junyer357

I think i would look more at mounting it verticaly to the rear of the camper or on top depending on its height. Especially if you have a load leveling hitch for the camper.

To me its a touch cooler with sleeves and a short sleeve shirt. The arm holes provide an extra place to vent.

2 group 27s for the TM and a group 27 dual purpose for cranking/electronics. Noticed several tourny guys i know running 5 batteries. 3 for tm and 2 in parrellel for cranking n electronics.

I have 15 and 20# braid (power pro yellow slick 8) on my 2 pflueger supreme 2500s. Have used it for several years now with no problems. I never use a backing. Occasionally it will dig in a lil bit after a hars fight or a snagged lure, but nothing a long cast and reeling back with some tension wont fix. If you go this route i will also reccomend dedicated leader line as well. It works better than regular flouro to me.

Tried them and hated them. Took longer to change lures for me, especially if eye is set into bill. I just change all of my line tie split rings to an oval one. I can retie much faster and easier, even with flourocarbon.

I run 8# power pro braid with no problems on my crappie/panfish rods. I dont fish much ultra clear water either though.

I have been getting my spinnerbaits custom made, and began making my own this winter. One thing i have always done or had done is leave a few strands of skirt material full length from the tie or band. This works 2 fold, it acts like a trailer, and helps hide a trailer hook. Unless im throing into weeds or tight cover i always run a stinger hook.

I switched to actual leader material (seaguar blue label) and it has worked much better. I normally run a 3-5' leader.

+1 on spiining. My current setup is a dobyns champion 683sf with a pflueger supreme and 15# slick8. Have had no trouble with it getting fish from cover and 0 backlashes. One of my most used rods.

Cable steer is whre there is 2 steel wire cables going from foot pedal to TM head. Fortrex, maxxum, edge, and most tm you are probably familiar with. Electric is done by hand held remote or a foot pedal with sensors only in it to control head. Ultera and terrova. Ultrex is a hybrid as i understand it. It seems to have cable steer foot pedal going to a sensor controliing an electric head. The only ones with spot lock are the digital head units - ulterra, terrova, and ultrex.

I prefer the avid. I dont buy the micro eye koolaid. More problems than they are worth to me. Had them on a duckett and liked the rod except for the eyes. Fished at guntersville on a freezing day and was having to dunk rod to thaw eyes every few casts was the last straw. Gave it to my dad when i got home. I found i missed eyes on occasion threading rod and dad has too as well. I was not able to run a leader either, so i ran straight flouro. I have 2 standard avids (7'mh-f for jigs and 6'8m-xf for worms) and could not be happier with them. Both have full cork grips, which i prefer. Lightweight and sensitive, with plenty of backbone. Plus the standard avid is still lifetime warranty, only 15yr for avid x.

Yea i belive we are off on dog snot tight. For me it means pulling as hard as i can possibly pull on it for a few seconds, i still do it with braid. On my mono and flouro knots now i just pull steady on it, watching the knot. Once i see its snug and tight and the winds are pulled down like they should i stop. My worst kinks are from backlashes as well. Its not near the preoblem it once was since i upgraded reeels and better maintain them. Once the reel is set up i mainly backlash doing something stupid. Like throwing a shad rap upwind or hitting a dock or pylon.

Yea for $1100 you wont be getting spot lock unles you luck up on a used one. I have a 80# fortrex that is,around the $1100 mark. Absolutely love it. The lift assist and full variable speeds are wonderful. Only thing i would trade it for is an ultrex with spot lock and 2x the money. As far as the electronics, if you are comfortable with the hook series stick with it. I think you can connect the hook series together (but not totally positive you can) still and share waypoints as well.

Im sure it could damage it as well, but not as bad i would think. When you tighten the knot its only over a foot or two of line. With a fish its spread over the length of line out, not just knot and small bit of line I can say that it has worked better for me to stop doing that.

I use abrazx or invisx exclusivly for cranks now, and have for a few years. I prefer flouro for it. The abrasion resistance alone is worth it to me, since i love fishing rocks and structure,with a crank. I think the added diameter of 15# helps with abraision as well, but i have used 10 and 12, and down to 8# in winter just fine. Yes it can cause problems if you backlash and it kinks. It doesnt do well with hard bends like that. If you set the reel/rod up properly for the lure it minimizes this, same as with any other line. Yes it can be finicky on knots, i use the "shaw grigsby youtube video" knot and it works well for me. With any flouro knot, get it slobbery wet to lube it, and just cinch it snug and tight, dont tighten the dog snot out of it, it will damage the knot. After years of fishing mono with cranks it is instilled in me hard to check my line for any knicks on the last few feet regularly. If i feel anything, i cut and retie. Thats good practice an any line, especially in rocky areas or other things that can cut line. I will reccomend buying some kvd line conditioner and using it. Alot. I spray my line down as im spooling it. A few spritz about half spool, and a good dousing after i finish spooling and let sit overnite. Then i put a few spritz on it again each nite before i plan to go the next morning. This helps me keep memory down, as well as keep it supple and smooth. Get a small 200yd spool of a decent line like invisx or abrasx, and try it. Decide for yourself if you like it or not. I personally love it, my dad hated it and went back to mono. At the end of the day its all up to you alone. Like braid or mono, it has its own quirks, advantages, and disadvantages. Only you can decide if its right for you.

Every hook has advantages and disadvantages. There is no "one perfect hook style". Thats why there is so many diffrent style hooks. I personally like an offset for a regular 7" powerbait worm but for 10" or senkos, i switch to an ewg. On the fatter diameter worms the ewg to me is a better choice, since it has a wider gap allowing the worm body to move more exposing more hook on a bite. Straight shanks i mainly use pitching and punching and a few others on occasion. Only weedless hooks i use is for wacky senkos on an o-ring. Anything else the hook is either texposed. If im throwing into thick cover i bury the hook in the bait. If you are just trying to cut costs, buy only odd or even sizes of the style you want. There isnt much diffrence between a 2/0 and a 3/0 hook.

30# suffix 832 braid is the same diameter of 12# invisx flouro. So no size/casting advantage there, just another leader knot to fail, plus braid floats. Some topwater straight braid is perfect, but for walking type baits straight mono just works better, plus the little bit of stretch is normally better for treble lures. Braid is great line, but it has drawbacks too. It has very little resistance to abraision for one, and the lack of stretch can be a drawback as well as advantage for some presentations such as cranks and moving lures. Its not a cure all, otherwise its all anyone would use. I would use the invisx you mentioned for both the crankbaits and jerkbaits. The finess setup you mentioned sounds good though. Braid is much better on spinning tackle to avoid twisting and coiling.

Most of my knot failures come at the leader knot, not the hook knot. I use an improved alberto knot (but learning the fg knot now) to connect to braid, and the "shaw grigsby youtube" knot on all flouro hook knots One thing i learned helping me on my hook knots is not tightening the dog snot out of it like i would mono. Doing so stretches and weakens it. I pull it snug and tight but dont over do it,then just leave 1/8-1/4 inch tag ends. If the didnt see the first 3ft of leader the extra tag end wont matter either. I think most of my line to leader knot failres are partially from the same issue, as well as it getting beat on by line guides repeatedly. I only use 3-5ft of leader at a time so its not reaching my spool, nor do i have a lot of places for it to get a hard enough bend to matter except for the knots.

Yes. I have seaguar 10# invisx and 10# blue label leader the leader is noticeably stiffer and better for abrasion, but worse to break if it gets bent hard.

I like them. Its cheaper to me to keep a few diffrent skirts and seperate weights i can use with any skirt color. I get mine at siebert outdoors as well, and for punching or flipping definitly pay the extra lil bit to get wire tied.

X2 The first 2 are why i use a leader. #3 isnt as big a deal for me in the waters i normally fish. I do reccomend an actual leader material too, not regular flouro line. The dedicated leader jas been much better for me at abrasion resistance. I use the seaguar blue label and have it in 10, 15, and 20# test. Thicker, nastier, and rockier the cover the higher test i use.

Ok. Gotcha. Wasnt sure since you said you were just beginning last summer. In that case i prefer 12# abrasx for cranks 16-18# sniper (i prefer tatsu most but out of my budget) on the jigs 12-15# invisx for spinner/chatterbait, unless you throw a buzzbait then you id go with 14# suffix seige mono.

If it aint broke, why fix it?

One line for all? Id say 15# sunline sniper. It will hurt the cranks by a foot or two of depth, but give you enough abrasion resistance for the jigs. Its a huge comprimise to ask that much of one rod and line, but im guessing its your only rig currently.

I keep it simple. A small 6"×12" tray, small phillips/flathead reversable screwdiver, small crescent wrench, a small cheap paintbrush, and an old toothbrush. Tray is to hold parts in order of dissasemly without having to worry about springs and screws rolling around or getting lost. Screwdiver and wrench are for obvious reasons on takedown/assembly. The paintbrush is for applying fresh grease, i use shimano drag grease. Toothbrush is for scrubbing and cleaning grease and grime off.