junyer357

Yep. 7", 10", and 12". Its the basic staple of tex rig for me.

I use one at times. If the visibilty is over a foot or so, or if fishing rocky or other areas that cut braid to shreds. I much rather prefer not using a leader if at all possible. Its one less knot and failure point. When i do, its going on powerpro slick 8 in either 15# or 20#. For leaders i use seaguar blue label leader material. I use an improved albright knot but am learning the fg knot and using it more. I found the true leader material to work much better than regular flouro. Its more resistant to abraision and very stiff.

I pick mine up at siebert when i order my tungsten. They have 2 sizes as well, one for smaller or larger weights. Best of all they work very well for less than 1/2 the price of the 6th sense ones. If you plan to punch check them out. Better prices on tungsten as well and they will also wire tie skirts as standalone punch skirts or onto a skirted punch weight, and still beat tw and acadamy on prices.

Haha. This is actually my 2nd champion. I also have a 683sf i use for senkos. Its one of the 3 rods i use most currently. I have loved it from the first time i used it.

I went ahead and ordered the 765. I feel its the better choice for what i want. I only plan to punch a very few times a year.

She needs them. 2nd time was after i had swapped trebles too. 2/0 kvd trebles are not cheap or the easiest to snip. Especially with a cat going nuts throwing claws and teeth at you.

I use pflueger 3000 size reels with braid exclusively. I do not use backing, ever. I willl run a flouro leader (seaguar blue label) at times depending on water clarity or if im drop shotting. I use powerpro slick 8 in 15# and this is my 3rd year on it with zero problems with line twist or issues. I do on occasion get dig in, after a fish or hang up since my main use is senkos, but a quick cast and wind back with tension cures it too.

Well looks like i am the guinea pig. Ordered some in all 3 sizes last week from tw. Arrived yesterday and first impressions are good. Really are easy to open and drop lure in. Hardest part was attaching clip to sacks, but it was not bad at all. I liked that they each came with 2 clip sizes since rods vary. I do reccomend the large for 8/10xd cranks. They will go in a med but not as well if you upsize hooks like me. Med works better on meduim divers, spooks, etc..., and small is good for 1.5, pop-r, and so on. Will definitly know more soon. Wanted them mainly to keep treble hook lures at bay in storage. Hopefully these will eliminate treble hooks in my rod sleeves and boat carpet. Not something i would use for lures on deck, just in rod locker or in house. Really tired of not being able to bring rods in house since my wifes cat thinks a 10xd looks like a fun toy, hooking itself twice now, both trebles each time.

Ive been using sniper for 2 years, this year will be the 3rd now for my worm and jig rods. Ive been very pleased with it. I tried and liked tatsu better, but its not that much better for the cost. Good resistance to abrasion, lower memory (i use kvd line n lure religiously), and good sensitivity. For cranking i prefer abrasx and invisx for spinner and chatter baits.

Yea 90% of the time i plan to flip/pitch with it but i would like to punch on occasion as well with weights up to 1.5. Punching would be on my annual trip to eufaula mainly, and not full time then. Its just not in the budget to get another rod n reel right now just to punch a few days a year.

Im looking at a new to me dobyns champion flipping rod. Leaning torward the 765 flip, to be used mainly for flipping and pitching into cover, 1/4-3/4 weights normally I do also plan to punch with it up to 1.5oz weights a few times a year when i fish in eufaula, al. Im just wondering if i will be ok with it or if i need to step up to the 766 instead. Not really interested in diffrent rods other than these 2 mentioned.

15lb power pro slick 8 yellow. Seaguar blue label leader if visibility is over 1ft or using a drop shot. Visibility under 1ft its straight braid. No backing. Ever. On any reel for me. Braid just lasts longer with minimal twist if spooled correctly. The yellow color helps me line watch for subtle bites, especially on the fall with a senko.

I prefer mine to cover the first eye but stop a foot or so ahead of reel seat to keep tangles with hooks down. I prefer the colored nylon ones. When i reach in rod box i want to find what im looking for quick, so each color is a diffrent technique, ie... blue is crankbaits, green is frog, orange for jigs and so on.

With the hds you can also share imaging, waypoints, gps atennas, sonar, and more.

I would go with the hds series. The elite and ti series are great stand alone units, but since you want front and rear units, the ability to link units together to share waypoints and other info will be great help.

It comes to personal preference. I can speed up when needed easier than i can slow down my retreive speeds. For me its 6.3 most cranks, wirebaits, chatterbaits, and moving baits in general 5:1 deep cranks, slow rolling buzzbaits 7:1 bottom contact baits to keep slack picked up for max sensitivity 8:1 flipping, punching, and times i need to move fish quickly out of slop.

Hmm. Im trying to decide myself between the okuma mat daddy now and the new dobyns fury 805 for punching and flipping.

Any one have experience with these? Looks interesting to me, espcially for cranks and lures with trebles. They are the biggest offenders of sticking in carpet and rod gloves for me.

I have a 7' med-mod blue ethos rod from acadamy i am extremely pleased with, especially for $59. Very light but good backbone and casts and loads well. Its my main cranking rod i use now til its time to get deep.

Boomerang or small swiss army knife sissors for me to cut line. I keep a few sets of needlenose pliers handy, preferably 8" with a thin profile. I also have a set of klein long handle side cutters for cutting hooks. Tested them out on an bad (missing 3rd hook) 2/0 kvd treble (1x strong 2x short) and it snapped it off quickly. Only other tools fishing specific are a wacky o-ring tool, eye buster for painted eyes, regular sissors, and some "thinning" sissors for trimming up jig skirts.

On the heads i just use nail polish myself. Holds up well and can be touched up on the water with a short dry time if need be. I have changed colors on the water before.

I am beginning to switch to all daiwa reels for baitcasters and have been using pflueger exclusivly for spinning reels. Its more of a comfort and familiarity to me, so that no matter what rod i pick up the reel feels and casts the same. There isnt as much of a diffrence between them and im not having to remember diffrent features are. For rods im a bit more open having st croix, dobyns, and denali i use regularly. Line its powepro slick 8 for braid, suffix seige mono, seaguar floro for cranks and spinnerbaits, sunline shooter on worm amd jig for now but am switching to braid with leader when i get more comfortable and confident with a flouro leader. Lures its more open, depends on quality and price for the most part. All my cranks do get upgraded to mustad kvd hooks, but worms i like mustad ultrapoint or gammy.

For flouro i use the "shaw grigsby knot". Its the one on youtube he shows how to tie. For braid and mono its a trilene knot for me. For leaders its a modified albright but am learning the fg knot currently.

Thats the ticket right there. I did basicly the same thing. I went a few steps further and used a dab of epoxy to bottom of dividers to keep them from coming up. I then wrote in sharpie on the lid the hook sizes and type. I did the same on my weight box. I have about $10 in each one since i used the plano box with more adjustability (#3771). The liner i used came from sears. Its a thin black foam that is sold to line their toolboxes

Only time i pinch the barb down is when fishing senkos or a few finesse tactics. I have had too many hooked deep before i realized i had a fish. Im much better now about line watching (yellow braid helps) and its less of a problem but i still prefer it barbless.