junyer357

Actually ive had good luck with it repairing claws on paca craws. When i get a few that have lost claws i pile them up and take the claw off one and ment it to another. I do it alot in football season during commercials.

X2.

Shimano grease and boca bearing oil for me. Really like the applicator for the boca oil much bettter than the tubes with a rubber cap.

If its the gen 2 (pre touch screen) you will need an lss module and transducer do have imaging. 1 the built in sonar will only work for traditional sonar 2&3 the lss module and transducer is a single transducer that handles side and down imaging and can do both simultaniously on one screen 4 i would reccomend console, due to being able to use gps while running as well as most folks use scanning while searching for fish unless you drop shot alot. 5 would need to be transom mount and low on transom to keep water contact for imaging transducer. Especially on older gen 2 units. The gen 3 have a new single transducer that handles everything and can be mounted to troll motor with minimal interference as i understand it. After a second unit is mounted they should be able to share info, waypoints, and both do imaging with the appropriate ethernet cables connected to each.

I have tried many others but the origional yamamoto is still the best. What i do though is keep the ones i tear up fishing in a pile. At end of day i use mend-it and repair them. I then use the repaired ones first. Its the best way ive found to save on them.

I have both the president and supreme from pflueger and really love my supremes. The presidents are probably best reel for money out there, but my supremes are just smoother to me.

Ive been very pleased with seaguar blue label. Its usually $8 or so for 25yds on amazon, but occasionally less depending on #test. It is stiff soo you have to watch it if it bends hard but has held up well to abrasion for me. I use an albright to the braid and the "shaw grigsby youtube" knot to hook. I used to use remaining end of spools of regular flouro for leaders but after trying the actual leader material i can tell a diffrence.

I made one for my small flat bottom out of a galvanized ground rod. Put in my vise and drilled through close to end and put a 2" split ring. Its not fancy but it works. Less than $20 in it too. Its not the lightest but when staking out i just drop it and let the weight work for me instead of trying to drive it in.

I like a rattling crank in really dirty water especially and also in spring in craw colors. Other than that i jave no preference til fall/winter when i go to mostly shad raps. I prefer the thinner small profile more. As far as braid vs flouro i always use flouro on cranks and will not use braid. Flouro just holds up better to abrasion for me throwing into junk and riprap, i prefer the stretch to slow down hookset for treble lures, and also its sinking ability. I usualy use either straight floro or braid with a flouro leader on slow lures like senko, worms, and jigs. I have gone to striaght braid on them before after breaking off or retying leader due to abrasion and noticed a drop off at times in bites. Even in the dingy coosa waters i fish mainly. In clearer waters im sure it makes a bigger diffrence.

I tried the skip gap and liked them for lizards and creatures. It was just a pain zigging worm through the bends and i often ripped it on softer plastics. What i found works better for me is to simply buy keeper springs that go on any hook. They are cheaper than dedicated spring hooks and take up less room in my hook box than keeping diffrent size specialty hooks when i can just use them with any of my regular stocked hooks.

I usually use a 2/0 gammy that comes with short peice of tubing. On spinner/chatterbaits i place tubing over stinger hook eye and then hook onto lure. On buzzbaits i put hook on lure then tubing so it swings and hangs a touch lower. Its just a personal preference to me. I feel i have better results this way.

Bobber witha wacky senko on 2-4' of line depth. Works really well at times in a pond i fish when the bass suspend a few feet below surface. I just pop it along like working a crappie jig. Tried it one day when i was missed a few fish because i had too much slack out on a slow bite day. The few bites i had were hitting it quickly after it hit water but i had slack out to let it drop 10' to bottom. It was a slow day so i figured why not. Also found it works well around brush to keep it around brush top with out falling in to deep and losing fish that wrap line around limbs.

I have a pair of supremes on a dobyns champ 683 exclusivly for senkos, another on a bionic blade ml-f for drop shot Also have 2 presidents for my wife on ethos rods from acadamy. Suprisingly great rods for price.

I have around 15 and slowly getting more. I normall have all of them in boat when i go out, but only keep 6-7 out. If i want to get out a diffrent one, i put another one up in locker. If i go with someone else in their boat i try and only take 5. I try and find out the proposed game plan and bring versatile rigs and others accordingly with gameplan, ie if we are ledge fishing i bring my deep crank rod not my senko rod or vice versa. The advantage to having more combos is the fact that you have more lures prerigged and dont spend as much water time retieing or changing baits. Allows you also to have more dedicated use rods for one particular use mainly. Disadvantage is obvious costs of more combos and storage issues.

I have the digital rapala tourny scale. I have checked it against my certified scales i use for work and its been with in 1-2 1/100ths of an oz on everything i checked on both.

X3. I switch my spinning,reels,to right side as well. Another thing to consider is the abundance and variety of righty reels vs lefty. More lefty choices than ever before but nothing like righty. Most companies have 4+ offerings in diffrent speeds per model in righty, but only 1 or 2 in lefty.

My favorite crank rod right now is a 7' med-mod ethos from acadamy for $59. Ive had good luck with it. Fishes way better than its price point. I dont putas much money into my crank rods like i do bottom contact where sensitivity is so important. Another thing on cranks is how you set the hook. Yanking back is bad. You want a slower sweeping motion. My hookup rate improved greatly after i learned to do this.

Im guessing this is a spinning setup? I cant speak on the diawa, but i have 2 supremes (30 size) and would not hesitate for a second to go get more. Silky smooth.

I have it on 2 spinning reels, in 15# and 20# and love it. Its smooth and quiet, casts great. I got a few wind knots at first but it was my fault for filling spool up a bit too far. Stripped a bit off and never a problem since.

I have that rod in the avid line and its my standard tex rig setup. Use it for 3/16-3/8 oz weights normally. I really like it for worms. Very sensitive but loads up quick.

What is the weight range of the rod as well? Is its top range below the weight of the crank?

I have a 7' med-mod from acadamy i have been very pleased with, especially for the price. Reg retail $59 but can be had for less on sale.

Dont rule out a paca crawl either on shakey heads. Its one of my favorites. Makes the flippers stand up and wave.

X2 for siebert. Great prices and beautiful jigs with great prices too. Some of it is on sale for fathers day too there. Ive got an ordsr in for some more extreme jigs and tungsten weights myself.

im mixed. When i fish a buddys pond i prefer to be alone. I just plug in my headphones (drowns out 4lane hwy nearby) and forget the rest of the world exists. In the boat i am ok fishing alone but usually prefer someone else to help with loading, unloading, as well as ifi get hung up or a fish on to control boat. At the same time i also really enjoy fishing with folks better than me. Its how i learn about diffrent techniques, lures, etc.