junyer357

I had no problems hitting 20+ last year with 8 and 10xd's. I throw them on a 7'10" enigma rod with a tatula 5:1 with 12# flouro. I have picked up a few deep arashi and other deep cranks to try this year recently.

I normally use an ewg on most craws due to their diameter. 4/0 usually but will go up or down in size depending on length of lure. I prefer to throw them on a weighted hook though. Either a light shakeyhead for a slower bite or a weighted hook for swimming them.

I may have to pick up the 805 flip/punch when they hit the shelves.

Megastrike cavitrons or picasso dinnerbell

Picasso and war eagle if i buy retail ones. My favorite are made by a fishing buddy. He uses lighter wire so it vibrates more. Downside is it often needs bending back to shape after a good fish but its worth it to me. They have been better producers for me.

I use 8#or 10# on my UL spinning rigs for panfish and crappie. I get better distance and less problems with line twist with it over mono. For bass i use 15# and higher. I jave 15# on my dropshot rod and 20# on my senko rod. On baitcasters i prefer 30# or bigger due to problems digging in.

I also prefer to run an upgraded hook. I use the mustad tg76's (kvd 2x short 1x strong) so u can upsize one size on most of my cranks. 90% of the ones i use are #2 and #4 and i buy them in bulk at captain hooks wharehouse. I think it was $60 for 100 each #2 and #4 and shipping when i restocked last month.

Im a firm supporter of the texas tackle split ring pliers. I had been using a cheap pair with the point onthe end. Wife bought me the texas tackle ones for my birthday and i havent looked back. Well worth it, especially if you are like me and upgrade the stock hooks and change the line tie to an oval ring.

I agree with a-jay. I do it for most all of my cranks. Its a confidence thing for me. I like being able to go up a size (from a stock #4 to a #2 short shank) on my hooks without tangling them up. I feel like its helped hook and land more fish for me.

A few times a year. I actually did that with my groomsmen for my bachelor trip. Catching red eye bass, crappie, bream, and an occasional largemouth. Its fun to go back and simplify, going from a boat with thousands of lures to wading with a backpack cooler, 1 rod, and a handful of lures.

It worries me simply because they are already 2 of the highest priced places to get gear, or at least what i have seen. Its very rare i buy anything from either due to this. Their sale prices are usually ok but in line with other places (acadamy) regular prices. The lack of comptetition between them will be very bad for us as consumer. Fishing prices are already outrageous and only going up as it is.

You are really close now to guntersville especially, but also wheeler, and pickwick. As,well as neely henry and weiss for coosa spots. If you venture to weiss just be careful though. Its a spread out but shallow lake with an average depth of around 5ft.

I now use tungsten exclusivly by choice. I prefer the smalller size. I normally use anywhere from 1/8 to 1/2 for most things, 3/16 being my goto for most worms. I order mine from siebert and its never let me down, and prices are better. Yes i can feel the bottom with lead, but with tungsten i can feel it better. Ive never had a problem with tungsten crimping onto or cutting my line if i hit a seawall or rocks with it on my cast compared to lead. Tungsten lasts longer to me. Each lead weight is normally good for 1 or 2 outings at most, before its to beat out of shape or the line tunnel is closed up.

I fish a farm pond regularly as well and find them holding tight to either the bank or other structure. Senkos, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, jigs, worms and topwater have all worked for me well. I have caught 1lb fish on a 10" worm and a near 7lb bass on a minnow with a transformers kids rod in that pond. That fish was nearly as long as the rod !! There is no real guarantee on any lure of results for size.

I prefer abrazx on cranks and invisx for wire baits except buzzbaits. The abrazx just seems to hold up better on rocks for me when cranking. For worms and jigs i step up to sunline shooter, sniper, or tatsu. Its worth the costs to me for contact baits. For leaders i used to use end of spools on my other flouro, but now i exclusively use actual leader material, seaguar blue label.its simply stiffer, tougher, and better for leaders.

Its an addicting hobby. Alot of it is subjective and changes with each person to suit their needs. A great place to start is some of the lure making specific forums as well. I personally use an iwata eclipse hp-cs airbrush. Its great all around performer, with an excellent reputation, but not bank breaking price. Has a .35 nozzle/needle and its a good size to do base colors as well as ability to do fine lines. I used my pancake style air compressor i already had for running nail guns. My set up for it is to run it (outside) at 60 psi working pressure to a second regulator i could adjust as needed to actual painting pressure. I normally spray between 18-35 psi, depending on what paint im using. I mostly spray waterborn auto air paints, but have also used true automotive urethane paints like house of kolor. I would reccomend starting on either auto air or createx paints. The urethane paints have amazing colors and spray superbly, but are very dangerous, requiring good organic vapor respirator masks, and exhaust venting to remove fumes. I would not reccomend them. Color wise, start with a white opaque or sealer, the reducer made for your choice paint, and then transparent paints of your choice. Every lure gets a white basecoat to brighten the layers up than come over it. Add a touch of paint and a drop or so of reducer, the paint should be roughly the consistency of milk for spraying. I picked up a bunch of the little plastic communion cups to mix my paint in myself. They are cheap, clear so i can see paint colors well, and disposable. Diffrent things help make diffrent patterns on lures, such as netting or bridal veil material makes a good scale pattern. After that just practice. Alot. Its the only real way to really get a feel for how to get paint consistency for spraying and contol of airbrush to get patterns you want.

I will stick with regular avids. I do not like micro eyes. Cant use a leader and will also freeze up quick in cold weather.

6:1 for regular cranking. 5:1 for deep cranks. One more thing to consider is if you plan to fish at all in freezing temps micro eyes will freeze up on you big time. You will be dunking rod in water to thaw eyes out every few casts. Happened to me in feb a few years back and have not used a micro eye rod since, nor will i ever again.

I think it would be very hot, as well as fade out fast in the sun.

I ususally just have mine made by a coworker and have him leave a few peices of skirting extra long to help hide the stinger hook. Its the only trailer i use on a spinnerbait.

I have 2 supremes and a president my wife uses. I agree with the others that the supremes are lighter. Thats the main thing for me. It makes a diffrence, especially if its what you are using all day long. I also like the increased speed since the 2 i have are used on my dropshot and senko rods.

I have the enigma aarons edge in 7'11" with lews lfs 5.4:1 as my dedicated deep setup. Ive been very pleased with it. Its not an overly expensive combo but it works nicely. Main knock people have on the rod is its looks. Many wont try them since they onsider them "ugly" but i personally care more about its action and price than looks.

I have the frogg toggs toadz bibs and jacket and love them. They are unlined so i bought them a size too big so i can layer underneath for colder conditions. Have held up well for several years now. Never had a problem with seams and blocks wind great, even at speed in boat. If its just a windy day or a cool morning i have a columbia windproof jacket i wear, even if its just for riding down lake. Its not water proof but its been proven windproof to me with 65 mph boat speeds. One more thing that is overlooked is footwear too. If my feet get wet or cold its over, no matter the rainsuit or layers. My muckboots have not let me down yet and are very comfortable to wear all day too.

I have a white boat with light grey carpet now. To me it is often less glare than some darker ones die to the amount of flake in them compared to gelcoat. I also have on sunglasses unless it is actually dark out too so glare has never been a big issue. I have looked at triton and,fished out of a few. Its about 2nd or 3rd on my list. A ranger 520 is the top boat i want, with a yamaha or merc. I just like the size and layout on them. Only real complaints i hear on them is cost and they are slower. Im not a speed demon so speed isnt an issue. Cost is, but im also buying an older used boat if i get one too. I was just really suprised that most i have seen for sale have been darker colors, lots of burgandy, dark grey, black, and such.

I have been toying with the idea of a newer and biggger boat. Well actually i want one, i just cant convince wife yet. In my searching though i have been really dissapointed in the new trend of dark colored boats. Seems now if you want a white boat you almost have to special order it. I really like my white boat i have now. Its just cooler in the alabama sun. I have fished with others who have darker boats and you can really feel the heat if you put a hand or knee on it compared to my white. Is there some kind of biological, not marketing science behind this? I mean the colors would not matter on a pro's boat since the are all ugly from the wraps anyway.