break them out at times and I do catch nice fish this way. You have to bomb cast to allow for the crank baits to dig down to depth and still have sufficient coverage of the structure type you’re fishing. You should also try a 3/4-1oz spinnerbait along the bottom. Squarebaits: Same basic principle, crashing & bumping structure only in 5 feet or less water.

Congratulations. That’s a healthy fall bass you caught.

@bulldog1935 that water ain’t no joke is it…

Not being a Kayak guy (always used a canoe or flat bottom) are those rather unsinkable?

I like that flask I’m seeing there..🇺🇸

I have a case like that, it’s not Pelican but it’s close to it, I actually bought it to carry my Fuji XT2 and a lens in it. Another item that’s worth the investment.

The Handles/knobs are worth the coin, albeit hard to get These are a little longer Carbon knob, again, looks are deceiving… Daiwa Zillion HD1000 on GLX 844c MBR..16 pound shooter FC.

@bishoptf I use Luckycraft myself, a few Yozuri and a few Spro. I’ve used the Pointer series for years.. that’s cool you found a $25 dollar bait.. Pop R’s are solid also. As far as weight goes the hooks are very light some guys I’ve read keep em stock & like them fine.